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M5OD HELP w/ videos


facemaze

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Your best option, in my opinion, is to look up what axle ratio you have now and then buy the whole axle assembly from a wrecking yard

On back edge of drivers door is your build label
Under AXLE will be a 2 digit code, then look it up here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

You can use either a 7.5'' or 8.8" axle, they both bolt in the same way and use the same drive shaft

Upgrading to a L/S(limited slip) would be a nice upgrade, again no external changes needed OPEN or L/S just bolt in

Contrary to what's happened to yours, the 7.5" and 8.8" Ranger axles is a pretty safe buy used

car-part.com is a good place to search your area

Looking for "rear axle assy(RWD)"

1993 to 2009 7.5" or 8.8" rear axle assembly from a Ranger or Mazda B-series, will work your 2001 Ranger
Obviously, later years should have lower miles on them
You can use 9" or 10" brakes
Look at your rear brake drums, if you see fins then they are 9", if the drums are smooth on the outside then they are 10"
Can I use the Same axles I have now?
 


Roert42

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facemaze

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If you get another 7.5”. Not going to work in a 8.8”
Right, thank you.

Could I ask your reasoning for not just replacing the spider gears?
 

Roert42

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Right, thank you.

Could I ask your reasoning for not just replacing the spider gears?
You will have to ask RonD,

I said if everything else looks good I would clean it up and replace the spider gears.
 

ericbphoto

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Right, thank you.

Could I ask your reasoning for not just replacing the spider gears?
You probably could if you can find some. Should probably replace the side gears, also. The crumbling spider gears could have damaged the side gears. Have you found any reason why the cross pin backed out?
 

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This is the whole assembly: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/8_8-ranger.JPG

You take you out yours and bolt "new" one to the leaf springs, shocks and drive shaft
Hook up brake lines and E-brake cables
So no special tools or knowledge is involved
Just bolt it in and add wheels, lol


Yes, you could try and replace broken parts in yours
But you would need to KNOW, for sure, why it failed
And as ericbphoto said you need to inspect the other gears, and parts for damage cause by the metal debris

Also pull the axles and check them closely, need to be straight and not twisted
Rebuilding a differential requires some special knowledge, but always fun to learn new things, loads of videos and how-to's, so have a look and see if its something you would like to learn

Yes, any 4.10 with 10" brakes from Ranger or Mazda B-series 1993 to 2009 will use the same axle assembly you have
7.5" or 8.8" doesn't matter for your 4cyl engine, what ever you can get the best deal on
As said L/S would be a nice upgrade
 
Last edited:

ericbphoto

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He may have had LS to begin with. Don't I see the funky wavy spring in the center of that carrier in his photo?
 

facemaze

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He may have had LS to begin with. Don't I see the funky wavy spring in the center of that carrier in his photo?
I cant be 100% but i think i feel a wavy thing in there too. axle code on my door is 87 tho.
 

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This is the whole assembly: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/8_8-ranger.JPG

You take you out yours and bolt "new" one to the leaf springs, shocks and drive shaft
Hook up brake lines and E-brake cables
So no special tools or knowledge is involved
Just bolt it in and add wheels, lol


Yes, you could try and replace broken parts in yours
But you would need to KNOW, for sure, why it failed
And as ericbphoto said you need to inspect the other gears, and parts for damage cause by the metal debris

Also pull the axles and check them closely, need to be straight and not twisted
Rebuilding a differential requires some special knowledge, but always fun to learn new things, loads of videos and how-to's, so have a look and see if its something you would like to learn

Yes, any 4.10 with 10" brakes from Ranger or Mazda B-series 1993 to 2009 will use the same axle assembly you have
7.5" or 8.8" doesn't matter for your 4cyl engine, what ever you can get the best deal on
As said L/S would be a nice upgrade
Thanks mang.

Youre right. just thought I could save some dough.

Its off to the pick a part junkyard.

Got any tips for what to look for or advice?

I hope to just upgrade to an 8.8 with 10" drums.
 

RonD

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wiggle the axles to see if bearings are OK, and take out the VSS/ABS sensor, I think it needs a 3/8" or 10mm socket??

With sensor out smell the hole and/or sensor end, burnt smell would be a "no sale"
Replace sensor or oil will come out in transport

Turn the drive shaft yolk, should not be any play or signs of leaking oil around that shaft, or axle shafts

I would change the oil when you get home, and before putting it in, its just easier
 

facemaze

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wiggle the axles to see if bearings are OK, and take out the VSS/ABS sensor, I think it needs a 3/8" or 10mm socket??

With sensor out smell the hole and/or sensor end, burnt smell would be a "no sale"
Replace sensor or oil will come out in transport

Turn the drive shaft yolk, should not be any play or signs of leaking oil around that shaft, or axle shafts

I would change the oil when you get home, and before putting it in, its just easier
Sweeeeeet.

Im having trouble figuring out which L/S axle code would be ideal for me. K6 or R7.
 

facemaze

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wiggle the axles to see if bearings are OK, and take out the VSS/ABS sensor, I think it needs a 3/8" or 10mm socket??

With sensor out smell the hole and/or sensor end, burnt smell would be a "no sale"
Replace sensor or oil will come out in transport

Turn the drive shaft yolk, should not be any play or signs of leaking oil around that shaft, or axle shafts

I would change the oil when you get home, and before putting it in, its just easier
Also my drum breaks are a year and a half old. I can remount those on the new 10 inch plates yes?

And I would just measure diameter at a junk yard?
 

RonD

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Yes, you can move your newer brakes over, and yes measure the back place to confirm 10", you can measure yours now from axle tube to the edge of the plate on bottom side, to make it easier, hard to measure full diameter on installed back plate
 

facemaze

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Yes, you can move your newer brakes over, and yes measure the back place to confirm 10", you can measure yours now from axle tube to the edge of the plate on bottom side, to make it easier, hard to measure full diameter on installed back plate
any thoughts on an L/S axle code would be ideal for me. K6 or R7.
 

Shran

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Hey there's a problem!

If you don't have any teeth missing or damaged on the ring & pinion, I'd be very tempted to just put new side and spider gears in plus a new pin if needed... my guess is the pin bolt broke or loosened up and fell out, this was actually kind of a common thing and there used to be a lot of threads about people running into broken bolts. Check the carrier and make sure the cross pin holes aren't egged out though!

Just have to see how chewed up everything is... a junkyard axle is an extreme solution if you can get away with just replacing a couple parts in yours.
 

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