I'm calling it "Low-C"

[ForgedCrank]

You're obviously a DIY guy, I'm sure that's why @RobbieD and I chimed in. Please any HVAC guys on here don't take offense, but A/C is mostly just physics and plumbing. Oof I know that might be controversial. I'm pretty sure a vacuum pump on Amazon is like $100US. Gauges are probably $50.
Assuming your system is clean and no shrapnel in it, you just need enough oil to lubricate the compressor, pull a vacuum, make sure there are no leaks, then put the right amount of gas in it. It's just basic science, not rocket science.

Yea I was just looking at that. Wow. Those pumps used to be megga-bucks. Now they are $100~. One thing I insist on is a good set of gauges though. I've had some infuriating experiences with those chinese amazon test kits. The gauges ALWAYS fall apart after you use them a couple of times and who knows if they are even remotely accurate. If someone has suggestions that aren't Mac or Snap-On prices, I'd love to hear it.
I'm under-selling myself a bit on the AC understanding. I know how it works, it's a rather simple concept. I just lack detailed knowledge, all stuff I can probably learn pretty quickly as there isn't a lot to it really. And yea, this system is clean, it's all brand new except the evap core and that was because the new one I bought was a hunk of junk and I didn't trust it. The old system had leaked down to almost zero (it still had a little pressure in it, just not a lot), but everything was clean and the old orifice tube still looked brand new, wasn't a speck of anything on the screens. I've kept everything sealed from atmosphere except for the short time installing it, so it should be in decent shape overall with minimal moisture. One thing I'm confused about is oil. The compressor supposedly came pre-oiled, but 1) I don't know if I can trust that and 2) how much total the system is supposed to have in it. I assume I can find that in the Ford shop manual if I look hard enough though. I don't have a $5K dollar recovery unit to pull it out and measure what is in there already.

 

[RobbieD]

2) how much total the system is supposed to have in it. I assume I can find that in the Ford shop manual

The shop manual even breaks it down to how much oil to add for each replaced component. The unknown will be how much was put in the compressor; maybe you can reach out to the vendor.

 

[pentode]

I hope someone jumps in to correct me, but this is a system (and a pump) where you don't want to be trying to pump liquid (liquid anything, oil or otherwise). So the oil is very light and sort of flows through the whole system all the time.
If you can dump the lowest point of the system out, you should be good adding whatever the manual says.
I think that's what the manual talks about "depending on which components you remove" because the oil sort of coats the whole system (possibly with a bit more in the compressor). HVAC people please school me up.

 

[ForgedCrank]

how much oil to add for each replaced component.

Ah ok, that was the biggest question I had, now I understand.
I know how much is in the pump, it had a label over the main connections that you have to remove when you hook it up and I saved that and stuck on on the pump so the shop would know. So now I just need to subtract that from the total and add whatever is missing before I pump it down. I've read that you need to spread it out in more than one spot when you add it as well to distribute it for some reason, so I'll have to pop the connectors again but no huge deal, they are easy enough to get to.

 

[RobbieD]

Gimme a sec and I'll post that paragraph.

Edit
1994 manual pages (both R12 and R134a is covered- changeover year). The factory manual actually explains it pretty good.

 

[mtnrgr]

You have done a great job with this ranger, and the 2.3 will be a great engine for you after all the work that has been done. Those early 2.3 were not that great on power, yet they will last forever. When your using the ac it will be more gutless going up hills. Don't be to mad when you accelerate and it's slow to respond. It is the nature of the engine..this is ford built engines to last, more quality than quantity. Personally I love these older 2.3 engines.

You are installing a cluster with a tachometer into your ranger..what year explorer did it come from? Instead of rolling the mileage back, use the rangers current speedometer and no messing with the mileage. These 89-94 instrument clusters are easy to remove and take apart. Put the rangers speedometer in the one from the explorer and your good to go.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Gimme a sec and I'll post that paragraph.

Edit
1994 manual pages (both R12 and R134a is covered- changeover year). The factory manual actually explains it pretty good.

haha... I was just looking at that exact page. It says 7oz total for the entire system.
thanks man!

 

[ForgedCrank]

You have done a great job with this ranger, and the 2.3 will be a great engine for you after all the work that has been done. Those early 2.3 were not that great on power, yet they will last forever. When your using the ac it will be more gutless going up hills. Don't be to mad when you accelerate and it's slow to respond. It is the nature of the engine..this is ford built engines to last, more quality than quantity. Personally I love these older 2.3 engines.

You are installing a cluster with a tachometer into your ranger..what year explorer did it come from? Instead of rolling the mileage back, use the rangers current speedometer and no messing with the mileage. These 89-94 instrument clusters are easy to remove and take apart. Put the rangers speedometer in the one from the explorer and your good to go.

Ah, I hadn't considered doing that (I'm a bit slow sometimes). I'll have to figure out how to take it apart anyway. The plastic cover on the boneyard one has a small crack in it so I need to transfer that over anyway. That'll be easier than figuring out how to disassemble that entire mini-transmission on the odometer digits.
The one I got came out of a '94 Explorer, same year as mine. Someone in the forum from an old post said it would plug-n-play so I have my fingers crossed.

 

[mtnrgr]

It will be plug right in as it's the same year, 89-92 were different from 93-94. The 4.0 has a 5000 redline, and the 2.3 is 5500. Any questions about removal and reinstall ask away.

 

[ForgedCrank]

The shop manual even breaks it down to how much oil to add for each replaced component. The unknown will be how much was put in the compressor; maybe you can reach out to the vendor.

I was just reading the sheets from the new compressor and it conflicts. The detached sheet says to dump all the oil out of the compressor that it shipped with so I'm just going to do that and start over, then I'll know absolutely that I have the exact amount required and don't' wind up over/under filling the thing.

 

[RobbieD]

Yep, you're right on track. I bet that you'll have breeze in no time, without paying a shop.

haha... I was just looking at that exact page.

Sick minds think alike.

 

[ForgedCrank]

It will be plug right in as it's the same year, 89-92 were different from 93-94. The 4.0 has a 5000 redline, and the 2.3 is 5500. Any questions about removal and reinstall ask away.

Will do, I appreciate that a lot. I did see a couple YT videos and it looks pretty simple, just appears to be a PITA to get the speedo cable off so that will probably cost me a couple more scars trying to get back in there. I have large hands so this stuff is a challenge for me sometimes. I'd post pictures of my arms after fighting those radiator shroud clips, but they probably don't allow gore here so I'll refrain.
I really don't care about the redline, I just wanted a tach because, well... cuz it's more awesome. I don't know this thing can breathe well enough to hit the redline anyway. heh

 

[scotts90ranger]

It will be plug right in as it's the same year, 89-92 were different from 93-94. The 4.0 has a 5000 redline, and the 2.3 is 5500. Any questions about removal and reinstall ask away.

The break year is mid '92 annoyingly for the cluster but yes, simple swap, other than '92 year for year should be a solid simple swap, hardest part is reaching behind the cluster to unhook the speedo cable since there isn't much room...

With the explorer cluster, I don't remember on the 4L's if they had 6k tach's but didn't use the whole thing or not, been many years...

On the clutch, that's the nature of the beast, all the action is near the top from day one until the day before it slips... Once you get the tach cluster in just keep the revs above 2500 for any throttle response, they wake up above 3k and get ok before the 6k rev limit but they get thirstier up above 4k, I try to cruise between 2-3k, works decent for me... I've only ever driven '90 and newer 4 cylinder Rangers which were 90+ hp, I can't really imagine a 70hp 2L in modern traffic with the 3.08 gears Ford liked using in the '80's...

Like I said, rev limiter is 6k, it'll live there all day, they're a bit lean up there but not enough to hurt anything... out in the sand dunes my turbo 2.3 in my '90 lives at 4-6k...

 

[RobbieD]

just appears to be a PITA to get the speedo cable off

Take the dash bezel off, remove the cluster mounting screws. Then crawl under the truck, and unhook the speedo cable from the retainer clip (either frame or underbody; I forget; damn CRS) and push the cable from the outside to the inside through the grommet. It should go a couple inches, and the cluster has now moved out a little. Now you got more room to get that piece of hamburger known as a hand behind the cluster. Feel for the square bump on the round cable end and push it in; the cable should pop out of the cluster. Now squeeze the end tabs on the two electrical connectors and you're there.

Novels are always better than movies . . .

 

[scotts90ranger]

Now that's a simple idea, all it takes is one bolt at the transmission! I think 3/8" or 7/16" if I remember right...