I'm calling it "Low-C"

[RobbieD]

Now that's a simple idea, all it takes is one bolt at the transmission! I think 3/8" or 7/16" if I remember right...

You can get a couple of inches of slack on the speedo cable by just unclipping it from a retainer clip underneath; that's all you need. If the wiring connectors are not plugged in, pushing too much speedo cable into the cab will push the cluster into the steering wheel or even into the seat (no comment, on how I know this).

 

[ForgedCrank]

Take the dash bezel off, remove the cluster mounting screws. Then crawl under the truck, and unhook the speedo cable from the retainer clip (either frame or underbody; I forget; damn CRS) and push the cable from the outside to the inside through the grommet. It should go a couple inches, and the cluster has now moved out a little. Now you got more room to get that piece of hamburger known as a hand behind the cluster. Feel for the square bump on the round cable end and push it in; the cable should pop out of the cluster. Now squeeze the end tabs on the two electrical connectors and you're there.

Novels are always better than movies . . .

I'm going to use that.
After I put another 10-20 miles or so on this, I'm getting under there to dump the oil anyway so I'll do it at the same time. I don't want to run it on this first fill oil for very long, who knows how much I contaminated this thing working on it.
Anyway, thats the new plan, thanks for the tip. I would have probably just fought it for 6 hours, cussed a lot, and went through an entire roll of gauze when it was over with.

 

[mtnrgr]

To remove the cluster it's easier to take it apart than taking it out as one unit. Once dash bezel is removed, remove all screws that hold the clear piece on, then remove the black plastic piece. You can pull out the gauges, then pull slowly on the speedometer. Behind the speedometer there is the cable clip push on it and speedometer comes right out. Remove all screws that hold in the cluster housing, gently pull on each side to reach behind to disconnect both plugs one per side. Reinstall is reverse of removal.

I have found it easier this way as pulling the entire cluster out with the steering wheel is a pain. My hands are also big, I found ways to make it easier instead of struggling with it. The 89-94 dash style is better looking with a tach than no tach. The 3.0 ranger also had a 5500 redline.

Here is mine

 

[ForgedCrank]

With the explorer cluster, I don't remember on the 4L's if they had 6k tach's but didn't use the whole thing or not, been many years...

I don't know if they are all the same but this one is a 6K dial

 

[mtnrgr]

That's correct for 94. All 89-94 tachometer are 6000. The 2.3, 3.0 are 5500 redline, 4.0 are 5000 redline as you have there. In 1995 and newer ranger tachometers they went to 7000.

Prior of installing this one make sure all bulbs are good.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well I got a bit rambunctious tonight and figured hey, why not at least take the dash apart and start on this tachometer install.
Before I knew it, it was done. Took me about 90 minutes or so, but mainly because I tested every bulb and cleaned every contact with Deoxit D5 while it was apart, plus cleaning everything up real good. Even removing the speedo cable clip underneath, it was very tight. I transferred my original speedo over so I didn't have to jerk around changing the replacement one to match, the gauges pop out of there pretty easy. Got a little bloody, but I got it done. Also, a picture of the speedo cable clip you guys mentioned, no tools required. It's right underneath the driver floorboard about 18 inches from the transmission..

 

[RobbieD]

Nice work!

And thanks for showing the cable retainer clip.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well... here we go.
I bought the cheaper RobinAir gauge set but I was disappointed to see that they look very similar to the cheap-o Amazon ones for less than half the price. Oh well, live and learn I recon. At least RobinAir will actually talk to me if I have a problem with them in the first year.
I dumped all the compressor factory oil, put 3.5oz back in the compressor, and 3.5oz in the low side accumulator. I also added 1/4oz of UV dye just in case so I don't have to waste a charge looking for a slow leak. Got the famed AutoZone vacuum pump loaner. It's only single stage 1.8cfm, but I'm not going to complain about free loaner stuff.
Been running about a half hour so far. I'm probably going to let it evac for at least 2 hours before I try the charge.

 

[RobbieD]

Pulling 30 inches is good; 2 hours would be good too. Longer would be even better- you can't over-vacuum it.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Pulling 30 inches is good; 2 hours would be good too. Longer would be even better- you can't over-vacuum it.

Yea, I can't overstate how happy I was to see that it at least doesn't have any massive leaks.
I'm wondering if I should run it longer than 2 hours though. Right now it's 92F and humidity is 76%. You think 2 hours is sufficient?
I was thinking I would follow a guide I saw in another post... evac for a couple of hours, unhook it all and let it sit overnight, then hook back up tomorrow and see if the vacuum held. Might save me a few cans of 134 just in case.
------------------------
Also to note, as of right now (07-31-2024) Rural King has "National" brand r134a on sale for $7.50/12oz can. Pretty good deal if anyone here is planning on a charge-up in the near future. I think I'm gonna go buy a dozen cans to keep around. I have 9 vehicles so...

 

[RobbieD]

I'm wondering if I should run it longer than 2 hours though. Right now it's 92F and humidity is 76%. You think 2 hours is sufficient?

Two hours would be "sufficient"; but . . .

I was thinking I would follow a guide I saw in another post... evac for a couple of hours, unhook it all and let it sit overnight, then hook back up tomorrow and see if the vacuum held.

That would be mo bettah.

But there's no need to "unhook it all"; just close the hand-valves on the manifold (gauges). When you disconnect a hose you're losing a little vacuum or charge.

When you're ready to call it a day, close the valves, turn off the pump and note the gauge reading (low side vacuum). If overnight, be sure to check the gauge for any change, and you can run the pump and open the valves for more evacuation time.

Repeat the process to charge; valves closed, pump off. Connect the can tap to the yellow hose and loosen and tighten the yellow hose coupling at the manifold to purge the hose (that's why you should avoid disconnecting /reconnecting hoses).

Open the low side valve to charge. Start the engine, AC on max, and it's OK to jumper the low pressure at the beginning to speed things up (otherwise it fast-cycles). Good practice is to only gas charge, and agitating the refrigerant can will help. Stock system, go by the weight charge sticker on the truck, and if I remember correctly the Ford manual has tables for pressure readings based on temp if you want to fly by gauges.

As a side note, when I installed AC in a high-volume shop some 40 years ago, 30 minutes on the vacuum pump was considered as enough.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well, total fail for the night.
This @#%*^&^#$ adapter I got from autozone to mate the charge hose to these freekin "self-sealing" cans failed and blew an entire can of freon off into the ozone. Wasn't much I could do, I didn't have any gloves on and I didn't wanna lose any skin so I just let it fizzle out. Now I don't have enough to finish the job so I'm just going to start over when I get a different adapter and more freon. Good thing Rural King has it on sale, right?
I'm irritated, but I'll get it done. I just can't stand waiting.

 

[RobbieD]

Bummer. Tomorrow will be a better day.

 

[ForgedCrank]

I've been reading all over on how much r134 this thing takes because there is no sticker where I thought it should be. I originally saw someone claim 30oz. Then I saw others say 3 full cans. I couldn't find the weight called for in the shop manual, I could only find the oil quantity required. I'm sure it's in there somewhere, but I couldn't find it.
I finally found the stupid sticker on the truck just now and it says 22oz. I've replaced everything on here with aftermarket stuff, but I'm going to assume the needed capacity is the same. The way I understand it, if it blows cold, it has plenty enough refrigerant. If it's too little refrigerant, it just won't get cold enough, but too much can be a problem. So anyway, I'm going with the 1lb +6oz on the sticker.

And for those who find this search years from now, it's a 1994 Ranger 2.3L manual, 2WD. The sticker is not in the front where the belt routing sticker and stuff is at. It's on the passenger side of the insulated evaporator box on the firewall.
Evac pump has been running now for 2 hours, gonna take another shot at this pretty soon.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Done!
Nice cold air now. Well, except idling at stoplights it drops off a bit.
So far so good, let's see if this chinese compressor holds together long-term or not.
And again, thanks to all you guys for the advice, I probably never would have tried this on my own had I not been challenged.