I'm calling it "Low-C"

[ForgedCrank]

With the explorer cluster, I don't remember on the 4L's if they had 6k tach's but didn't use the whole thing or not, been many years...

I don't know if they are all the same but this one is a 6K dial

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well I got a bit rambunctious tonight and figured hey, why not at least take the dash apart and start on this tachometer install.
Before I knew it, it was done. Took me about 90 minutes or so, but mainly because I tested every bulb and cleaned every contact with Deoxit D5 while it was apart, plus cleaning everything up real good. Even removing the speedo cable clip underneath, it was very tight. I transferred my original speedo over so I didn't have to jerk around changing the replacement one to match, the gauges pop out of there pretty easy. Got a little bloody, but I got it done. Also, a picture of the speedo cable clip you guys mentioned, no tools required. It's right underneath the driver floorboard about 18 inches from the transmission..

 

[RobbieD]

Nice work!

And thanks for showing the cable retainer clip.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well... here we go.
I bought the cheaper RobinAir gauge set but I was disappointed to see that they look very similar to the cheap-o Amazon ones for less than half the price. Oh well, live and learn I recon. At least RobinAir will actually talk to me if I have a problem with them in the first year.
I dumped all the compressor factory oil, put 3.5oz back in the compressor, and 3.5oz in the low side accumulator. I also added 1/4oz of UV dye just in case so I don't have to waste a charge looking for a slow leak. Got the famed AutoZone vacuum pump loaner. It's only single stage 1.8cfm, but I'm not going to complain about free loaner stuff.
Been running about a half hour so far. I'm probably going to let it evac for at least 2 hours before I try the charge.

 

[RobbieD]

Pulling 30 inches is good; 2 hours would be good too. Longer would be even better- you can't over-vacuum it.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Pulling 30 inches is good; 2 hours would be good too. Longer would be even better- you can't over-vacuum it.

Yea, I can't overstate how happy I was to see that it at least doesn't have any massive leaks.
I'm wondering if I should run it longer than 2 hours though. Right now it's 92F and humidity is 76%. You think 2 hours is sufficient?
I was thinking I would follow a guide I saw in another post... evac for a couple of hours, unhook it all and let it sit overnight, then hook back up tomorrow and see if the vacuum held. Might save me a few cans of 134 just in case.
------------------------
Also to note, as of right now (07-31-2024) Rural King has "National" brand r134a on sale for $7.50/12oz can. Pretty good deal if anyone here is planning on a charge-up in the near future. I think I'm gonna go buy a dozen cans to keep around. I have 9 vehicles so...

 

[RobbieD]

I'm wondering if I should run it longer than 2 hours though. Right now it's 92F and humidity is 76%. You think 2 hours is sufficient?

Two hours would be "sufficient"; but . . .

I was thinking I would follow a guide I saw in another post... evac for a couple of hours, unhook it all and let it sit overnight, then hook back up tomorrow and see if the vacuum held.

That would be mo bettah.

But there's no need to "unhook it all"; just close the hand-valves on the manifold (gauges). When you disconnect a hose you're losing a little vacuum or charge.

When you're ready to call it a day, close the valves, turn off the pump and note the gauge reading (low side vacuum). If overnight, be sure to check the gauge for any change, and you can run the pump and open the valves for more evacuation time.

Repeat the process to charge; valves closed, pump off. Connect the can tap to the yellow hose and loosen and tighten the yellow hose coupling at the manifold to purge the hose (that's why you should avoid disconnecting /reconnecting hoses).

Open the low side valve to charge. Start the engine, AC on max, and it's OK to jumper the low pressure at the beginning to speed things up (otherwise it fast-cycles). Good practice is to only gas charge, and agitating the refrigerant can will help. Stock system, go by the weight charge sticker on the truck, and if I remember correctly the Ford manual has tables for pressure readings based on temp if you want to fly by gauges.

As a side note, when I installed AC in a high-volume shop some 40 years ago, 30 minutes on the vacuum pump was considered as enough.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well, total fail for the night.
This @#%*^&^#$ adapter I got from autozone to mate the charge hose to these freekin "self-sealing" cans failed and blew an entire can of freon off into the ozone. Wasn't much I could do, I didn't have any gloves on and I didn't wanna lose any skin so I just let it fizzle out. Now I don't have enough to finish the job so I'm just going to start over when I get a different adapter and more freon. Good thing Rural King has it on sale, right?
I'm irritated, but I'll get it done. I just can't stand waiting.

 

[RobbieD]

Bummer. Tomorrow will be a better day.

 

[ForgedCrank]

I've been reading all over on how much r134 this thing takes because there is no sticker where I thought it should be. I originally saw someone claim 30oz. Then I saw others say 3 full cans. I couldn't find the weight called for in the shop manual, I could only find the oil quantity required. I'm sure it's in there somewhere, but I couldn't find it.
I finally found the stupid sticker on the truck just now and it says 22oz. I've replaced everything on here with aftermarket stuff, but I'm going to assume the needed capacity is the same. The way I understand it, if it blows cold, it has plenty enough refrigerant. If it's too little refrigerant, it just won't get cold enough, but too much can be a problem. So anyway, I'm going with the 1lb +6oz on the sticker.

And for those who find this search years from now, it's a 1994 Ranger 2.3L manual, 2WD. The sticker is not in the front where the belt routing sticker and stuff is at. It's on the passenger side of the insulated evaporator box on the firewall.
Evac pump has been running now for 2 hours, gonna take another shot at this pretty soon.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Done!
Nice cold air now. Well, except idling at stoplights it drops off a bit.
So far so good, let's see if this chinese compressor holds together long-term or not.
And again, thanks to all you guys for the advice, I probably never would have tried this on my own had I not been challenged.

 

[pentode]

Done!
Nice cold air now. Well, except idling at stoplights it drops off a bit.
So far so good, let's see if this chinese compressor holds together long-term or not.
And again, thanks to all you guys for the advice, I probably never would have tried this on my own had I not been challenged.

Well done! I'm sure it's in the realm of normal that it falls off at idle. Mine's probably a fraction low on charge but it really gets max cold once rolling down the road. At idle you're not moving much freon and no air through the condenser so....

 

[ForgedCrank]

Well done! I'm sure it's in the realm of normal that it falls off at idle. Mine's probably a fraction low on charge but it really gets max cold once rolling down the road. At idle you're not moving much freon and no air through the condenser so....

Yea, it appears to be operating pretty normal. The only thing I don't like is the compressor is making a bit of clattering noise. It's very faint, but it's there. Could just be me being paranoid. I'm not normally standing next to the car AC compressor when it's running and paying attention so could be normal for all I know. I'm confident regarding my oil levels and everything, so if it blows, it's because it was faulty... but only time will tell.
Up next: brakes! I'm going to go through them completely to make sure this thing is trip worthy when needed. I have several large plots of land 50 to 75 acres or so each, but they are all about 2 hours away from where I currently live, so I make trips up north to manage that mess... cleaning scrub, running a flail mower where I can, clearing trees where they get out of control, etc. I'd like for this to be my new road beater for those trips once I feel like I can trust it. I have a 4X4 Dakota V8 that I normally take, but that thing isn't very kind when it comes to the gas bill. Plus I'm trying to keep the mileage down on the nicer stuff. I recon maybe tomorrow I'm going to go over to the interstate and get this Ranger wound up to 70+ and make it go 10 or 20 miles to make sure it can survive that. I don't think it's going to be a problem, I've just never had this thing above 45mph yet. Heck, I also don't even know if this thing CAN go 70+ hehe. I am starting to get used to the absent torque and power. It's not all bad once you get the rhythm of it I suppose. The wife has been poking at me because of all these cars around and I'm driving that old Ranger. But I'm really starting to take a liking to the thing. I'm 5' 10", so I'm just the right size for it too. I can see if anyone was much bigger, they might struggle in there, but it fits me like a glove.

 

[RobbieD]

But I'm really starting to take a liking to the thing.

I've noticed that a lot of the "new to the Ranger" guys that land on TRS say things like this. Not knocking all of the other trucks out there, but Ford really nailed it with the Ranger.

I recon maybe tomorrow I'm going to go over to the interstate and get this Ranger wound up to 70+ and make it go 10 or 20 miles to make sure it can survive that.

The way that you've been repairing things, and catching up on maintenance, where needed, this truck will be dependable, and it will last you a long time. 1994 was a great year for these trucks.

The wife has been poking at me because of all these cars around and I'm driving that old Ranger.

Once you get it dialed in right, just let her drive it. Afterward you'll probably have to hide the keys to keep her out of it.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Once you get it dialed in right, just let her drive it. Afterward you'll probably have to hide the keys to keep her out of it.

Hmph... that woman is spoiled rotten. She drives a '21 Corsair. If the car doesn't talk to her, she doesn't want anything to do with it.

Me? I have to say, I'm really starting to dig the stripped down, rude and primitive nature of the old Ranger. It takes me back. I do wish this was a 4wd version though. I'll just have to relegate this one for non-inclement weather use. I can't imagine this thing is useful at all in the snow.
Right now the thing is running like a sewing machine. I've been pondering what I assumed was a low rpm miss. Now that I have a tach I can see that whats really wrong is the thing is just simply idling too low. I have a digital tach (the ones you use with a piece of tape) and I verified the dash tach is accurate. Right now, it idles @ around 500, and that is right on the edge for this thing, so it gets a little lumpy sometimes. To be frank, I'm just going to ignore that and drive it. I'm not going to start swapping modules and everything else trying to figure it out, it runs very good otherwise.