I'm calling it "Low-C"

[ForgedCrank]

They generally had a multicolor accent stripe down the sides with the word Splash in it, also.

I was under the impression based on what I was reading that "Splash" was just a more base level trim or something. I'm not a Ranger connoisseur by any means. I can't remember now where I found that VIN decoder but it was one of these Ranger forums. It doesn't matter to me, this is just going to be a truck.

 

[superj]

Yeah, splash and edge are base models that look cool. The edge came after the splash. I have an edge. Roller windows, manual locks, stepside bed, rubber flooring

Which is everything that makes them perfect

 

[ForgedCrank]

Slowly but surely... and I have to say, that AC/power steering bracket was a real %&*^&)#$#@%$^*&*)
There's a lower bolt on that thing that is a nightmare if you have large hands. I think that one bolt took me half an hour to get out.

It's convenient for me since I work from home. I have a desk and office in my workshop, so I get to take breaks and step outside and work on it a bit during the day as long as I'm not getting harassed by the phone. Been raining a lot so it's a bit slow going, but I should have it pulled this coming weekend. I WAS just going to take the head off and leave the block in there so I didn't have to bust the transmission loose and everything. I dunno, I'm still studying the thing. I may just get all the harnesses and hoses detached and pull the intake off with the head.
I'll probably tackle the timing belt and stuff tomorrow if the rain lets up.

 

[ForgedCrank]

Slow going, lots of rain, overload at work and my mom got into a serious accident and broke her neck (C2 vertebrae so it's pretty serious). Getting started back on this now, still in disassembly mode. Right now I'm stuck on a fuel line disconnect that won't come apart, spent a couple of days fighting it so far. Ordered a different disconnect tool set from Lisle so we'll see if that gets my anywhere today. I did get this awesomeness delivered this past week. Bought from 3 different ebay users, but I'm in for all 3 manuals for 80 bucks.

 

[RobbieD]

Right now I'm stuck on a fuel line disconnect that won't come apart, spent a couple of days fighting it so far. Ordered a different disconnect tool set from Lisle so we'll see if that gets my anywhere today.

I have a couple of different brand or styles of disconnect tools; usually one type will work where another type wouldn't.

A a lot of times you do need to blast the crud out from around the spring with spray carb or brake cleaner.

And make sure that the hose isn't pressurized- that will hold a spring and keep it from expanding.

If your tools don't work, try this before cutting a hose. On rare occasions over the years I've run into a Spring-Lock (Ford's name for the AC or fuel disconnect) that wouldn't budge; with any of my tools and even after cleaning, and even after cursing at it. I was able to disconnect these oddballs by taking a small piece of thin shim stock, deburring the straightest "working" edge, and rolling it into a cylinder. I used an open-end wrench to push the cylinder into the coupling, and it's tendency to unroll pushed the spring back whereas the specialty tools wouldn't.

If you get desperate, it's worth a shot.

 

[ForgedCrank]

If you get desperate, it's worth a shot.

Well, since this is just a spare project vehicle, there's no mad rush so I will most certainly go get some brass shim stock and give that a try before I cut it. I'll do whatever it takes to not cut it, I know the regret will run deep one day if I do. Thanks for the tip.
I have blasted it out quite a few times with brake clean and doused it with pen. oil over and over, it's just not cooperating. I saw one guy chop up a sharpie marker lid and used that as a release tube and I think it worked becasue it is somewhat flexible and might be doing what you described since it is thinner than the specific made tooks, so if the Lisle tool doesn't do it, I'll try that, then move on to the shim stuck idea.

 

[RobbieD]

I saw one guy chop up a sharpie marker lid and used that as a release tube and I think it worked becasue it is somewhat flexible and might be doing what you described since it is thinner

That's good idea too.

You've got the right attitude, and therefore you will succeed.

 

[SenorNoob]

Thinner may be the key here. I've had better luck with the cheap tools myself. Maybe that's why.

 

[ForgedCrank]

That's good idea too.

You've got the right attitude, and therefore you will succeed.

Ok , I"m done with it, it's not coming off. My fingers can't take anymore and I've tried everything I know of.
Is there a repair/splice kit for these if I cut the end off? As in, something that can be crimped on and done properly, or will this require an entire new fuel line run?
----------------
edit
Well now that I'm past my rage-post, I turned my brain back on and instead of fighting on, I disconnected the OTHER end of that return line and just left it attached to the fuel rail. It's still stuck on there, but that's how it's going back when I'm done.
Man that thing is stuck. I may even try to find one at a boneyard before i re-assemble. That kind of stuff bugs me.

 

[Blmpkn]

Sorry to hear about your mum, hope she has a quick recovery.

 

[19Walt93]

That looks like a nice clean truck and well worth fixing. When you get the engine done I'd recommend flushing out the brake fluid, it's blacker than a politician's heart.

 

[ForgedCrank]

That looks like a nice clean truck and well worth fixing. When you get the engine done I'd recommend flushing out the brake fluid, it's blacker than a politician's heart.

yea, the entire thing has been neglected mechanically. It's got more rust on it than appears too. One rocker/cab-corner is rusted and the lower part of the fender on the other side. I'd guess that brake fluid is probably from the factory if I had to bet on it. Rarely driven kind of situation, and owned by someone who's mechanical knowledge ended at pumping gas in a car. Appears to me they ran straight tap water in it for years as well. Radiator, all of it is full of rust sludge. I wonder why it had cooling problems and cracked the head? If I don't have to pull the block, I'm contemplating how I'm going to get all of that cleaned out. Right now I haven't a clue.
Anyway, I'll be going through the entire thing little by little, rustproofing and replacing panels where needed as I go. The engine bay is going to get a work-over before it goes back together, there's some rust in the radiator support area, probably from the condenser. I do know it got a new clutch and slave about 8K miles back, so that should be covered at least. My only goal right now is to have the engine part done before fall rainy season hits since I have to work on this one outside.

 

[JoshT]

I have a couple of different brand or styles of disconnect tools; usually one type will work where another type wouldn't.

A a lot of times you do need to blast the crud out from around the spring with spray carb or brake cleaner.

And make sure that the hose isn't pressurized- that will hold a spring and keep it from expanding.

If your tools don't work, try this before cutting a hose. On rare occasions over the years I've run into a Spring-Lock (Ford's name for the AC or fuel disconnect) that wouldn't budge; with any of my tools and even after cleaning, and even after cursing at it. I was able to disconnect these oddballs by taking a small piece of thin shim stock, deburring the straightest "working" edge, and rolling it into a cylinder. I used an open-end wrench to push the cylinder into the coupling, and it's tendency to unroll pushed the spring back whereas the specialty tools wouldn't.

If you get desperate, it's worth a shot.

I think my trick works better. Ya know I'm working on my truck over in dad's shop. Apparently there's a gremlin in that hangs out in there likes to work on vehicles and is attracted to the smell of PB Blaster. When I run into a disconnect like that I spray it with the PB and go about working on everything else I can around it. Next time I go over to work on it the gremlin has already gotten it loose. Worked wellfor both AC and fuel lines on the latest project.

Around here the problem with those fittings is usually that they've gotten filled up with crud and rusted up a bit. If you can clean all of that out and free up the insides they will usually come loose. After letting it soak with the PB for a bit dad will get out with a pick or small screw driver and work at the insides while flushing it out. Usually frees up and goes to working. It's better than him sitting in the recliner all day, and it's something he can help out with without over exerting himself.

 

[ForgedCrank]

I think my trick works better. Ya know I'm working on my truck over in dad's shop. Apparently there's a gremlin in that hangs out in there likes to work on vehicles and is attracted to the smell of PB Blaster. When I run into a disconnect like that I spray it with the PB and go about working on everything else I can around it. Next time I go over to work on it the gremlin has already gotten it loose. Worked wellfor both AC and fuel lines on the latest project.

Around here the problem with those fittings is usually that they've gotten filled up with crud and rusted up a bit. If you can clean all of that out and free up the insides they will usually come loose. After letting it soak with the PB for a bit dad will get out with a pick or small screw driver and work at the insides while flushing it out. Usually frees up and goes to working. It's better than him sitting in the recliner all day, and it's something he can help out with without over exerting himself.

I'll work on it maybe later now that it's on the bench. The line was in a tough spot to wrestle with a troublemaker of that level, no extra slack and it comes up between 2 intake runners.... so I only had about 2-3" of line to work with. I'm staring at it right now on the shop bench and thinking about torturing it with some map gas. That thing just about made me lose my marbles... this was day 3 of fighting it on and off in between work etc.
But anyway, now I can actually get to it without hanging upside down and laying across the engine so I may take another wack at it after my fingers heal up. They are so sore right now I had to have the kid open a can of pop for me. I may even print up some targets shaped like that connector.

 

[JoshT]

Appears to me they ran straight tap water in it for years as well. Radiator, all of it is full of rust sludge. I wonder why it had cooling problems and cracked the head? If I don't have to pull the block, I'm contemplating how I'm going to get all of that cleaned out. Right now I haven't a clue.

More tap water and coolant flush. Start out with flushing straight tap water through it until it runs clearish. Then start running engine flush chemicals through it. Get the kind that you drive around with it in the system for a bit, not the 10 minute flush kind. Repeat until it comes out clean. If the radiator is still cruded, replace it. Drain and fill with coolant.

If the truck is going to be parked for a while doing other repairs might want to pull the radiator and see if you can clean it some before starting to flush the rest. Pull it alay it on it's back and fill with a weak acid. You'll have to read around and see what's available and works well. I've even heard that cheap coke works because its mildly acidic.

Just replacing the radiator is anoption too, they aren't that expensive. Might want to flush as much as possible first though.