Getting to the distributor bolt

[Darascal101]

$150.00 bucks to anyone who wants to come set my timing. I have tried everything I can think of and cannot get on the hold down bolt!!

 

[RonD]

Do you have this tool: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/ultrasteel/ultrasteel-1-2-9-16-inch-distributor-clamp-wrench/ust0/at64510b

Also seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1189C-Offset-Distributor/dp/B000N31ZJY?th=1

Been around for 70+ years, but sitting in a drawer for the last 30 years, if you have a 1993 or newer Ranger

 

[Darascal101]

Do you have this tool: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/ultrasteel/ultrasteel-1-2-9-16-inch-distributor-clamp-wrench/ust0/at64510b

Also seen here: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1189C-Offset-Distributor/dp/B000N31ZJY?th=1

Been around for 70+ years, but sitting in a drawer for the last 30 years, if you have a 1993 or newer Ranger

Problem is my bolt is 10mm

 

[Darascal101]

Well with the use of a telescoping magnet and going through the passenger side wheel well I finally got the socket on the bolt. I could then see where to put the extension on the socket from under the hood. I had her running great. Sounded good. On her first trip she stalled and wouldn't restart. I got her towed home and after basic trouble shooting I realized that my radiator was nearly empty and my oil pan was VERY full. I think its time to let her go.

 

[Darascal101]

So I am considering a rebuild of a block I have (the original engine) and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for a quality kit. I don't know why I am so hesitant to let this truck go for good.

 

[19Walt93]

I'd take the negine you're going to build apart and inspect things before spending any money, you may find all you need are rings, bearing, and gaskets or you may find it's a disaster. I tore down a promised "good" engine once and found a quarter sized hole into the water jacket that lined up with the one mis matched connecting rod.I prefer Clevite bearings if they're available and Felpro or Victor Reinz gaskets and usually get engine parts from Summit Racing. Their prices are decent(keeping in mind I buy parts locally at wholesale) and on the very rare occasions that I've had a problem, Summit stepped up and fixed it. I know you don't have road salt to deal with but new freeze plugs are cheap and much easier to change with the engine on a stand than in the rig.

 

[Darascal101]

I'd take the negine you're going to build apart and inspect things before spending any money, you may find all you need are rings, bearing, and gaskets or you may find it's a disaster. I tore down a promised "good" engine once and found a quarter sized hole into the water jacket that lined up with the one mis matched connecting rod.I prefer Clevite bearings if they're available and Felpro or Victor Reinz gaskets and usually get engine parts from Summit Racing. Their prices are decent(keeping in mind I buy parts locally at wholesale) and on the very rare occasions that I've had a problem, Summit stepped up and fixed it. I know you don't have road salt to deal with but new freeze plugs are cheap and much easier to change with the engine on a stand than in the rig.

Yes sir. Disassembly and inspection was for sure the first planned step.

 

[Darascal101]

So here is a stupid question if the water into the oil pan was the result of a failed timing cover gasket would the water go almost directly into the oil pan. I only ask because it was like the water was going directly into the oil pan while I was filling the radiator without the engine running.

 

[Bgunner]

To get to the distributor bolt on my 94 3.0L I used a swivel and an extension and was able to get to it from the top passenger side. I used one hand to make sure the socket slipped on to the head of the bolt and the other to maneuver the socket/extension. You have to do it blind and that is why I used my left hand to guide the socket onto the head of the bolt. I changed my distributor due to the bushings wearing out.

The water/anti-freeze would go into the timing chain housing then into the oil pan if the timing chain cover gasket let go to the inside. In my experience they seem to let go on the right side (passenger side) to the outside most times.

 

[RonD]

So here is a stupid question if the water into the oil pan was the result of a failed timing cover gasket would the water go almost directly into the oil pan. I only ask because it was like the water was going directly into the oil pan while I was filling the radiator without the engine running.

Yes, on the 3.0l the timing chain cover has 2 passages for the water pump to block interface
Picture of 3.0l with timing cover removed and the 2 coolant passages pointed out: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_6301-1200a-jpg.53389/

You can see the now exposed/open oil pan at the bottom

Picture here of the cover: https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https://preview.redd.it/dfv3dsu20rp71.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=34dc5cfa6df9dbe9c7a7032db13ded22754bd24a

If either passage has a gasket failure then coolant/water can flow directly into the oil pan when the level of coolant/water reaches the level of the passages

You should loosen the oil pan so front drops down a bit before removing the timing chain cover, then after cover is reinstalled use some RTV and tighten oil pan back up