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Flipped leaf spring shackles?




ckblum

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How is the flex and spring rate of them though? What year durango works best and do you know if they just bolt right in or do you need to change the hanger position?
 

CopyKat

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I don't know much about them other than someone installing them and saying they fit well.

It was a couple years ago that I had seen it and don't remember who it was. I believe he scrapped the truck before he even got to wheeling it.

That's all I know.
 

sloue

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well sorry for wasting your time!
 

CopyKat

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well sorry for wasting your time!
Not waisting my time. Just that's all I can tell you about them. I have not done any testing. I have just noticed that they have a very large arc because of being spring under. I don't know the length of the spring from eye to eye or where the center bolt is located vs. the RBV leaves.

I noticed your from saskabush, where abouts??
 

sloue

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just up the road.

lives .5 mile up the road thats where i wheel but not with those guys they wheel with more beer than brains i like to drive home not walk. saw that rig broke in the hills just this week end. it s impresive though.(buddys ranger)
 

sloue

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i am 10 min east in a small town if you find your self coming west look for the rbv junk yard in my drive way just off the highway cant miss it the town fn hates me lol. back to topic did you move your hangers to the back holes and if so do you get bind just befor full droop? i have ,going to move them back .5 inch farther back when the snow flys i have straps stoping travel because of stock shock set up so the bind is not a worry now but i am plan a "shock shuffel" when it gets 500 below 0 . then the bind will f things up. i wonder if half inch is anought or is there a mersurment i should be looking for from front to back hangers? next q how much did you gain in wheel base . the only resone i noticed was the back wheel are off center to wheel well i dont care . but my buddy is thinking of doing this to his bII and figers the inch or so gained in wheel base will help him in the hills . i learnd to write it the dirt,and people tell me all the time you should be wearing a mask when i paint . so if this post is hard to under stand sorry this took me over an houre. copycat i read some where that a rednecks fav color is primer .
 

CopyKat

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i am 10 min east in a small town if you find your self coming west look for the rbv junk yard in my drive way just off the highway cant miss it the town fn hates me lol. back to topic did you move your hangers to the back holes and if so do you get bind just befor full droop? i have ,going to move them back .5 inch farther back when the snow flys i have straps stoping travel because of stock shock set up so the bind is not a worry now but i am plan a "shock shuffel" when it gets 500 below 0 . then the bind will f things up. i wonder if half inch is anought or is there a mersurment i should be looking for from front to back hangers? next q how much did you gain in wheel base . the only resone i noticed was the back wheel are off center to wheel well i dont care . but my buddy is thinking of doing this to his bII and figers the inch or so gained in wheel base will help him in the hills . i learnd to write it the dirt,and people tell me all the time you should be wearing a mask when i paint . so if this post is hard to under stand sorry this took me over an houre. copycat i read some where that a rednecks fav color is primer .

I moved the bracket back as far as I could. I'm using the rear/lower most bumper mounting hole as the start for my bracket. I had to drill the 3 other holes to mount each bracket. My guess is the bracket moved back about 3 inches. Rule of thumb would be to have close to a 90° angle between your shackle and spring, at ride height. I've got to strap mine right now as I get more down travel than the previous setup. But I get alot of leaf separation, something that I want to limit. I run 10" travel shocks out back and have no issues. Previously I had a zero rate add a leaf that moved the rear axle back 1.5". With the new setup I was thinking it would be wise to leave it out. Turns out that I was able to get a 1" stretch, so over my previous setup I lost 1/2" of wheel base. I'm not too worried, I prefer this.

If your looking to shuffle the shocks around look up sasquach-ryda, he did an outboard setup and it works fantastic. cutting into the bed is almost a must.

I want to outboard mine too but I'd like to keep the cab Sealed, so cutting holes in the floor isn't want I want to do. I spent all that time fixing them, don't want any more holes.

I'm thinking of tucking a cantalever setup under the floor somehow. Ultimately one day I'd like to link the back.:derisive:
 

sloue

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i took the sring wraps from the front of a half ton pack and put them on mine and has brought that it to check just getting those wraps with out breacking them pita sure you could problely buy them new i just resoned that half tons run this shackel set up so the spring wraps ,for lack of better term . should also be used in this mod i was worrid they slid up and down thw spring but they have not moved. sasquach-rydas out board shock set up its exactly the one i planed on .holes in the box not a concern any more fell in a hole and flatend it out on passengers side was abel to back out with out a strap so i wear the damage as a bage of honor i made it second try first one though there ever with a truck . on the topic of links what do think of looking at the links use ion tractors and such for there hitchs ,i belive they seam hefty enough i just wonder if you could find them long enough at better price than costom links just a brain wave when i was painting.
 

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on the topic of links what do think of looking at the links use ion tractors and such for there hitchs ,i belive they seam hefty enough i just wonder if you could find them long enough at better price than costom links just a brain wave when i was painting.

I'm using the stock explorer spring clamps. But they only use one at the front. It's the back that I'm getting the separation on. I could likely make my own clamps too. How did you attatch then or are they free floating?

The tractor links should stay on tractors. I used a pair when I first did my radius arms and they were shot in less than a year.

If I link I'll use regular bushings. Nothing fancy. The Jeep bushings they use in their links would work good and are replaceable, off the shelf. Or even a 3 piece spring bushing for a 2.5" leaf.

I've got to finish projects I have on the go now before I do any more.
 

thoughtcriminal

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hey copycat, another quick question.
How much did flipping the shackles drop your rear? I'd assume it would be somewhere around 1 inch if all the same hardware is used. Right?
 

CopyKat

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hey copycat, another quick question.
How much did flipping the shackles drop your rear? I'd assume it would be somewhere around 1 inch if all the same hardware is used. Right?
I'm guessing I dropped about 3" or more.

But i went from an extended shackle setup back to a stock shackle that is flipped. On a stock truck I would think it would be about a 2-2.5" drop.
 

thoughtcriminal

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I've heard that they give nearly 4" lift on a Ranger without block.
sorry to bother you again. Just need some clarification on this. do you mean that if you remove the blocks and put in these springs it will sit nearly 4 inches higher than stock, or am I misreading that?
thanks again
 
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