Engine Code P1443 - 1997 Ranger 4.0L Valve Solenoid, Senso or Canister?


cobrajocky

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I've got a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT Ex Cab disguised as a Mazda B4000 SE 2x4 4.0L FI with only 97k miles. I hope you don't mind, we all know it's a Ford Ranger and I know I'll get more help here then a Mazda specific forum.

Murphy's Law, I have smog due in October and suddenly the Engine Light came on, the code is P1443 "EVAP System Purge Flow Malfunction". Again, my truck only has 97k miles, but the vacuum hose between the Solenoid and the Charcoal canister was literally falling apart (dissolving). I bought some 6.5mm Vacuum hose at the local Auto Part shop, standard fit to the EVAP Valve, I had to stretch it quite a bit to get it over the inlet on the EVAP Charcoal Canister, but It went, also used some tubing between the solenoid and the EVAP sensor also inline, just in case.

Well the Check Engine light is still on ( don't have a reader that resets the light).

Here's the questions:
1) If I solve the problem (fault) does the Check Engine light go out on it's own or do I have to reset it? And HOW?

2) With neither Ford nor obviously Mazda carrying any parts for Rangers/B4000's anymore (I've called everywhere) are the "generic aftermarket" parts compatible"?

One Ebay and several parts houses like RockAuto list a "replacement" CP403 Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid for the non-existant factory part number. It looks identical from the pictures to what is in my Mazda and what us shown for a 4.0L XLT Ranger. Anyone one know if this CP403 is a "drop in" replacement and especially the stock plug power harness is compatible too?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401258458635

I've also ordered a replacement Sensor from RockAuto - AIRTEX/WELLS 2N1155 (PV342), looks the same, which I also hope is 100% compatible.

3) Am I missing anything else that might cause this Engine EVAP Error Code? How likely is it that the Charcoal canister could be bad with only 97K miles?

All help and advice from my Ranger/Mazda com padres is gratefully appreciated.
 


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adsm08

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Once the problem is fixed it will take some time for the light to go out on its own. It takes one instance of the problem to set a pending code. It take two instances in consecutive drive cycles to turn on the light. It takes 40 consecutive drive cycles without the problem occurring for the light to go out on it's own. The average driver may complete a drive cycle once a week in normal driving. Unhook the battery to reset the light.

Aftermarket parts that are listed as being a direct replacement are going to be exactly that. They will take the same form and function of the original. Sometimes Ford (or other manufacturers) will redesign a part for one reason or another, and an aftermarket part will generally reflect that same change, like when DPFE sensors went from aluminum to plastic housings.

BWD is usually my first choice for aftermarket electrical products, like this valve. CP403 sounds like a BWD number. For sensors I usually prefer Bosch or Echlin (Napa's brand).


P1443 is a circuit code. So while your hoses sound like they did need replaced I think your base issue is still there. This is a hard circuit to test without a good bi-directional scanner. I would look into getting an ELM327 bluetooth adapter and downloading ForScan. I recently found it from a post in this forum and as far as I got playing with it (haven't had a problem I had to diagnose yet) it looks pretty awesome. Anyway, I would guess that the valve has suffered an internal failure.
 

cobrajocky

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Engine Code P1443 - 1997 Ranger 4.0L Valve Solenoid, Sensor or Canister?

Once the problem is fixed it will take some time for the light to go out on its own. It takes one instance of the problem to set a pending code. It take two instances in consecutive drive cycles to turn on the light. It takes 40 consecutive drive cycles without the problem occurring for the light to go out on it's own. The average driver may complete a drive cycle once a week in normal driving. Unhook the battery to reset the light.

Aftermarket parts that are listed as being a direct replacement are going to be exactly that. They will take the same form and function of the original. Sometimes Ford (or other manufacturers) will redesign a part for one reason or another, and an aftermarket part will generally reflect that same change, like when DPFE sensors went from aluminum to plastic housings.

BWD is usually my first choice for aftermarket electrical products, like this valve. CP403 sounds like a BWD number. For sensors I usually prefer Bosch or Echlin (Napa's brand).


P1443 is a circuit code. So while your hoses sound like they did need replaced I think your base issue is still there. This is a hard circuit to test without a good bi-directional scanner. I would look into getting an ELM327 bluetooth adapter and downloading ForScan. I recently found it from a post in this forum and as far as I got playing with it (haven't had a problem I had to diagnose yet) it looks pretty awesome. Anyway, I would guess that the valve has suffered an internal failure.
Thanks for the excellent explanation in your reply, damn I would have paid $125 (p/hr) for the same info at the local Ford dealership, except that they wouldn't want to talk to me about a 20 year old Mazda (Ranger PUP) talk about feeling abandoned.

Good to know about the Drive Cycles needed to reset, I did not know this existed. Funny because there is a great video on YouTube on fixing the Engine Code P1443 - replacing the Valve in a Ranger XLT -and it depicts the Warning light going out immediately after installing the Valve Solenoid. https://youtu.be/MdWVyMdnGeM great video, but some artistic license on the light. I'll just disconnect the battery after I install the new Valve and Sensor.

Especially love your recommendation for the ELM327 bluetooth adapter, I had no idea these existed. Where did you buy yours? Most I've found online ship from somewhere in Asia. Any US online or brick n mortar stores carry it that you have experience with?

Thanks very very much! :yahoo:
 

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I got mine from Amazon. Fastpakr has a thread about programming keys with ForScan, I think it is in the tech article section, but I'm not 100% sure. I bought the one he linked to there.
 

cobrajocky

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I got mine from Amazon. Fastpakr has a thread about programming keys with ForScan, I think it is in the tech article section, but I'm not 100% sure. I bought the one he linked to there.
I found one type of OBD2 BlueTooth unit that universally had very good reviews from buyers on EBay from several sellers in the US. It comes with a PC Program called Torque and there are Free and Basic Android or that inferior iPhone OS apps available to download. The App look pretty similar to the ForScan you recommended and the seller I chose to buy from said other OBD2 BlueTooth apps will work with this unit too. I found a US seller that was selling it for $8 shipped, not a great loss if it's buggy. We'll see how well it works, otherwise I'll buy that basic $44 reader /reset OBD2 unit that Harbor Freight sells. It has decent review too.

The new Flow Valve and EVAP sensor are already on their way "in the mail", should be here by early next week. I'll try the Flow Valve first, clear the Code and see, then try the Sensor next.

Thanks again. :D
 

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Torque is nice for basic stuff like reading/clearing codes and viewing live data. ForScan does a lot more.
 

cobrajocky

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Once the problem is fixed it will take some time for the light to go out on its own. It takes one instance of the problem to set a pending code. It take two instances in consecutive drive cycles to turn on the light. It takes 40 consecutive drive cycles without the problem occurring for the light to go out on it's own. The average driver may complete a drive cycle once a week in normal driving. Unhook the battery to reset the light.

P1443 is a circuit code. So while your hoses sound like they did need replaced I think your base issue is still there. This is a hard circuit to test without a good bi-directional scanner. Anyway, I would guess that the valve has suffered an internal failure.
Well it was the EVAP Purge Valve that was the Engine Code causing fault and the cheap CP403 (EBay $34.86 vs $60 OEM parts store) after-market valve did the trick. Interestingly after installing the new Purge valve the Check Engine Light immediately turned itself off, didn't need the OBDII to reset it.

Also bought a replacement "Thermister" (flow Sensor) just in case, price was cheap $16 at Rock Auto, but I'll wait to install it after I pass smog testing (just in case it screws things up) :dunno:

Thanks for the advice.
 

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If the light went off right away then the circuit through the valve was open.

There is one monitor that allows the light to go out as soon as the problem is fixed, called the "Continuous Component Monitor" and it is mostly responsible for watching things like circuit continuity. There is probably still a history code sitting in memory, which might need cleared out if you have any OBDII based emissions testing to pass.
 

cobrajocky

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If the light went off right away then the circuit through the valve was open.

There is one monitor that allows the light to go out as soon as the problem is fixed, called the "Continuous Component Monitor" and it is mostly responsible for watching things like circuit continuity. There is probably still a history code sitting in memory, which might need cleared out if you have any OBDII based emissions testing to pass.
Ahhhh, great tip that there may still be a resident code. But how do I clear a code that might not show up on a OBDII reader? Is disconnecting the battery for a few minutes that ultimate clearing method?

I got the ELM327 based Bluetooth OBDII dongle Saturday, but the included Android app does not include almost any US Cars or Truck (no Rangers or F series Fords), I couldn't get Torque to "talk to" the ELM327 though my Samsung Android tablet "paired" with the dongle. I noticed that on the ForScan website, their data base doesn't go back before 2002 for anything. So I'm at a loss finding App to work with the ELM327 OBDII. I'll have to pick up a cheap Harbor Freight reader I guess.

Thanks
 

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A KAM reset is the ultimate method for clearing codes. A battery disconnect does that.

ForScan will work with pre-2002 vehicles as it works on my 97 Expedition.
 

cobrajocky

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A KAM reset is the ultimate method for clearing codes. A battery disconnect does that.

ForScan will work with pre-2002 vehicles as it works on my 97 Expedition.
Back again and so is the Check Engine light for the Engine Code P1443.

As I wrote earlier, I've replaced the AVP CP403 Flow valve and the vacuum hosing between the Canister and the Flow valve and the Flow Valve to the Thermister (sensor). I reset the Check Engine light with a Code Reader and just to be safe as I was about to have it Smog Checked, disconnected the battery for an hour. Put the OBD2 reader back on and no codes in the system. Had it smog checked and it passed. Now a week later the lights back on again and again it's the damn Code P1443.

What is going on? What else could it be that a week of driving no code and the suddenly it's back? :icon_confused:

Thanks for listening.
 

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Was this problem solved? I have the exact same issue.
 

cobrajocky

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Was this problem solved? I have the exact same issue.
The Cp403 Solenoid ended up being OK after all, it turned out that the system is VERY sensitive to good hoses, that they are TIGHT fits (no leaks) and the flow via the hoses. I went back and replaced ALL the hoses with new high quality from the local car part place. Problem of the returning code went away.

PS - I used a "Standard" brand CP403 Solenoid I bought off EBay and an Wells PV342 Purge valve I bought from Rock Auto online.
 


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