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Electronic Transfer Case Motor Diag


ericbphoto

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That's cool. Thanks for the pix
 


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ecgreen

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Thanks for the pic indeed! So the piece on the right is the shaft that terminates in the triangle, right? What's twisted on the one I have is the end of the shaft itself just below the triangle. I'll post a pic later.

I can't thank you guys enough. Everytime I post to RS I get such detailed and helpful responses. You guys are awesome
 

Shran

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Yes, manual transfer case will have fewer issues but also no "shift on the fly", you should always stop to shift transfer case
Wut

I've never met a manual shift t-case that you can't shift on the fly. Especially in a Ranger, 2H->4H or vise versa is totally fine while moving. Going into 4L requires a stop no matter what.
 

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You "can" you just "shouldn't", its different but similar to shifting a manual trans without the clutch, you "can" you just "shouldn't"

If front hubs are locked then in theory there is no shaft speed difference for the chain drive and main shaft so no wear shifting from 2WD to 4high and back
 

Shran

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I'm copying this directly from the 1996 Ranger owner's manual:

To shift from 2H to 4H: Stop the vehicle and engage the manual locking hubs by turning both hub lock selector knobs clockwise to the LOCK position. Move the transfer case shift lever straight back to the 4H position. After both hubs have been turned to the LOCK position, shifts between 2H and 4H (or 4H to 2H) may take place at any speed.

Whether or not doing that causes more wear is debatable, but I have been doing it in various makes and models with both chain and gear driven transfer cases and have never seen a failure related to that. Besides, the 1350/54 manual shift and electric shift are so similar internally that if it's OK for an electric motor to do it, it's OK for a human to do it... it's a matter of the same pieces moving back and forth inside either t-case, the only difference is pushing a button vs pulling a lever.
 

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Yes, as said you "can", if front hubs are locked
Not sure about the "any speed" thing, I thought there was an under 50mph recommendation
But Ford always knows best............:)

The electric shift does use a clutch, but that was probably for the Auto hubs as they would be unlocked before shifting to 4H
 

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right. the drivetrain needs to be brought up to speed before the auto hubs engage.
minor addition, the live front hubs from late 2000 on don't have that clutch in the electronic T-case.
 

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The electronic shift transfer case system was another over engineered piece that worked fine when it was new, but not so good when the wiring and everything else gets some age on it.

I had electronic shift on my 86 ranger, and with a new motor got it working for a couple of years before it quit. I messed with it for awhile, but then gave up and converted it to a manual electric shift.

What I did was run a hot fused wire directly from the battery to a double pole double throw switch. I basically wired the switch like a power window setup, with the shift motor being the same as the power window. I also got into the shift computer, found the correct wires coming from the switch on the motor, and tied them into the proper wires to the transfer case shift indicator lights.

I had to always come to a stop. I would then bump the switch till the 4x4 light came on. I was then in 4x4 hi. If I kept bumping the switch, the 4x4 low light would come on. I say bump the switch, putting a direct 12v to the shift motor makes it go very fast, they must have used a lower voltage with the computer system. 4 hi could be hard to find sometimes, too much bump and it can go past it a little bit, and then when you take off you might get a little grind noise. You then knew you had overshot and can bump it back a little bit. 4 low was always easy to get. I used it for years this way, and always had 4x4 when I needed it. The auto hubs always did their job and never gave me any trouble.
 

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Well, the shaft that that the electric motor turns to switch between 4-hi, 4-low and 2-hi is twisted for sure - and I am pretty sure I am the one who did it when I tried to manually shift the case with vice grips :rolleyes:. At first I thought someone else had done it, but it must have been me getting a little stupid or the T-case would not have shifted at all before. The triangle now points to 4-hi when its in 2-hi.

I am guessing that finding that shaft for sale alone is about impossible. So my options are:

1. Find a used 1350 electric and work the issues out
2. swap in a manual 1350

I can find manual 1350s all over around here, but I can't find the shifter, linkage and bolts.

Given that this rig is a dedicated overland/offroad rig, I might just try and swap in a new electric one with a brand new motor. The motor would get used constantly, so I have to imagine it would function better/longer than most.

Thoughts?

Sean
 

ericbphoto

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I wouldn’t hesitate to use an electric shift case. As long as you cycle it regularly, they work well.

I would prefer a manual case. But they aren’t as plentiful around here. I actually have one with no shifter linkage. Can’t remember if it’s a 1350 or 1354. It’s old. I was planning to build a doubler. But that will likely never happen now.
 

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A junkyard 1354 from an explorer or pre 97 ranger should be cheap and easy. Use the front driveshaft from the donor vehicle and possibly the rear yoke off of your 1350.
 

ecgreen

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ericbphoto

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It doesn't look anything like the picture that @pjtoledo posted earlier. Or maybe I don't understand which shaft you need.
 

pjtoledo

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it looks like the same shaft, sans spring and collar.
 


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