2.3L ('83-'97) Electrical Problem I can't figure out.

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Trying to start my '90 2.3l, 5 speed Ranger with no luck. I have power everywhere, just not past the cab. I have headlights, front turn signals but they won't blink, dash lights up, radio works, dome light works but not getting power to the fuel pump, no tail or brake lights, no rear turn signals. The engine cranks over just fine, plenty fast, it fires with a shot of starter fluid but quickly dies. I've checked my grounds (again), all fuses inside cab and under the hood, I also checked the fuel starter relay with a multi-meter and it's good also replaced the inertia switch but nothing has made any difference. Any suggestions as what to check next. Any help will be greatly appreciated!!! Many new parts including the fuel pump.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Sounds like the rear lamp/chassis harness connections.

I can't remember for sure... possibly in-line connections behind the LF fender well. Might even be in the bulk head.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Excuse my ignorance but what is the "bulkhead"?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Bulkhead connector... large connector that is used to connect dash wiring to engine compartment wiring. Typically bolted together with the firewall sandwiched between the connector halves.

 

[RonD]

Your 50/50 test shows the spark system is getting power

The fuel pump only gets 2 seconds of power with key on, then nothing after that UNTIL engine RPMs are above 400, cranking speed is 200rpms, just FYI

There is a manual override to activate fuel pump relay full time when key is on
Locate the OBD1(VIP) connector in engine bay, passenger side on main wiring harness that runs thru firewall to the computer in passenger kick panel

Looks like this, 2nd drawing: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Fuel Pump slot is labelled in drawing
Use a jumper wire to GROUND that slot, so to battery negative or engine metal
Then turn on the key
If fuel pump relay is working it will close and send 12volt to the inertia switch on the dark green wire, then out of inertia switch to fuel pump on the Pink wire

So with jumper in place, and Key On, you can test for 12volts at the inertia switch to see if there is 12volts there

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

I just went out and checked all the connectors, all are plugged together securely, white to white, black to black and gray to gray. There is one small connector (looks like a three pin) doesn't plug to anything, I'm thinking that is for testing?! Do I need to go under the dash and check? Nothing under there has been unplugged except for the ignition switch. It took a while to hit the "sweet spot" but I think I got it, I have ignition and accessories and it locks and unlocks correctly. Could it be a bad ignition switch?

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Your 50/50 test shows the spark system is getting power

The fuel pump only gets 2 seconds of power with key on, then nothing after that UNTIL engine RPMs are above 400, cranking speed is 200rpms, just FYI

There is a manual override to activate fuel pump relay full time when key is on
Locate the OBD1(VIP) connector in engine bay, passenger side on main wiring harness that runs thru firewall to the computer in passenger kick panel

Looks like this, 2nd drawing: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Fuel Pump slot is labelled in drawing
Use a jumper wire to GROUND that slot, so to battery negative or engine metal
Then turn on the key
If fuel pump relay is working it will close and send 12volt to the inertia switch on the dark green wire, then out of inertia switch to fuel pump on the Pink wire

So with jumper in place, and Key On, you can test for 12volts at the inertia switch to see if there is 12volts there

Thanx, I will go out and check that shortly, right after dinner.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Your 50/50 test shows the spark system is getting power

The fuel pump only gets 2 seconds of power with key on, then nothing after that UNTIL engine RPMs are above 400, cranking speed is 200rpms, just FYI

There is a manual override to activate fuel pump relay full time when key is on
Locate the OBD1(VIP) connector in engine bay, passenger side on main wiring harness that runs thru firewall to the computer in passenger kick panel

Looks like this, 2nd drawing: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Fuel Pump slot is labelled in drawing
Use a jumper wire to GROUND that slot, so to battery negative or engine metal
Then turn on the key
If fuel pump relay is working it will close and send 12volt to the inertia switch on the dark green wire, then out of inertia switch to fuel pump on the Pink wire

So with jumper in place, and Key On, you can test for 12volts at the inertia switch to see if there is 12volts there

I can't find it anywhere, even took my air box out to see if it had gotten under there. The only thing I could find was a short wire with a black connector on it that had a gray plug in it (2 pins). I followed the wires from pass. side firewall over to the driver side and can find nothing that even remotely resembles the diagram.

 

[tw205]

It will be in the engine compartment passenger side close to heater blower motor. Red I think

Pardon my intrusion.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

It will be in the engine compartment passenger side close to heater blower motor. Red I think

Pardon my intrusion.

I've looked all over hell and half of Georgia and I can find it, I didn't see anything red anywhere. Thanx for your input, no intrusion at all, thanx.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I suggested the chassis/rear lamp harness because you have lost all electrical functionality to the rear of the truck. I try to look for single points of failure.

You could jump the fuel pump relay just to see if the pump runs. It doesn't have to be at the diagnostic connector.

 

[tw205]

Sorry. Wasn’t red. It has a cap on it

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

I've looked all over hell and half of Georgia and I can find it, I didn't see anything red anywhere. Thanx for your input, no intrusion at all, thanx.

I just went out and looked again and no luck.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Sorry. Wasn’t red. It has a cap on it

Now we're getting somewhere, I did see a small box mounted to the end of the power dist. box with EEC on it I pulled it off and saw, I think, 4 separate plugs in the bottom of it but I didn't take the cap off. A picture is truly worth a thousand words. Thanx man, that helped immensely. You and your pictures can intrude ANYTIME!!!!!!!!!!

 

[tw205]

it’s a simple test plug and will allow you to hot wire the pump but I believe your issue is elsewhere. You mentioned your ignition switch was unplugged and you thought you hit the sweet spot. That’s where I would go first. If it’s not on squarely only some things will work. Said from experience. Stay tuned. Standing by.