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Duraspark II conversion no spark


BigMeatyClaws

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OHM testing for TFI module here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml
Module is disconnected from distributor to test the 3 "sensor" connectors

The Hall effect sensor(pickup) inside distributor needs to be test when TFI module is unplugged, these rarely fail but its possible
Loosen distributor but MARK where it is, you will need to turn the distributor
The Hall effect sensor detects a permanent magnet mounted next to it, there is a wheel with "vanes" attached to distributor shaft, it rotates the "vanes" so they pass between the Hall Effect sensor and the magnet
When a "vane" passes between it cuts the magnetic field, when there is no "vane" so open, magnetic field is back
The 12volt Hall effect sensor Pulses 12v on then 12v off, as the wheel spins
12v and ground should test as under 100ohms, its just a coil of wire
signal wire to either 12v(or ground) should show high then low ohms as you turn distributor so vane cuts off magnet then "window" restores magnetic field
I am not using a TFI. I switched to a duraspark II distributor. I checked and have good ground from the black wire from distributor. It does not change as the distributor spins. The duraspark module has good ground. I also re-checked between the orange and purple wires from the distributor and got 620 ohms. This did not change as it spun. Im at a loss. It seems to me that every component is passing checks. I tried with another module and it still had no spark from coil.
 


RonD

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ford4wd08

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I am not using a TFI. I switched to a duraspark II distributor. I checked and have good ground from the black wire from distributor. It does not change as the distributor spins. The duraspark module has good ground. I also re-checked between the orange and purple wires from the distributor and got 620 ohms. This did not change as it spun. Im at a loss. It seems to me that every component is passing checks. I tried with another module and it still had no spark from coil.
Are you sure that you spliced the wires correctly for the '85 per the instructions? It is not a simple plug and play.

Looks at the specific 85 instructions.

 

ford4wd08

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And look at this one too.

 

BigMeatyClaws

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bobbywalter

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Well then.



We have a poltergeist.
 

bobbywalter

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...if you are firing the coil manually. That would be my next check.
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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Well then.....there is a poltergeist in the box.....probably some of it's magic smoke got away ... The magic smoke usually gets replaced by a poltergeist.....almost as bad as gremlins.

Or the pickup. As you say the wiring is correct and has continuity.
 

bobbywalter

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And those boxes ...nknow to have poltergeists in them....right off the shelf . .
 

franklin2

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Do you have 12v on the red wire to the module when the key is in start and run?
 

BigMeatyClaws

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New discovery: the wire from my coil mount that should be to a radio interference capacitor was just grounded to the chassis. Thanks to previous owner, for this and many other "fixes". I'm going to try replacing this and see if that does anything. Maybe that's why a pulsing ground from the distributor couldn't get through. Any idea where to get one, fellows? Does it matter if I get oem or can I just grab a "universal" radio interference capacitor?
 

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