dome light/ key pad

[gi728]

Well this is on a 2002 explorer Eddie, 4.0. The dome light stays on for 20 mins after you shut off the truck. At around the same time this started the keyless entry key pad stopped working as well. It almost seems like the computer thinks the door is open not letting the dome light go out. Also when the key is in the ignition in the off position the ding ding ding sound like the door is open starts and the door is closed. I know that there is an alarm for the key being left in, but they sound different. ( at least to me). And the key has to be in the on position to unlock the doors.

 

[a31ford]

20 min. I believe, is the time limit on an open door, so my first guess would be the pin switch for that door.

Because the computer thinks the door is open, trying the other door won't work, because the computer has now "disabled" the dome light.

Try this, roll the windows down, close the doors, take the key out of the IGN. NOW, wait until the light goes out, after that, try the dome light from the headlamp switch, without opening the door, this will tell us something.

Greg

 

[gi728]

there is no pin switch that i can see on this. it must be in the lock its self. idk?

 

[a31ford]

There is some form of sensor for the door, just do the test, and we will see. I can't help if the patient is also the diagnostician...... I asked the questions in order to help, replying with another problem ain't gona get you any answers. Sorry for being an ass, but my time is also worth money, just like yours. you want help ?? do the test as asked.

Greg

 

[monsterchuck]

I can almost guarantee the door ajar switch is bad. Very common problem. It is inside the door, on the door latch itself. Pretty easy to change, actually.

 

[a31ford]

That is what I thought, but I wanted to eliminate the door/dome timer, that was the reason for the test.

There you go, change the switch, problem solved.

 

[adsm08]

The timer should last 10 minutes, not 20.

All the items you listed are things that at some level are controlled by the GEM and all their operation is affected by the position of the driver's door switch. I would start by jumping the door switch closed and seeing what happens.

 

[Tuner710]

Might try WD-40 on the door latches, where the switch is. Worked on my Expedition with dome lights staying on after door(s) were closed.

 

[monsterchuck]

That's true, I forgot about that trick. Spray some penetrating oil into the door latch, and open and close the door FIRMLY about a dozen or so times. If the switch is stuck, that will usually free it.

 

[Happy Camper]

Hi, I've been reading trough the discussion has I have a very similar problem on my 1998 B-4000. Hi also tough one of the door switches was faulty (would stick on the "door open" position") so here is was I did:

I took apart both of the door trims and disconnected the connectors for the switches to check the switches operation. On both sides, I had a closed switch (closed circuit) when the door was open and an open switch (open circuit) when the door was shut, which seems like correct operation of the switches to me...

I also have to mention that my "door ajar" sign will never go out (I had to take the three bulbs out of the dome light to prevent my battery from getting drained...). The interesting part of the story comes here: I also get the "ding ding" whenever I leave the key in the ignition (to the OFF position) with the driver door opened. Correct me if I'm wrong but this confirms that the switch is working properly (as I don't think that the dome light and chime are wired on a different switch).

So, just as Greg suggested, I start to believe now that there is some sord of timed-relay which delays the moment when the dome light extinguishes after the doors got shut and that timer would be stuck closed...

Am I on the right track or simply going deeper in the field?

Thanks!

 

[a31ford]

The Big thing here, is that electrical problems almost always need a diagram, (just if nothing else, to find out what all is connected). Many of the newer cars & trucks have one main " body computer" and also an "engine computer", and also have interconnections between the two, the old test light generally kills these computers, because most operate on 5 volts, instead of 12.

Get a diagram of your vehicle, (who ever needs one) and we can go from there.

Greg
Electronics Engineer, as well as many other things.

 

[clinton64xl]

I had the same thing happen to me.. I bought new door jamb switches off of ebay and it solved the problem..