dana 30?

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Yea I dunno, I keep saying when I break something i'll get going on my d44 swap...but I just haven't broken anything to justify the swap.

 

[bobbywalter]

You mean use my truck to go unsafe speeds?

The average person does NOT drive their lifted RBV at 100+ MPH. They also don't brake excessively.

A person who uses their truck in a legal and sane way can DD and trail ride 35s with wide offset with very minimal bearing maintenance.

Like Junkie said, you're probably overheating your hub assembly with your excessive braking (and speed). I have spent a lot of time around Detroit, and there's no reason to endanger others by driving a lifted rig recklessly like that. I don't even drive my Cobra like that.

dude i been driving this lifted rig for 17 years and have never hit anyone..(except for tag, and thats tag)....but i have been hit plenty..

i wasnt driving like some fawktard kid ricer zoomin round thinkin i was in some race...and i wasnt lane shifting passing everyone like some reckless ass either...if i didnt maintain the correct distance i would have run over alot of people and be in prison...for you driving around detroit enough to make an educated guess...generally 3-4 days a week from 5 am ish...run to 8 mile hoover via 96/davison corridor from downriver, back to monroe...then off to places ranging from toledo to dexter...usually a2/dexter via i-94 all before 8/9 am and maybe back to monroe during lunch for material.....managing to put down 8-20 sq by dark and work on trannies-mustangs-rangers ect after....


traffic runs hard early...i am not passin....just being in the flow.

then theres other work

3am runnin to cinci....if its clear, hammers down. makes for a long work day .


makes generally for two sets of tires per year. i am glad those days are behind me....and for sure i know when the bearings/hub issues startup, i can feel it with non swampers easily before there is danger or i would have been dead 10 years ago...theres weeks i went thru 3 shafts working...you can get real sick of dealing with these bearings when you got shit to do especially on a muddy jobsite and the pont of using the fawker as a mobile platform was NOT TO GET MUD ALL OVER MYSELF.

alot of late visits/phonecalls to go pull asshats out and busting shit that way more then any other....my wife hates 18-23 year olds with 4x4's now...cause she knows i will never change

just like junky...i know how and why the steering works...i know all about the bearing and brakes....i also had to fawk with all of that shit all the time to keep the tirs good, and my tires wear/wore great. alot of work in hard service.

more importantly, while i did list the extremes, this happens driving trying to save gas too...as in easy...the stop and go at 35 on the freeway cooks the brakes too. most driving is done that way

with light 33's no issues...with 35's....issues.



any of you guys run that route never breaking the speed limit driving like blue hairs will still have bearing issues with a d35 and 35 inch tires with 4 in back spacing and 10 in wheels. you will have less problems driving like an old lady, but none the less you will have problems, you sure as fawk wont have the luxury of two sets of tires in four years either


i want to see destructive testing on a d30 and d35 now.

a straight axle wont alter handling and tire wear to the degree the ttb does either with varied loading...but my truck did handle better heavy, and that was by design.

 

[bobbywalter]

Yea I dunno, I keep saying when I break something i'll get going on my d44 swap...but I just haven't broken anything to justify the swap.

and i kept saying when d35 parts run out i will go to 60 outers and 35 spline 44 pumpkin and custom shafts so i can lock it and run a season without wrenching...



and thats not something that out of mind either.


get joel and come to tennesee

 

[bobbywalter]

I guess everyone's experience is different.
I've seen too many D30 ring & pinions with their teeth cleaned off to ever recommend one under a big heavy Ranger. If you're lucky and only break a D30 shaft, the cartridge hubs make the whole thing super-easy to change, but changing a shaft out even on the D35 is still far easier than changing a gearset.

And I have almost 12" clearance under my D35's diff with 35s. It's all in how the suspension's ride height is set up.

have you ever run up the tank trap at hh?

march 14th...be there. please.

 

[Roger]

Not sure the OP wanted a war out of this... Every axle has its benefits, every axle has detractors. For me, I got the D30 for free, as I also got most of the parts I need for the swap. Its a HP D30, in theory stronger than the LP. Some think the CAD axle is stronger too. I'm thinking of adding a truss between the upper control arm mounts. My D35 setup will be saved for another project for later. But it needs wheel bearings and ball joints and all new seals no matter what.

So, swapping a D30 goodies include similar axle width. Same wheel pattern. Similar size brakes and calipers that some of us think are easier to work with. Later D30 axles have the same axle Ujoints as the D35 TTB. Some of us don't see the unit bearings as a bad thing. Easy to swap and no need to worry about proper setup of bearings. Tire wear isn't as severe as with the TTB. SOME of us don't always care for the constantly changing camber and toe. Some of us prefer to carry spares common to what others drive (I already have 2 Jeeps and a few spares on hand, and most of the folks I wheel with are Jeep folks).

I've seen two serious D30 breaks, a XJ on32s 4.10 LP ring gear sheared some teeth. Friend of mine was winching a vehicle up a hill. Decided to speed the recovery by backing up as well. Oops. Last summer a friend with a TJ on 37s destroyed a left axle Ujoint, bound up the wheel in a crack and he is very hard on the throttle. Took out the Ujoint, stub shaft and jacked up the lower balljoint. Both situations were beyond the capabilities of the D30. How would the D35 fare? I know some with D30s and 35"s and no troubles whatsoever. But, they don't drive like idiots either. And I know a guy that can't keep his D44 together and he barely wheels it (OK, he IS an idiot).

I'm not building this truck for me, but my son. And as misunderstood as the TTB is within this community, it is even worse outside....

 

[Evan]

dude i been driving this lifted rig for 17 years and have never hit anyone..(except for tag, and thats tag)....but i have been hit plenty..

I'm sorry, but it just isn't safe to drive a lifted RBV with 35s at 100 MPH. To say that EVERYONE was going that fast is untrue. Not only have I driven around D-town, but there HAD to be semis, busses, and 95 MPH-governed vehicles on the road.

You don't have the braking power or maneuverability to react in a bad situation at that speed.

Just because you've done something for awhile and been lucky, does not mean it's safe. I did a lot of stupid crap back in college and got away with it....like driving my 1992 Nissan Sentra @ 110 MPH on my way back home. (There were no cops in upper MI. )

 

[94 lngbd]

never seen it in any post yet . Whats the width of a dana 30 compared to the wheel mounting surface on a 94 Ranger

 

[Toreadorranger]

60.0325450634525"

 

[dangerranger83]

60.0325450634525"

Its not as wide as full widths, plus its good to have a wider front axle then the rear being wider. It will fit under an RBV just fine, look at other build threads.

 

[88_Eddie]

i've said this on numerous D30 threads out there. my buddy had a stock D30 in his 84 CJ7 and ran 35's with a 258 I6. competely stock axles except for 4.56's and a locker. he trashed the hell out of that rig, mud rocks, creeks, hills, anything and not once did he ever have a problem with the axle. he blew out the drivers side hub turning too tight in the snow one year, replaced the hubs with warns and wheeled for another 1.5 years with no probs.

for those that say there's more weight up front on a ranger, i beg to differ. how about cherokee's? while i wouldnt go higher than a 33 on a D30, people wheel them with 35's all the time.

i say do it, wheel it til it breaks and then upgrade as stuff busts. eventually you'll have a stronger axle, or even better, maybe nothing major will go wrong with it. it may be expensive, but taking your truck back to the alignment shop every other month gets pricey too.