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dana 30?


MakerOfBeast

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i am in the process of gathering parts for this swap right now. what i planed on doing is using the links from a 8" Rubicon express long arm lift kit and making a track bar to keep everything aligned. the links convert the suspension from a 4 link to radius arms and make the install easier. as far as the buckets go ill have to measure again but i think they are within 1/2" of the with of the stock ranger buckets. i am going to have a set of coil springs made with the jeep end on the bottom and ranger on top so i don't have to make my own buckets and can use the factory hardware. the taper on the tie rod ends is similar and both go through the top so i was going to use the ford steering. I also found a place that makes brake lines so i can go from the ford to the jeep axle with no problem. My only problem is going to be building the new trans cross member to take the joints on the end of the links.
 


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i am in the process of gathering parts for this swap right now. what i planed on doing is using the links from a 8" Rubicon express long arm lift kit and making a track bar to keep everything aligned. the links convert the suspension from a 4 link to radius arms and make the install easier. as far as the buckets go ill have to measure again but i think they are within 1/2" of the with of the stock ranger buckets. i am going to have a set of coil springs made with the jeep end on the bottom and ranger on top so i don't have to make my own buckets and can use the factory hardware. the taper on the tie rod ends is similar and both go through the top so i was going to use the ford steering. I also found a place that makes brake lines so i can go from the ford to the jeep axle with no problem. My only problem is going to be building the new trans cross member to take the joints on the end of the links.
when you do it take pics and let me know how it goes
 

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Doing something very similar, using a Tuff Country lower long arm for a TJ (33.5" eye to eye) and fabbing an upper link and bracket to make it a y-link.

I'm using the D30 as I got it for free, and I have a handfull of parts for it on hand already (2 jeeps...), and it matches the bazillion wheels I have in the shed for my Jeeps.
 

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I have a 8" rubicon express long arm lift kit on mine. The swap was done before i got the truck but i could post pics if it would help.
 

bobbywalter

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My credo
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actual wheelin left me working on my d35 and or stuck more then any d30....with some the d30 rigs within 100 pounds either way on the front axle and a hundred or more hp.

i also tore thru bearings when running 35's on the road, especially in 100 mph stop 100 mph stop again go stop go detroit commuter traffic....d44 knuckles fix that though unless you like to be hi center like i prefer for more ground clearance which still takes 35 in tires to clear what a d30 does on 33's....then you just live with the 35 knuckles.

i just cant bag on a d30 swap, its perfect for low buck. especially a leaf spring setup. hell if you had to you can do a leaf setup with no welding.



if your crawlin and need a swap for strength then get a 60 or build your own hybrid 60 type axle. thats where a 30 loses itself...with doublers and big tires the 44 wins in ring gear strength....but if you dont upgrade the d44 to 35 spline and use custom 60 or stronger shafts your just pissin in the wind.


that being said if you can get a 44 setup for a 100 bux your dumb not to use it.

this is just for low buck builds....if you got money then junkyard shit is just that anyway.


i know the minute differences in strength between a d30 and d35 ttb pointed to the 30 being stronger on the trail ime.
 

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I guess everyone's experience is different.
I've seen too many D30 ring & pinions with their teeth cleaned off to ever recommend one under a big heavy Ranger. If you're lucky and only break a D30 shaft, the cartridge hubs make the whole thing super-easy to change, but changing a shaft out even on the D35 is still far easier than changing a gearset.

And I have almost 12" clearance under my D35's diff with 35s. It's all in how the suspension's ride height is set up.
 

SAS_RANGER

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My friend had a Cherokee HP30 in his Ranger and it held up to 37 inch boggers on it. The transmission blew before the axle did but the axle was stock and open, but if your going to bother to do the fab work for an sas then a d44 or d60 is the best choice. The d44 is a little bit more $$$ but the extra stregth will definintly pay off. Not to mention that the d44 can be built way stonger than a d30 could ever be.
 

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actual wheelin left me working on my d35 and or stuck more then any d30....with some the d30 rigs within 100 pounds either way on the front axle and a hundred or more hp.

i also tore thru bearings when running 35's on the road, especially in 100 mph stop 100 mph stop again go stop go detroit commuter traffic....d44 knuckles fix that though unless you like to be hi center like i prefer for more ground clearance which still takes 35 in tires to clear what a d30 does on 33's....then you just live with the 35 knuckles.

i just cant bag on a d30 swap, its perfect for low buck. especially a leaf spring setup. hell if you had to you can do a leaf setup with no welding.



if your crawlin and need a swap for strength then get a 60 or build your own hybrid 60 type axle. thats where a 30 loses itself...with doublers and big tires the 44 wins in ring gear strength....but if you dont upgrade the d44 to 35 spline and use custom 60 or stronger shafts your just pissin in the wind.


that being said if you can get a 44 setup for a 100 bux your dumb not to use it.

this is just for low buck builds....if you got money then junkyard shit is just that anyway.


i know the minute differences in strength between a d30 and d35 ttb pointed to the 30 being stronger on the trail ime.

You didn't have your bearings set up right. It took me quite awhile (years actually) to learn how to set up 35 bearings correctly when running large tires. With some trial and error, help from Junkie and MAKG, I've got my bearings set up so they'll last for years. I've been DD'ing my truck for about a year with the current bearing setup. I'm running 35s on a 10" wide rim with 4.5" BS. I had the front jacked up the other day and the tires turn just like they did a year ago when I set the bearings up. Junkie and Todd both run 35+ tires and have reliable bearing setups.

As far as the strength of the 35 vs. the 30, it isn't a matter of opinion. For the most part the 35 is stronger all around. And if we're talking the majority of 30s (1995 and down) the 35 is substantially stronger.

If I had a D28 in my truck and access to a free D30, I might consider swapping a 30 in. But you can get a stronger bolt-on 35 dirt cheap at most yards, and 44s can be had for cheap most places. If you're gonna spend something on a SAS, might as well get something that's reasonably strong and has lockout hubs.
 

bobbywalter

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You didn't have your bearings set up right. It took me quite awhile (years actually) to learn how to set up 35 bearings correctly when running large tires. With some trial and error, help from Junkie and MAKG, I've got my bearings set up so they'll last for years. I've been DD'ing my truck for about a year with the current bearing setup. I'm running 35s on a 10" wide rim with 4.5" BS. I had the front jacked up the other day and the tires turn just like they did a year ago when I set the bearings up. Junkie and Todd both run 35+ tires and have reliable bearing setups.

As far as the strength of the 35 vs. the 30, it isn't a matter of opinion. For the most part the 35 is stronger all around. And if we're talking the majority of 30s (1995 and down) the 35 is substantially stronger.

If I had a D28 in my truck and access to a free D30, I might consider swapping a 30 in. But you can get a stronger bolt-on 35 dirt cheap at most yards, and 44s can be had for cheap most places. If you're gonna spend something on a SAS, might as well get something that's reasonably strong and has lockout hubs.



he hehehehehehhehehe...


dont set my bearings up right


mah hahahahahahahahaah...


thats fukin funny shit right there.

i have to say the d35 rules for changing axle shafts...dirtier then a d30 but i can do it faster.

granted,
i was driving in serious heavy detroit/toledo/cincinati traffic.....i would drive 100 plus mph for hrs sometimes stopping twice for fuel between detroit and cinci... with a ranger that weighs 5500-7000 pounds loaded with tools and material...so thats way past a d35's expected ability...still even lightly loaded the heavy traffic and brake heat was murder...

drive the truck 30-60 k year too...

with 35's the bearings brakes and balljoints/steering were in constant need of attention...constant constant constant need. but with 456 gears i was stuck with the fawkers..

the "good " d30's are what i am rferring too...they are available in mass where i was living...for every d44 there were dozens of 30's..and quite a few 10 bolts...very very rare a 60.

the d35 is hard to find these days in the yards in good condtion..the center slips usualy are fused and they are rotted at the pinchbolts..and on and on...


but thats just in my hood....there was a time when the d35 was the most common front axle that was usable and i was liking it. but those days have past.

considering i have been packing and properly setting up bearings since before rangers were even invented....and have been warping and loosing lugs out of the rotors amongst other failures and generally have no issues with setup....i have had 44 knuckles on and off with no issues even with 38's..though they were not really used on the road...problem with those is i have to give up clearance as i did not have 6 in pivot holes.


i dont think its me setting up my bearings wrong dude.
not even a consideration....35's were just too big to run the roads with in city traffic 100-200 miles a day...on and off job sites full of gooey mud and skytrac ruts ect....35's in these condidtions dramatically shorten the life of the bearings...its impossible to keep them balanced in these conditions even with my dyna beads..

where comparativly, 33's in at's will last indefinatly....no issues at all.


d30 is a great axle.....for conversions. i sure as fawk would not trade my 35 for one...but if i had a 2wd...:icon_thumby:

but if sas is the goal its cheap easy and not a big loss of strength ime.


you use your trucks like i use mine and those bearings and rotor hubs are doomed....i cant see you driving 200 miles a day and not having issues unless your tires are perfectly balanced and never leave the pavement.....i didnt shitcan my 35 cause i wanted a straight axle...though it was inevitable due to parts supply shrinking...it was the 8.8 i was killing that made me change...


and thats saying alot for the d35 right there.
 
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mkpecor

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if you listen to 4x4junkie like i did and others you will like the d35, i was goin to do a sas awhile back untill i talked around and now i like the way it runs on the trails. but if you do swap do a d44, sell the d30 and put it tords the d44. good luck with the swap.
 

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Sounds like you were having a BRAKE issue, Bobby. The bearings were only becoming a casualty of the brakes.
RBV brake rotors aren't real hard to overheat if you're stomping on the brake, then the gas, then the brake, then the gas... constantly. The D30's brakes will be absolutely no better with this.
A D44 knuckle (or axle) swap would help some with this, not because the bearings are wider, but because the brake rotors are bigger with more venting, and won't become as hot.

Of course trying to time your stops better and not driving so aggressively would help even more, this way you won't be slamming on the brakes all the time (note how long ago that light way ahead of you changed green... will it still be green when you finally get up to it?If not, no sense racing up to it)

 
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Evan

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you use your trucks like i use mine...

You mean use my truck to go unsafe speeds? :shok:

The average person does NOT drive their lifted RBV at 100+ MPH. They also don't brake excessively.

A person who uses their truck in a legal and sane way can DD and trail ride 35s with wide offset with very minimal bearing maintenance.

Like Junkie said, you're probably overheating your hub assembly with your excessive braking (and speed). I have spent a lot of time around Detroit, and there's no reason to endanger others by driving a lifted rig recklessly like that. I don't even drive my Cobra like that.
 
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I've been running the same set of wheel bearings in my d35 since I threw the lift in it 4 years ago. Thats been with 35" radial MTs unbalanced and now over a year and half with 36" TSL SX's unbalanced. Sure they've been apart and cleaned and repacked but I've never had a bearing fail or need to be replaced. The truck Is still my daily driver and was regularly driven aswell. I will be replacing my balljoints here this week, they've been in the truck for 4 years aswell. Either I got one of the good ones or i'm just not having the maintenance issues everyone always seems to complain about.
 
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