• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Cold lower radiator hose.


Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
Well the problems continue with this truck. Not even sure if it’s worth keep fixing. But the problem now is lower radiator hose is cold when all other hoses are hot. And a stupid question should I be able to spin my shock in a circle in place. I have a rattle. Pretty sure it’s that. And help would be greatly appreciated. I know little to nothing about trucks. But try my best.
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: F9A1A579ACFAD1: October 1st, 2021

Uncle Gump

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Sep 17, 2018
Messages
7,472
Reaction score
4,872
Points
113
Location
Plano IL
Vehicle Year
2006
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Lead, Follow or get out of my way
Technically... the lower hose should be cooler then the top hose. It should get hot though if the engine was run to operating temperature for several minutes.

Is the truck over heating?
 

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
Technically... the lower hose should be cooler then the top hose. It should get hot though if the engine was run to operating temperature for several minutes.

Is the truck over heating?
It stays cold after it’s been running for a while. It’s not over heating. Heat works fine. It’s a 01 ranger. 4.0 6 cyl. Sohc. 4x4.
 

Uncle Gump

Forum Staff Member
Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Sep 17, 2018
Messages
7,472
Reaction score
4,872
Points
113
Location
Plano IL
Vehicle Year
2006
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
My credo
Lead, Follow or get out of my way
If it truly stayed "cold"... the engine would Have to overheat... because coolant would not be circulating.

As I said before... the lower hose should be cooler because it supplies coolant to the engine after it has dissipated heat in the radiator.

Edit... so tell us what is the symptom you are trying to correct?
 

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
If it truly stayed "cold"... the engine would Have to overheat... because coolant would not be circulating.

As I said before... the lower hose should be cooler because it supplies coolant to the engine after it has dissipated heat in the radiator.

Edit... so tell us what is the symptom you are trying to correct?
Upper radiator hose is hard as a rock or is collapsed. It’s been burped a couple times
 
Last edited:

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
5,221
Reaction score
717
Points
113
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
The lower hose should be AT LEAST 30F lower temperature than the upper hose or the radiator isn't working, so that's fine... And I'm assuming the collapsed upper hose is after you've shut it down and let it sit for half hour or so? If so, that's normal too... hot liquids have a higher volume than the same liquid cold, at some point it will create enough vacuum to suck from the overflow bottle then equalize in pressure with atmosphere.

If the metal shield on the outside of the shock is loose enough to spin, that could be a rattle, the other common rattles are catalytic converter heat shields, the Ford factory fix is a big hose clamp...
 

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
The lower hose should be AT LEAST 30F lower temperature than the upper hose or the radiator isn't working, so that's fine... And I'm assuming the collapsed upper hose is after you've shut it down and let it sit for half hour or so? If so, that's normal too... hot liquids have a higher volume than the same liquid cold, at some point it will create enough vacuum to suck from the overflow bottle then equalize in pressure with atmosphere.

If the metal shield on the outside of the shock is loose enough to spin, that could be a rattle, the other common rattles are catalytic converter heat shields, the Ford factory fix is a big hose clamp...
The truck takes the bumps hard. How can you tell there bad while there in. The one Is pretty loose in. And spins in a complete circle. Thank you for your help.
 

scotts90ranger

Well-Known Member
RBV's on Boost
Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
5,221
Reaction score
717
Points
113
Location
Dayton Oregon
Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
If they are stock they are likely shot, when shocks are worn out they usually don't dampen the suspension action, if you go over a bump and it keeps bouncing after it then they're worn out. In the case of my F350 I was just going to replace the bushings until I undid the bottom bolt and there was no compression in it, the two rear shocks I took off are still fully compressed just sitting on the bench... they should be loaded with nitrogen and have some rebound...
 

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
If they are stock they are likely shot, when shocks are worn out they usually don't dampen the suspension action, if you go over a bump and it keeps bouncing after it then they're worn out. In the case of my F350 I was just going to replace the bushings until I undid the bottom bolt and there was no compression in it, the two rear shocks I took off are still fully compressed just sitting on the bench... they should be loaded with nitrogen and have some rebound...
My back one pushes in pretty easy. And releases like a rocket. The front one not sure. But my ride is bouncy. Kinda like a slow motion trampoline effect. It’s been one thing after another lately. Thank you very much for your time.
 

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,299
Reaction score
290
Points
83
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
My 98 Ranger beats me to death. But, this area is Potholes R Us. Even after you are familiar with all the potholes in a road, the next day there's a new one. Someone needs to develop a pothole radar.
 

RonD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2012
Messages
19,355
Reaction score
3,497
Points
113
Location
canada
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Upper radiator hose is hard as a rock or is collapsed. It’s been burped a couple times
With engine cold
Take rad cap off and then take the small hose off rad cap opening, the "overflow tank" hose
Blow into the hose, should be easy to blow thru and you should see/hear air bubbling up in Overflow tank
If its hard to blow thru and then gets easier you had a clogged hose or bottom of overflow tank was dirty
If so then clean out the overflow tank and hose, that is why upper rad hose was collapsing

If hose and tank were clear, replace rad cap its recovery valve is broken

Top up radiator, cap still off
Start engine
You might get a small surge of coolant over top of cap opening, then it will drop down and stay down at top of rad no overflowing
Let it idle for 2 minutes, there should be NO overflowing
If you are getting a constant overflowing at rad cap opening you have a blown head gasket or cracked head, period
This is causing the rock hard upper rad hose

With rad cap on, after about 5-8minutes the upper rad hose should be rock hard, 14psi internal pressure from coolant at 180+ degrees expanding
So that's normal

Radiator is there to dissipate EXTRA HEAT, so outside temp and engine heat generated would dictate upper and lower rad hose temps
Normal temp on the dash gauge would be just below the 1/2 way mark, 1/2 is about 205degF on Ford gauges
If yours is at say 1/3 then your thermostat is stuck open or the wrong one, Fords use 1990-195degF thermostats
When driving the temp gauge can go slightly above 1/2 when climbing a hill at speed or pulling a load, thats normal
3/4 on gauge is overheating, pull over and let engine idle at higher RPM to cool it down, if its still going up shut off the engine
 

Bgunner

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
1,385
Reaction score
640
Points
113
Location
Western Mass.
Vehicle Year
1994
Make / Model
Ford/Ranger XLT
Engine Size
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Tire Size
215/75R14
My credo
If it's not broken Don't Fix It!
To test shocks/struts while installed on a vehicle:

Bounce the vehicle corners and count the bounces after. This means bounce the one corner at a time but really get that corner bouncing, if needed have a friend help as some suspensions are really stiff, once bouncing good let go at the same time and count how many bounces the corner does after you stop. It should not bounce more than 3-4 times total. If it bounces more than that either the shock on that corner is worn or is bad. Repeat this step on all corners. Replace is sets of 2, both fronts or both rears.
 
Last edited:

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
With engine cold
Take rad cap off and then take the small hose off rad cap opening, the "overflow tank" hose
Blow into the hose, should be easy to blow thru and you should see/hear air bubbling up in Overflow tank
If its hard to blow thru and then gets easier you had a clogged hose or bottom of overflow tank was dirty
If so then clean out the overflow tank and hose, that is why upper rad hose was collapsing

If hose and tank were clear, replace rad cap its recovery valve is broken

Top up radiator, cap still off
Start engine
You might get a small surge of coolant over top of cap opening, then it will drop down and stay down at top of rad no overflowing
Let it idle for 2 minutes, there should be NO overflowing
If you are getting a constant overflowing at rad cap opening you have a blown head gasket or cracked head, period
This is causing the rock hard upper rad hose

With rad cap on, after about 5-8minutes the upper rad hose should be rock hard, 14psi internal pressure from coolant at 180+ degrees expanding
So that's normal

Radiator is there to dissipate EXTRA HEAT, so outside temp and engine heat generated would dictate upper and lower rad hose temps
Normal temp on the dash gauge would be just below the 1/2 way mark, 1/2 is about 205degF on Ford gauges
If yours is at say 1/3 then your thermostat is stuck open or the wrong one, Fords use 1990-195degF thermostats
When driving the temp gauge can go slightly above 1/2 when climbing a hill at speed or pulling a load, thats normal
3/4 on gauge is overheating, pull over and let engine idle at higher RPM to cool it down, if its still going up shut off the engine
Wow first off, thank you for taking the time to answer. Your info has been very helpful. I have burped it 4 different times. The flow is continuous with the cap off and running. So I probably won’t be putting anymore money in this. Thank you again.
 

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
To test shocks/struts while installed on a vehicle:

Bounce the vehicle corners and count the bounces after. This means bounce the one corner at a time but really get that corner bouncing, if needed have a friend help as some suspensions are really stiff, once bouncing good let go at the same time and count how many bounces the corner does after you stop. It should not bounce more than 3-4 times total. If it bounces more than that either the shock on that corner is worn or is bad. Repeat this step on all corners. Replace is sets of 2, both fronts or both rears.
Thank you for your time. That actually solved my issue.
 

Jeremy-b

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2020
Messages
34
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Fall River mass
Vehicle Year
2001
Make / Model
Ford ranger
Transmission
Automatic
With engine cold
Take rad cap off and then take the small hose off rad cap opening, the "overflow tank" hose
Blow into the hose, should be easy to blow thru and you should see/hear air bubbling up in Overflow tank
If its hard to blow thru and then gets easier you had a clogged hose or bottom of overflow tank was dirty
If so then clean out the overflow tank and hose, that is why upper rad hose was collapsing

If hose and tank were clear, replace rad cap its recovery valve is broken

Top up radiator, cap still off
Start engine
You might get a small surge of coolant over top of cap opening, then it will drop down and stay down at top of rad no overflowing
Let it idle for 2 minutes, there should be NO overflowing
If you are getting a constant overflowing at rad cap opening you have a blown head gasket or cracked head, period
This is causing the rock hard upper rad hose

With rad cap on, after about 5-8minutes the upper rad hose should be rock hard, 14psi internal pressure from coolant at 180+ degrees expanding
So that's normal

Radiator is there to dissipate EXTRA HEAT, so outside temp and engine heat generated would dictate upper and lower rad hose temps
Normal temp on the dash gauge would be just below the 1/2 way mark, 1/2 is about 205degF on Ford gauges
If yours is at say 1/3 then your thermostat is stuck open or the wrong one, Fords use 1990-195degF thermostats
When driving the temp gauge can go slightly above 1/2 when climbing a hill at speed or pulling a load, thats normal
3/4 on gauge is overheating, pull over and let engine idle at higher RPM to cool it down, if its still going up shut off the engine
I just also went and blown in the overflow hose I couldn’t even blow air through it it is definitely a clogged
 


Top