That's a tough combination of parts. Your engine was originally rated at 150hp @ 3,200rpm. It was designed to lug a station wagon around with a 2.50 ring gear. The heads were not designed to flow the 5,500rpm your camshaft selection is capable of--and your choice of intake manifold is rated to flow up to 8,500rpm. The carb could actually work on that manifold, but not on that engine.
Ford was focusing the torque right off idle, and the torque converter was designed to work with it. When you kill the torque, the converter won't flash anymore because you aren't hitting it hard enough. That means the car won't start moving, the engine won't gain rpm, air won't get flowing. to make it worse, you have a) a giant single plane intake which exposes the slow moving pistons to a giant volume of air that has too much inertia to actually move into the chamber. On top of that, you have mechanical secondaries with no air valve above them and that's way, way too big a hole for that 3,200rpm cylinder head to deal with.
You have 3 design philosophies at work here, and they don't work together any better than a grenade would replace a scalpel or a pipe wrench would replace tweezers. Pick one a) station wagon engine, b) street engine, c) race engine, and focus your parts on that goal.
I think your goal is b) so i would do what Baddad suggests and get rid of the Victor/double-pump. That cam is too much for your heads, but it could be made to work. Or at least it will run well enough until you can get decent ones. That cam focuses power above 2,500rpm so if you are using the stock converter, it won't be great. I would get a higher stall converter. Trucks tend to have a little deeper gears so you might be alright there.
If you insist on trying to make the double-pump work, think of it this way--big = slow airspeed at low rpms. Low airspeed = poor cylinder filling at low rpms. Low airspeed means poor carb signal--it needs air speeding through the venturies to pull fuel out of the bowls. To crutch it, you need a long, small squirt from the carb shooters. That's trial and error. There's nothing magic about a carb. You don't even need a carb to run an engine--a small, metered trickle of fuel right down the manifold will do the job. That's the theory of tuning a DP for the street.
A well-tuned, good running engine of 150hp is better than a theoretical 300hp that runs like dogcrap.