Can't Get '85 2.8 to run


ford4wd08

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Im having trouble getting the 2.8 in my B2 running. It seems like it wants to start, but just won't do it.

I have cleaned and rebuilt the carb. I was a little off on float adjustment, but believe i have since fixed it.

I know the fuel pump is working. It fills the carb bowl up.

So this leads me to belive that it is the ignition. I bought a new coil pack and installed it.

Still won't run.

I am going to look into timing and the distributor cap next i guess....

Any other suggestions?

The B2 has sat for about 6 or 7 years, but only has 60,000 miles on it....

EDIT: it runs! See post #58
 
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Kevin Evans

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Did you test for spark?

If you have a spark plug tester, connect that and see if you're getting spark. If not, take a plug, ground the body of it, connect it to a plug wire and see if it sparks when cranking.
 

Bird76Mojo

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Verify timing (don't forget the spout connector) and check your firing order is correct.

I advise you to get a manual for the truck as well, if you don't already have one.
 

RonD

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On older spark systems there was a Ballast resistor for the coil to extend its life so there were TWO 12volt wires from ignition switch, one was direct 12volts with key in START position, the other 8 volts with key in RUN

You can test if this is the problem by using a jumper wire from battery positive to Coil's "+" terminal then try to start engine
 

ford4wd08

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I just picked up our library's copy of the Chilton manual.

I guess the next thing to do would be confirm I have spark.

I assume for timing I'm an just going to check that the distributor is pointed to the number one cylinder on the compression strike? Since it is not running?
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Its been awhile....
Get the #1 to tip dead center and then move the cranknsnout so the timing mark is at 10* btdc. #1 spark plug pulled and grounded where you can see/hear it spark. Then loosen the distributor and slowly turn it until you hear a spark jump. I'm not sure if this works in a dizzy without points.
 

ford4wd08

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Update for today so far:

I confirmed i am getting spark with spark tester on cylinder #1.

I went to pull the distributor cap and noticed the whole distributor turned easily.

I think I have found my issue. I believe someone started working on it, and was looking at the timing and never finished it.

So my next steps are to install new plugs, wires, a new rotor, and cap then try to get the timing right.

So.... I never timed anything before. I get the theory, but not exactly sure where to start.

Any one have any pointers or a video or document to look at?

I understand you want 10 degrees before top dead center of cylinder number one, but where should the distributor be turned towards? I assume the rotor should be pointed at number 1 on the distributor cap??
 

RonD

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There are TWO #1 TDC's because this is a Four Stroke engine
1. compression stroke, valves closed piston going up to TDC, sprarkplug fires at 10deg Before TDC
2. power stroke, valves closed, spark plug has ignited air/fuel mix and its explosion is pushing piston down add power to crank
3. exhaust stroke, exhaust valve opens, piston is going up pushing out exhaust gases, 2nd TDC is at top of this stroke
4. intake stroke, exhaust valve closes, intake valve opens, piston is going down sucking in new air/fuel mix, which creates the Vacuum in intake manifold
1. compression stroke again, piston going up

For spark timing you need compression stroke/power stroke TDC
You can test for this by pulling #1 spark plug and turning crank manually until compression starts to build up in #1
You can use a pressure gauge or your finger, lol, you will know when pressure starts to build in the #1 cylinder, when timing mark on crank pulley comes around to line/mark on front cover(timing mark) the distributor's rotor should be pointed at #1

If its pointed at #5 then distributor is 180deg off so pull it out, rotate the ROTOR/shaft 180degree then reinstall it

Firing order of the 2.8l is 1-4-2-5-3-6, most V6 engines use this firing order

1-4-2-
5-3-6
Those are the matched pairs of pistons used to balance the engine's rotation
1 5
4 3
2 6

So 1 and 5 share TDCs(as do 4/3 and 2/6) but valves are opened opposite by the Cam, and the Cam powers the distributor
Which is why TDC mark is not just for #1 its also TDC for #5 every other rotation of the crank shaft


After all that, then you need to hook up a Timing light to fine turn the now running engine's spark timing to 10-12deg BTDC
 

ford4wd08

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There are TWO #1 TDC's because this is a Four Stroke engine
1. compression stroke, valves closed piston going up to TDC, sprarkplug fires at 10deg Before TDC
2. power stroke, valves closed, spark plug has ignited air/fuel mix and its explosion is pushing piston down add power to crank
3. exhaust stroke, exhaust valve opens, piston is going up pushing out exhaust gases, 2nd TDC is at top of this stroke
4. intake stroke, exhaust valve closes, intake valve opens, piston is going down sucking in new air/fuel mix, which creates the Vacuum in intake manifold
1. compression stroke again, piston going up

For spark timing you need compression stroke/power stroke TDC
You can test for this by pulling #1 spark plug and turning crank manually until compression starts to build up in #1
You can use a pressure gauge or your finger, lol, you will know when pressure starts to build in the #1 cylinder, when timing mark on crank pulley comes around to line/mark on front cover(timing mark) the distributor's rotor should be pointed at #1

If its pointed at #5 then distributor is 180deg off so pull it out, rotate the ROTOR/shaft 180degree then reinstall it

Firing order of the 2.8l is 1-4-2-5-3-6, most V6 engines use this firing order

1-4-2-
5-3-6
Those are the matched pairs of pistons used to balance the engine's rotation
1 5
4 3
2 6

So 1 and 5 share TDCs(as do 4/3 and 2/6) but valves are opened opposite by the Cam, and the Cam powers the distributor
Which is why TDC mark is not just for #1 its also TDC for #5 every other rotation of the crank shaft


After all that, then you need to hook up a Timing light to fine turn the now running engine's spark timing to 10-12deg BTDC
All of this makes sense. Thank you for the explanation.

The issue I am having as of last night is I found the timing marks.

There appears to be two. There is a open sight and pointer on the block above the balancer.

They are both all the way across the face of the pulley.

Which one is which? What are the differences in them? I assume one is to mark 10 degrees BTDC.

Do i line up after I feel the compression in cylinder #1 with the sight or the pointer and on which mark?

I am starting to wonder if my distributor needs to be removed and reinstalled to confirm it is not 180 degrees out.

I confirmed I had spark, but I don't think it is getting there at the right time.....
 

Denisefwd93

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Well there are only 2 180s in 360* 😳
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I've also wondered about the site/pointer. I have used the pointer in the past. Also if you get #1 piston up on compression then use the mark that is closest.
 

Denisefwd93

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Be glad it's not a 4 cylinder ! I watched a YouTube yesterday about changing the timing belt on one of them OMG! 😱😱😱
 

RonD

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2.8l will have 4 or 5 longer lines on the balancer/pulley

0deg
12.deg BTDC
20deg "
27deg "
30deg "

There are shorter lines, and numbers, from 0deg to 20deg, use scotchbrite or steelwool to clean off the balancer
Then you can paint it with white paint and then WIPE OFF the paint and it will stay in the lines to make them easier to see

12deg will look like this
1|2
..|
..|

So a 1 and a 2 with a long line in between
 

ford4wd08

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2.8l will have 4 or 5 longer lines on the balancer/pulley

0deg
12.deg BTDC
20deg "
27deg "
30deg "

There are shorter lines, and numbers, from 0deg to 20deg, use scotchbrite or steelwool to clean off the balancer
Then you can paint it with white paint and then WIPE OFF the paint and it will stay in the lines to make them easier to see

12deg will look like this
1|2
..|
..|

So a 1 and a 2 with a long line in between
I will take pictures and report back later on this...
 

ford4wd08

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2.8l will have 4 or 5 longer lines on the balancer/pulley

0deg
12.deg BTDC
20deg "
27deg "
30deg "

There are shorter lines, and numbers, from 0deg to 20deg, use scotchbrite or steelwool to clean off the balancer
Then you can paint it with white paint and then WIPE OFF the paint and it will stay in the lines to make them easier to see

12deg will look like this
1|2
..|
..|

So a 1 and a 2 with a long line in between

Also, which do you use, sight window or pointer on timing cover??
 


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