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c-clip eliminator


85general

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im gonna do a c clip eliminator on a dana 35 anyone got pics an tell me how to do it ? im gonna do an external one i searched all the other stuff on here but i need someone to tell me how it works an exactly how to do it.
 


crbnunit

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You need to find a spring that will fit over the axle splines but not over the slip-joint. I used one about 6" long and not horribly strong. 10-20 lbs should be plenty. I had to use a hose clamp to secure the shaft side and keep the spring from sliding. Install the spring, reinstall the boot over it, clamp in place and you are good to go. Check this link.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2003/MaximumFlexForTheTTB.htm
 

Evan

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I just removed the c-clip and didn't do anything to the slip yoke. Has worked well for years. I think that the shaft is naturally forced into the diff when load is applied or else I'm incredibly lucky. The rubber boot also provides some force.
 

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I once had the cap pop out of the yoke on my Ranger (internal spring) and the shaft then walked out of the pig enough to cause damage the seal. I would definitely have something on there to maintain full spline engagement of the shaft within the diff.
 

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I once had the cap pop out of the yoke on my Ranger (internal spring) and the shaft then walked out of the pig enough to cause damage the seal. I would definitely have something on there to maintain full spline engagement of the shaft within the diff.

I would if I could just find a damn external spring. Have tried tons of hardware stores, and nobody has one.
 

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I couldn't find a spring nearly big enough to do it externally, so I just tacked the backside of the female side and put a small spring in it. Works so far.
 

85general

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ok so you get a spring that will go over the splines but not the female end? im still not seein how that stops the axle from coming out cant it just slide out through the middle of the spring.
 

Sunk

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The outer part of the shaft is fixed at the spindle. The spring just pushes on the fixed half, keeping pressure on the inner half so it doesn't pop out of the diff.
 

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The spring is basically pushing the slipyoke apart. This keeps the shaft engaged in both the hub and the differential (the hub will still have it's c-clip & washer retainer, so the keeping of the shaft in the diff is what's important here)
 

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i lost all my spring info with the old forums, but ive been using a spring from this company for over a year now with no problems:

http://www.centuryspring.com/Century/GateWayServlet?action=com.relyon.suitesphere.components.CatalogActions.gotoPage&configuration=SearchControl@Compression&destination=Compression_search.jsp

i ordered the springs through Tractor Supply Company, you had to place a $40 minimum order, so i got $40 worth of springs kept 2, and sold the rest on TRS.

do a search on there for the dimensions u need.. i'll keep trying to find the PN, or my extra spring--and measure it
 

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bobbywalter

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My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I just removed the c-clip and didn't do anything to the slip yoke. Has worked well for years. I think that the shaft is naturally forced into the diff when load is applied or else I'm incredibly lucky. The rubber boot also provides some force.
come over and drop some of that luck off to me you lucky bastard...:temper:
 

Slingblade

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I was thinking of ordering some cause i cant find anything in the stores that even comes close. If there is interest i would order a bunch for a group and sell them off. or if someone else has one to sell let me know.

Chris
 

85general

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ok cool makes sence now thanks
 

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I used a 1 1/4" OD spring from a local hardware store, it needs to be 1 3/8" ID so I simply used some pliers to expand it and it works well.
 

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Bump an old thread. The tech section has 2 articles on this. One for drivers side and one for passenger. Should you do both?? The article for the passenger side seems to suggest that can eliminate the c-clip on the drivers side by putting a spring on the passenger side. DOesnt make sense to me.
 

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