Broken rear leaf. Help identifying replacement.

[rumblecloud]

Hi all. Busted a rear leaf and my head is spinning trying to ID a replacement. I've looked at the specs in the Tech section. Tried to parlay that info at Rock Auto and gave up. I think I can replace the individual leaf if I can ID it, but wonder if that is a good idea or should I replace the entire leaf? And then should I replace both sides? I guess I'm just looking for a little direction or a good place to start. Truck is a 94 SC 4.0L 4x4. GVWR 4840 LB. Rear GAWR is 2570 LB. Thanks in advance. R

 

[MikeG]

Junkyard. If the donor still has a door tag, you can look at the spring code and see if it matches yours. Otherwise take a set of calipers and just make sure the leaves are the same thickness. Use a tape measure to get the length of the leaves under the main leaf (just measure back from the eye).

 

[sgtsandman]

What are they? Three leafs and a base plate/overload spring? They look like they are. If so, they are rated at 1,250 pounds load capacity.

This link might help: https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Ford_Ranger_s/1879.htm

I would replace both sides whether you go used or buy new. More than likely, you will need new bolts while replacing the springs.

You could just replace the broken leaf (you will need a new center retaining bolt to hold the pack together and locate the axle) but it isn't the best route to go but people have done it in the past.

 

[rumblecloud]

What are they? Three leafs and a base plate/overload spring? They look like they are. If so, they are rated at 1,250 pounds load capacity.

This link might help: https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Ford_Ranger_s/1879.htm

I would replace both sides whether you go used or buy new. More than likely, you will need new bolts while replacing the springs.

You could just replace the broken leaf (you will need a new center retaining bolt to hold the pack together and locate the axle) but it isn't the best route to go but people have done it in the past.

Hi Sarge! Thanks for the response. I have been sitting here for the last hour going over the specs in the Tech section and figuring it out. Everything you've said is spot on. In digging around, I found a place here in Saginaw, Michigan - about an hour and a half from me that has them in stock. And the price is the same as those from General Spring, but I can save on shipping and have them same day.
I will replace both as well as new bolts and washers.

Is there anything I should look out for when replacing them? Any odd tools or difficulties I should be aware of?

Thanks a bunch for your help.
BTW, here is the link to the springs I'm looking at: Truck Spring in Saginaw

 

[sgtsandman]

Chances are good you will need to cut the rear bolts. Depending on the condition of your shackles and hangers, now might be the time to consider changing them as well. I had to use an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to remove my rear bolts. The upper bolts on the shackles will more than likely need cutting as well if you have to go that route.

 

[rumblecloud]

The shackles and hangers look pretty good, but I will prolly replace them anyway.. All the parts are available in a separate kit. It doesn't look like much fun, but it's something I haven't tried before...so, what's the worst that could happen?

Since I will have the big U-bolt retainers off, should those be replaced as well?

PS: THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE.

 

[Bgunner]

U bolts get replaced every time for safety reasons. Be sure to torque them and check them every 20-50 miles ( every couple of days depending on how far you drive it ) till when you put the torque wrench on them they no longer tighten to the properly set torque spec. The reasoning is because the spring pack will settle after install and the bolts will loosen a little so they need to be torqued a few times till everything totally settles in.

EDIT: When I changed mine I torqued them once a day after I drove it and it took three times before the torque held and the nuts would no longer turn before my wrench clicked.

 

[rumblecloud]

Thanks for the knowledge. Makes sense. As long as everything is off...
And people wonder why it costs so much to fix things ...well some things anyway.
Not complaining, just watching this add up.

Thanks again.
r

 

[Bgunner]

And people wonder why it costs so much to fix things ...well some things anyway.
Not complaining, just watching this add up.

I want to say when I changed mine a year ago or so total cost was around $300 But my hangers and shackles were all good and didn't need replacement. I ordered Eye bolts, U bolts and 2 spring packs and called it a half a day's worth of work on the ground to do it. If you have access to one I recommend using an impact on them for removal, well as long as they aren't seized in. U bolts many times I just cut them from the start to shorten the time I fiddle with them but I live in the rust belt so this is usually the fastest way. My Ranger on the other hand came right apart without cutting due to it not living in the rust belt for most of its life.

Hope this info helps speed you ion your journey.

 

[sgtsandman]

The job is DEFINITELY not fun but once the old stuff is out, the install isn’t so bad. Loosely install all the bolts before you tighten everything down or you will need a ratchet strap to align stuff.

If you have a hitch, you will need to drop it for accessing the rear spring bolts. Also, the bolts may be too long. You can either install them like factory, nut out, or trim them to length so they are nut in and easier to work on in the future.

I also chose to get bolts with zirc fittings so that hopefully, they don’t become “one” with the spring and shackle eyes like standard bolts do. They aren’t cheap though.

Like stated above, I had to re-torque the u-bolt nuts a couple times after installation before the suspension stopped settling and wouldn’t turn anymore.

Lastly, thank you for your support.

 

[Bgunner]

Even though I don't have a hitch I found it easier to drop the bumper to gain more room to access the rear spring eyelet bolts. The bumper brackets were in the way of me using a socket on them. If I remember correctly there were 4 bolts and the plate lights that needed to be removed to remove the bumper. I've had mine off twice and was able to install it without the help of someone holding it. Since you have the 94 also this will be a good thing to remove to add room to work. IF you haven't already, start spraying the bolts with penetrating oil every couple days till you do the job to help the disassembly process.

 

[rumblecloud]

I chickened out. Paid a garage to do it. But I did go pick up the parts . Cost for labor was $350. Not sure if that's too much, but it seemed fair considering all that needed to be done and all the skin is still on my knuckles.
Thank you all again for your input and advice. Really appreciate it.