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Big 'Ol Hole in the Block - Need a Duratec


Ish

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TL;DR: I need a 2.3L Duratec or something to take its place.

I recently picked up a 2005 Ranger (2.3L auto) knowing it didn't run, but the body and all is in pretty good shape. The guy said it died on the highway, didn't make any weird sounds, just sputtered and died (Whatever you say, pal). It smelled strongly of fuel when cranked (though it did sound low on compression on a cylinder or two), so I figured it was a simple fuel line leak. Sure enough, a mouse had chewed through the fuel fitting right above the gas tank, and it was spraying fuel out. I swapped the fitting, and was fairly confident it would start right up.

It didn't really want to start, but it did get going with some encouragement. Barely. There was a real bad misfire and wouldn't stay running. A quick investigation revealed a lot of oil coming out from somewhere, and after I got up under it I noticed a hole in the block. I guess the fuel line was just a lucky coincidence. Not sure what happened to the poor thing but there's no bringing it back now.

I'm on the hunt for an engine now. Local junkyard had a 2007 but someone beat me to the engine. There's a 2010 there too, but it has 230k miles and a suspicious hole in the valve cover, so I think I might have to pass on that one. Calling a few other places local, either nobody has one or they want some crazy number for it (>$2000??). I'm just looking for a beater truck, I don't want to throw too many pesos at it.


So, after that long winded way of getting to it, here's my question. Will any other engines just bolt right in, or am I stuck hunting for a 2.3l? If so, any ideas of where to get a decent 2.3l near Virginia for less than $500 or so? I might just put the truck right back up for sale and try to get my money back, I don't know. Thanks for any help.


P.S. First post and all, but no stranger to a Ranger. I also have a 1984 4WD V6 and a couple of early Couriers. Just not super familiar with the newer stuff.

ranger.jpg
 
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RonD

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Try https://www.car-part.com/

Use your Zipcode of course

2004 to 2011 2.3l Duratec will work, plug and play, 2001-2003 had a different intake, but you could swap yours over if one in these years is available

No, the bolt pattern for transmission is unique so would would have to swap out engine and trans to change engine model and of course computer and Cluster, so not a cost effective swap
 

Ish

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Yeah, I called around to a few places listed but no luck. The only somewhat local one is $1300. I may have to wait a while until the local junkyard gets a new truck in. Thanks for the link though.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't it seem a bit crazy to pay more than $1000 for a fairly common engine from nearly 20 years ago? My expectations may just be way off here, but I can't see paying anywhere near that much for a Duratec.
 

pjtoledo

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try 2007 Escape. block & head probably the same, swap the accessories. will need a front engine cover, Escape doesn't have a mechanical fan.
 

lowspeedpursuit

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Virginia is pretty big, but the one u-pull-it I'm familiar with in Fredericksburg (we have the same company here) charges ~$350 for an engine. Newer Rangers are not rare, and they don't really care if you use cutting tools. The Duratec apparently weighs 2-300lbs, depending on what's bolted on. On a budget I'd grab a buddy or two and go pull one myself.

Downside: likely no warranty. They do, however, keep track of known bad motors, and will tell you if the truck drove in under its own power.
 

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There under $400 up here. You might want to take a trip to Ontario
 

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If you owned 2 Couriers and survived a Ranger with a hole in the block won't hurt you. Before buying an Escape engine make sure it will work. I'm sure you could handle swapping externals but Ford has never been good at "they're all the same". We ran into a case where the same basic engine from 2 different models wouldn't interchange- and I think it was a 2.0 from a Focus vs one for an Escape. The vehicle we were fixing had- and needed- an axle support bracket on the block but the donor didn't have one. The owner of the Escape bumped the shifter into low by accident then headed down the road towing it behind his camper. The hole in his block was bigger than the hole in yours, too.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't it seem a bit crazy to pay more than $1000 for a fairly common engine from nearly 20 years ago? My expectations may just be way off here, but I can't see paying anywhere near that much for a Duratec.
You outta try finding a good 302.

30yo 150hp new who knows what shape with a truck intake under a tarp behind the shed for $1300 around here.
 

Ish

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Virginia is pretty big, but the one u-pull-it I'm familiar with in Fredericksburg (we have the same company here) charges ~$350 for an engine. Newer Rangers are not rare, and they don't really care if you use cutting tools. The Duratec apparently weighs 2-300lbs, depending on what's bolted on. On a budget I'd grab a buddy or two and go pull one myself.

Downside: likely no warranty. They do, however, keep track of known bad motors, and will tell you if the truck drove in under its own power.
Yeah, its about the same cost down this way. Somewhere around $300. That's where I'd like to get one, they just don't have any right now.


If you owned 2 Couriers and survived a Ranger with a hole in the block won't hurt you. Before buying an Escape engine make sure it will work. I'm sure you could handle swapping externals but Ford has never been good at "they're all the same".
I'll just keep an eye out at the junkyard for the next couple weeks, and if if no Rangers turn up I'll expand the search to include an Escape Thanks.


You outta try finding a good 302.
I did consider it, but managed to talk myself down from that ledge. I'm trying to get it back on the road ASAP, I don't really want to fiddle with an engine swap. I'd probably just sell the truck as is before I sink that much time into it.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Just saying, a good used 302 doesn't really grow on trees either.
 

19Walt93

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Just saying, a good used 302 doesn't really grow on trees either.
That's OK, even if the 302 hadn't gone out of production 21 years ago, I would never do an engine swap without rebuilding everything.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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That's OK, even if the 302 hadn't gone out of production 21 years ago, I would never do an engine swap without rebuilding everything.
Pretty much all I am finding in my quest is $1000 cores... which is hard to swallow.
 

19Walt93

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Pretty much all I am finding in my quest is $1000 cores... which is hard to swallow.
The roller cam and lifter kit I used this summer in a 390 cost $1200, so $1000 doesn't sound that bad. A 21 year or older engine is practically an antique and antiques are expensive. I must be pretty valuable then.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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The roller cam and lifter kit I used this summer in a 390 cost $1200, so $1000 doesn't sound that bad. A 21 year or older engine is practically an antique and antiques are expensive. I must be pretty valuable then.
10 years ago my 1987 factory roller 302 was $200 and I have ran it all over since. I would like to find one to freshen up.

Heck, three years ago a running/driving V8 explorer fell into my lap, I didn't have $600 for it at the time. Don't see stuff like that at all anymore.
 

19Walt93

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10 years ago my 1987 factory roller 302 was $200 and I have ran it all over since. I would like to find one to freshen up.

Heck, three years ago a running/driving V8 explorer fell into my lap, I didn't have $600 for it at the time. Don't see stuff like that at all anymore.
In 1977 I paid $4450 for a new V6 Mustang II and in the winter of 98-99 I paid $4300 for bumpers, weather strips, and a repaint on my current 77 Mustang. My 2011 Ranger XLT 4x4 Supercab cost about $27-28k, my son has a new Ranger Supercab on order for $40k plus. I started at the dealer on October 27, 1975 for $3.50 and hour when the retail labor rate was $10. In 1972, Sunoco 260(103 octane premium) was $.46.9 a gallon and the only people who bought it drove high performance animals because 46.9 was too much to pay for gas. In 1972,we figured a beat up(probably 5-6 year old) car in good enough shape to pass inspection was worth $200. Stuff is more expensive because the dollars are worth less.
 

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