96 Ford ranger 2.3L 4 cylinder acceleration hesitation

[Mark_88]

I went this morning and pulled the kick panel and hit the switch to see if it reset and it didn't so I'm assuming it's good, unless it can go bad without it resetting.
I did drive to Napa this morning and bought two relays one for the fuel pump and the other for the full throttle cut off ac wac relay. I replaced them in the parking lot and as I drove home I noticed a very notable improvement in acceleration response. Also, the starting of my truck went from 5 seconds give or take to less than 1 to 2 seconds.

The inertia switch can be on/off wonky...works fine till you hit a bump and then cuts the fuel pump either completely requiring a reset or partially with no reset needed.

I would go with the route you are following but keep the inertia switch in mind...if the MAF sensor does not fix it 100% you can try bypassing the Inertia Switch later...

On my Tempo the guy that actually discovered it was the inertia switch almost overlooked it...but he decided to pull it out of the trunk and have a closer look...and the back side of it was a melted mess...he said it was surprising it even worked at all...but when we replaced it all my symptoms vanished...never had a problem with it after that...

 

[haizrail]

Hey everybody, I just wanted to update everyone on the situation.

I've have ordered a new

Mass Air flow Senser

Electric Fuel Pump Inertia Switch

CP416 Purge Flow Sensor

The reason for the Purge flow senser is because of CEL Code P1443

I know the shop changed out the CP403 Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid
last year.
I'm hoping this will resolve my check engine light problem. I did find out that vaper locking could be a possible cause for my truck problems.

Note: After I replace the fuel pump relay and the Full Throttle Cut off ac (wac) relay, the trucks low fuel pump voltage CEL was resolved.

And if the Purge Flow senser doesn't fix code P1443 then I would need to trace the vacuum line running from the canister to the intake manifold or is it else where. My truck has a lowing kit on it ( bought with it on it ) so I can't get under the thing and I have no lift or any means to jack it up and that includes ramps. so any help with photos and/or etc would be helpful.

 

[Mark_88]

Sounds like an improvement...

I had (cannot find it now) a diagram of the purge system somewhere but it really doesn't help much if you have an existing system. The system basically draws off vapours from the fuel tank and the front end allows it to be burned off when you first start your engine. I think once that is done it closes until you shut the truck off again.

The only thing you need to do with those hoses is check the ends of them to make sure they are not split as this would cause it to not be sealed and it wouldn't work as it should...thus the error code.

There may be four or five connections that need to be checked...and you could pull the hoses off and see if they are split or burned through (hot engine or exhaust parts will melt them and cause the same effect).

I actually have the same error on my truck but mine has to do with the gas cap not being sealed properly. I forget the exact code but on a Dodge or some others if you turn the gas cap too many times or not enough it will trigger a purge system error...since the fuel tank needs to be sealed to complete the circuit of vapours making their way to the intake this makes perfect sense...

I miss my carbureted non-computer controlled engine sometimes...but not always.

 

[haizrail]

Ok a interesting turn of events this morning. My grandfather and I went to the fla market on the truck this this morning. And when we was about there the truck decided to do what it was doing in the second video.I was driving it easy and it hadn't got up to 20mph because I was slowly taking off from a stop light. any how the interesting part is that the check engine light was on before this happened, with code P1443 and after it happened the check engine light went off. after we got back home I did check to see if the light burnt out and it hasn't. Now I'm wondering if it is vaper locking.

 

[Mark_88]

Anything is possible...but vapour lock would be lower possibility...I found this online...might apply if you meet some or all of the possible causes...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock

I posted a video for a few people on how to test fuel pressure while driving...it involves connecting a pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel line by the intake and running it out over the hood so you can watch the pressure as you drive...you could even set up a camera or have someone else record it for you to see if there is a problem...might help...

 

[haizrail]

thanks I'll try it

 

[haizrail]

Hello, as everybody knows I have ordered a mass airflow sensor, fuel pump safety switch, and a purge valve. I went to get me something to eat this morning in my truck would barely run a lick to the eating establishment. Thank God I made it there and back on. However, on the way back home it ran like a top. After I got back, got to thinking about that incident six years ago where the truck actually left me and my friend stranded. So on a hunch I decided to go out to the hood of my truck and disconnect the entire air duct that runs from the side panel of the truck to the throttle body and take the mass airflow sensor out and actually inspect it myself. When I took the airflow sensor out and looked at the elements I noticed that the elements had Brown buildup on the elements. Since I've ordered another mass airflow sensor there's no need for me to clean it. I then took a flashlight and opened up throttle body and looked down inside to see if the shop actually told me the truth about cleaning the entire throttle body out, and lo and behold there is a one fourth of an inch thick of what I'm assuming is dirt inside behind the actual valve. So with this said I decided to part surely connect the duct backup only leaving the mass airflow sensor out and having everything else connected. Once I done this I got into my truck and cranked it because I wanted to see if it would automatically throw a check engine code or if I would get any kind of negative or positive response out of the throttle. Once the truck was running I gently press the gas and that's when I noticed the that same symptoms that the truck is doing intermittently going down the road. I also noticed that the check engine light didn't come on until I start pressing the gas pedal. And once I release the gas pedal the check engine light would go back out. Additionally, I also noticed that the occurrence that is demonstrated in the first video of me revving the truck up while in park happened way before I could actually get my book halfway on the gas by pressing it down. And then I tried it two more times. The second time I press the gas pedal it happened even quicker and the third time I press the gas pedal and done it as soon as I have to tap the gas pedal.

I do have one question now.

What can I use to clean out behind the throttle valve.
And what can I use to make sure that there is no more got further down and how would I go about doing this.

 

[tomw]

I have removed the throttle body from the intake to clean both the intake & the throttle plate/body. I used 'brake clean' when cleaning, along with a 'parts brush'{aluminum tube handled round bristle brush}, catching the brake clean in a pan, and re-sloshing it over the gummed up and dirty areas of the throttle body. The throttle cable, cruise control, air duct, TPS(in some cases), and some vacuum lines may have to be disconnected and then the throttle body will separate from the upper intake to be cleaned. Take care, and the gasket can be re-used with no problem. You can feel things 'nestle' together as you put it back in place and it will seal properly.
The upper intake can be cleaned using a spray carb cleaner. Get one that won't destroy the catalytic converter, and spray down the inner 'walls' of the upper intake, and let the juice settle into the lower intake, and possibly onto the back side of the closed intake valves. Soak for 1/2 hour. Inspect using a light to shine on the inner surface.
If really enthused, you can separate the upper and lower intakes, and clean them separately. A parts brush helps, along with any other kind of brush or rags and a piece of coathanger you can use to wipe the inner surfaces with solvent and mechanical action. You will likely need new gaskets if you separate or remove the intake manifold parts.
I would remove the TPS and IAC, cleaning the IAC separately, if your IAC is on the throttle body. Mine is a 'remote', over by the air cleaner, so doesn't get as much intake 'gunk' as one co-located with the throttle body. OTOH, it doesn't control the idle well, either, so it's not really a 'win' situation. The TSP may, repeat, may be damaged by cleaners, so I'd try to keep it protected no matter what you do.
I used a 6" extension on a 3/8" drive ratchet along with a 12-pt socket to fit the throttle body bolts. They can be removed with a little 'angling' of the extension.
tom

 

[haizrail]

the new mass airflow can in today I installed it and drove the truck and no difference, wait I take it back it's doing it less. but still doing it.

 

[haizrail]

hello, just wanted to update everybody, the purge flow senser was installed yesterday and it didn't fix the issues but it made the truck run a little better.

Today my fuel cut off safety switch came in and I installed it and after I cranked it I pressed the gas and noticed a difference, the truck still was doing it in idle but very softly, so I decided to press the gas a few more time at different intervals and it seemed to clear up. I don't know if it's fixed at this point but it's a lot better. I'll post a update later to let everyone if it's running properly.

and I did band the old switch ageist my truck after I had taken it off and the button did click off, so I decided to try it again, in total I tried 4 times and the first time was the only time the switch cut off, the other three times you could hear what ever was inside set and rest it's self.

 

[haizrail]

the fuel pump cut off switch didn't fix it.

 

[Mark_88]

Thanks again for the update.

So how often is it doing it now? More or less frequently? Longer duration of sputtering or is it just brief and then back to normal again?

 

[haizrail]

Hello, everybody, it was doing it less and not as harsh after I installed the cut off.However, I had to go to a funeral today and on the way there me and my grandfather got to talking about replacing the plugs and wires. well I left him there because he was going to get a ride back from a friend of his. well after I got back home I got to thinking of what we were talking about so I decided to go and wiggle the wires to see if they were making good contact and well they seemed fine. however, I decided to crank the truck up and rev the motor because in my opinion this was the key to figuring out if it was fixed. as I was reeving the motor I noticed the first rev was almost flawless and the second rev was worse than before I replaced the cutoff switch.
This got me to think I was in the ballpark. then a flash of lightning hit me what if one of the coil packs were bad I thought. But I had no way to test them to see. and then I remembered that I kept the old coil packs that I had taken off the truck last year. so I went and got them and replaced the front one first and cranked the truck and it was doing it more frequently. So then I decided to replace the back one to if it was good and when I was transplanting the wires from the new one to the old one I noticed the back right socket on the new coil pack was melted a little. so I continued and finished putting the old coil pack on. and when I cranked the truck and revved the motor the truck completely revved up to almost full throttle. way past the point where it was doing what the shop called getting to 3000 rpm rev limit in idle. I haven't drove it yet but I think it may be fixed.

 

[haizrail]

ok update to my trucks situation, the coil packs I took off have something wrong with them. I'm not sure what. however, the old coil pack's make the truck do what it's doing further down the throttle. So I'm in the right direction. I must of not press the gas petal close to the floor board erailer. furthermore, the slight vibration I was getting in my steering wheel sitting at a stop light is gone with the old coil packs.

I think I need to replace the plugs and wires next.

 

[Mark_88]

Actually...I'd stop while I was ahead a bit and maybe relax...enjoy yourself a bit...drive it around for a few days and contemplate this experience...

But plugs and wires are relatively easy to do...on the passenger side...driver side...get one of those wobble thingies that allows you to angle the socket to get at those driver side back two plugs...