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83 ranger a/c question

Farmall41

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Wow. Those are the first views I have seen of all that. And I have searched to the end of the internet. Thank you ! Very helpful
 


franklin2

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So 1983 had the recirculation feature and door also. I would see if the 1988 box would fit in your earlier model, since you are using 1988 controls.
 

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So 1983 had the recirculation feature and door also. I would see if the 1988 box would fit in your earlier model, since you are using 1988 controls.
I would think it would.

The firewall openings didn't change until '95, maybe some ducting tweaks but otherwise I would think it would interchange.
 

franklin2

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I just used the recirc feature on the way to work this morning. We are experiencing a very unusual chilly spell here the past day or two, and I have my heater core valved off under the hood because it leaks hot air in the summer. But I was getting a little chilly riding to work, so to keep the cool air from coming in I put the recirc control to inside air. That stopped the cool air from coming in, without having to go out and turn the water back on the heater core. I am sure summer is not over yet.
 

Farmall41

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Did you just put a valve in the heater hose and if so which one ? In other words , which hose is the inlet hose ?
 

RonD

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The hose from intake manifold by thermostat is the OUT to heater core, so heater core IN
Water pump hose is the IN from heater core

But doesn't matter which hose you put a shut off on, if you stop the flow you stop the flow, so no in and out to core

BUT.....................on some years the heater core is the water pumps only by pass, so it needs to have flow from intake heater hose to water pump in hose all the time
In those years Ford used a 4 hose by pass in engine bay, so cut off flow to heater core but keeps flow to water pump

In these years if heater core flow and water pump flow are cut off you will notice random temp spikes on the dash temp gauge after warm up, never over heats, temp just goes up above 1/2 then back down again

My 1994 does that when heater core gets too clogged up, lol, it has no by pass, never did

And as always, SWAP HEATER HOSES around at the heater core every 2 years, it reverses flow thru the core to keep it cleaner and help it last longer
 

Farmall41

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That's good information. Thank you
 

franklin2

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I happened to have two valves laying around so I put a valve in each hose. It really helps in the summer.

Put your air on vent and feel how hot it is coming out of the vents as you are driving. That's not engine heat on the duct, that is air leaking through the heater core which stays hot all the time in the original design. I would imagine the foam seal has rotted off the door and that is why it leaks, I tried to adjust the cable and it didn't help it.

I bet valves would help the output of your A/C if you have that hooked up and are using it also.

I tried the later model ranger 4 port heater core valve. I was just plugging it in to a unused vacuum port on the engine for the summer when I first installed it. But I didn't notice much difference. That is when I realized I was getting hot air when pulling the mountain I drive over every day. The little 2.8 is wide open each day I go over the mountain to and from work, and during that time the engine is not producing any vacuum and the valve would relax and let hot water into the heater core. So that was a fail. This same valve does work well on my 89 f250 diesel. That truck has a vacuum pump and a steady supply. I have the ranger valve hooked to the "max" air actuator so it cuts the water off when the A/C is on max.
 
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RonD

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Most vehicles have a vacuum reservoir after 1980 or so for the EGR valve
You can tap into that to get a steady vacuum regardless of engine RPMs/Load

Or you can add an inline Check valve to a vacuum line to a specific device, like the by pass valve, they cost $5-$8 new
Check valve holds vacuum on one side
Vacuum is not technically "used up" by any vacuum device, once vacuum is applied it just stays at that negative pressure until released........................or leaks, pulls in outside air
Vacuum hose to intake is open so vacuum goes up and down
With inline check valve, vacuum is held at its highest point on one side, device side, until its released or leaks air in
So with a good seal it will hold a long long time

Power brake boosters are the same, that white 90deg fitting on the booster is a check valve, holds highest vacuum in the booster even if engine stalls, but also after vehicle sits for a few weeks, when you press on the brake pedal you still feel the power assist of the vacuum in booster even before engine starts

Vacuum reservoirs are used when a system will be applying and releasing vacuum like vent systems, or EGR system
When you apply vacuum to a vent "motor" to divert air flow to Floor then to change it back to Panel you need to "release" that vacuum to floor vent, so its lost
Reservoir allows you to "store" vacuum, like in the power brake booster, so you can release some and not lose all vacuum
 
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franklin2

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For my simple manually activated 4 port valve a check in the line would have worked. I probably have one laying around in all my junk piles of emissions stuff.
 

4x4prepper

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re: 1983 ranger

Would you happen to have a manual air vent on the driver's side behind the parking brake?
 

Farmall41

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No. I don't think so
 

Farmall41

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Ok. So I finally got my ac working . Pag oil and r134. Heater hoses valved off. Works great going down the highway , but not so good going slow or stopped. I know my evaporator is very inefficient and my cheap ass electric fan keeps blowing fuses. Any body got ideas on a better fan, maybe one from a factory set up. Also need a better , more efficient condensor. Thanks to all yall who have helped me along the way
 

Farmall41

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I said evaporator but meant condensor is very inefficient
 

franklin2

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Any factory electric fan you can retro fit is better than the cheap aftermarket fans. I found one of the famous Ford Taurus fans and installed that on my Bronco II and it works great on high speed. It's a two speed fan but I only use the high speed side. It does draw a lot of current though. My electrical system keeps up with it, but it takes it all.

A better fan may help you avoid changing out the condensor. The later r134a condensors are more efficient, but the fittings on those units may not match up to your refrigerant lines.
 

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