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77 302 front pulleys and /or brackets


scrapper

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This is the one I have right now. I may be stuck for a bit waiting on heads and 4 barrel intake. I got engine back from the machine shop, short block it was like 1200. but that included a water pump and a pick up tube, assembled. Talk about sticker shock...
28816


I'm going to have to use a serpentine pulley setup because the front cover is newer and water pump is a reverse type. The motor looks good. I am going to have to figure out a motor mount. I'm confused about them. It looks like some are 1 piece and others are 2 piece. I'm not sure but do you need to re drill the holes in the frame or are the 4 and v8 the same width. I did see a 1 piece solid mount that looks good and was under 50. Im just not sure if if will bolt up or if its a good idea for a street truck. I'm trying to save a few bucks.
28818
 
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scrapper

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I just got some f150 heads that only have about 100 miles on a rebuild,all the front pulleys, and a set of comp cams valve springs. The heads are just truck heads but should bolt on and they are way better than my stock 75 heads, and all the pulleys and brackets for a reverse water pump including a power steering pump and alternator. I'm ready to go, I think, maybe a 4 barrel intake and engine mounts
 

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Ramcharger90

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Explorer belt drives are a lot cheaper and will fit in your truck a lot better.
If you use an older distributor with the module mounted to it you're gonna have to probably cut a little out of the braket for the top/center idler pulley to adjust the timing on the distributor. You can get one of the newer distributors where you can remote mount that module. But cutting a little out of it isn't that big of a deal. Picture is pre cut but I circled it.
 

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This is the one I have right now. I may be stuck for a bit waiting on heads and 4 barrel intake. I got engine back from the machine shop, short block it was like 1200. but that included a water pump and a pick up tube, assembled. Talk about sticker shock...
View attachment 28816

I'm going to have to use a serpentine pulley setup because the front cover is newer and water pump is a reverse type. The motor looks good. I am going to have to figure out a motor mount. I'm confused about them. It looks like some are 1 piece and others are 2 piece. I'm not sure but do you need to re drill the holes in the frame or are the 4 and v8 the same width. I did see a 1 piece solid mount that looks good and was under 50. Im just not sure if if will bolt up or if its a good idea for a street truck. I'm trying to save a few bucks.
View attachment 28818
I don't know what year truck you are putting it in but I got adapter plates from ricks rangers on ebay and 4.0 rubber mounts from rock auto in my 1990
 

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If you use an older distributor with the module mounted to it you're gonna have to probably cut a little out of the braket for the top/center idler pulley to adjust the timing on the distributor. You can get one of the newer distributors where you can remote mount that module. But cutting a little out of it isn't that big of a deal. Picture is pre cut but I circled it.
I did similar with my vacuum advance distributor.

 

scrapper

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well I had back surgery so can not lift more than 5 lbs for another month. I got the reverse water pump cover and all the pulleys from a f150. I got a hei distributor. The short block is done,been done. I need to clean the pulleys and install the heads and everything and install in the truck. I got v6 mounts and 2 plates ,I'm going to drill the holes myself. It's going to suck waiting a month.It will give me time to figure out what to do with the wiring. The harness is bad in the engine compartment. I got a small box to wire carbed engine. I'm not sure how to do it so I can bi pass the wiring. I have new gauges but they are not installed yet, all but the speedo. I tried to get all the parts together before I got started. I still may have to get a bell housing and the tranny checked out. I got the yoke from eBay for the c 4. Thanks for the help though.
 

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Most everything that works on a 1st generation Mustang will work on a Maverick. Keep in mind that a 77 302 made 139hp due to the spark advance curve, lean fuel mix and atrocious heads. It also would have come with an aluminum timing gear with nylon teeth bonded to it. You can recurve the distributor pretty easily and decent 4 barrel manifolds are available, the heads should be upgraded to at least the common E7TE Mustang/F150 heads. Also be aware, the factory timing gears were retarded 4 degrees so an aftermarket double roller set up is a wise investment.
The factory double row, roller chain sets for the roller 5.0's are not retarded 4*. I've only run across one timing set that was retarded and that was for a 351M, and it's only offset by a half tooth on the cam gear. I don't know what that translates to in degrees, but doesn't seem like 4*.
 

baddad457

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Any idea if shorty headers off of a 68 mustang they sweep to the back instead of straight down would work in a ranger? I would think the headers that point down would hit the steering shaft? It it hard to tell from pictures.
68 Mustangs never had headers, period. Hedman 88400's are what you want, or the old Shelby Tri-Y's. The Tri-Y's fit like they were made for the Ranger's with a 157 tooth bellhousing. 164 tooth bells, they need to be tweaked to clear the bell. On an intake, look at the Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth, Ford A321 or the old Shelby Cobra. The old Edelbrock twisted Torker was also a good one. These all work from idle to 6500 rpm, despite what's advertised
 

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Most everything that works on a 1st generation Mustang will work on a Maverick. Keep in mind that a 77 302 made 139hp due to the spark advance curve, lean fuel mix and atrocious heads. It also would have come with an aluminum timing gear with nylon teeth bonded to it. You can recurve the distributor pretty easily and decent 4 barrel manifolds are available, the heads should be upgraded to at least the common E7TE Mustang/F150 heads. Also be aware, the factory timing gears were retarded 4 degrees so an aftermarket double roller set up is a wise investment.
About only thing you missed as to the reason for low HP is deep dished pistons and .021 taller deck height
 

baddad457

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About only thing you missed as to the reason for low HP is deep dished pistons and .021 taller deck height
77 302's had flat top pistons. The low comp ratio came from the 70 cc combustion chambers. The deep dish pistons were used from 72 to 76. And then there's the cam specs. Lift was not much. Duration was not long.
 

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In the 70's they didn't use roller chains, they had "silent" chains with nylon teeth on aluminum cam sprockets. They were especially silent after 40-50k when the teeth wore down and the chain jumped. From 73-76 Ford increased the deck height on 302's by .023" to lower compression, I think because they had a bunch of pistons they wanted to use up. They just didn't know how to meet the ever changing emissions rules of the day; they dropped compression, retarded timing and limited advance curves, leaned out fuel mixture, added convertors to exhaust that was already too small, then added EGR valves to get rid of any residual smooth running or power. My 77 Mustang distributor centrifugal advance wasn't fully in until over 4500 rpm, in stock condition it would get 12 mpg and run a 17.7 quarter mile at 78 mph-according to magazine articles from the time. I like the 13.8@102 and 20 mpg it now does much better.
 

scrapper

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I got a no name intake and a Holley 1850 600 cfm. I'm trying to figure out a good wiring harness. Mine is got problems in the engine comparment. I think I will get one from ebay. I did get the hei with the coil on top. Good to know about grinding out the bracket. I meant to write 86 mustang. I was on my phone.
 
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scrapper

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68 Mustangs never had headers, period. Hedman 88400's are what you want, or the old Shelby Tri-Y's. The Tri-Y's fit like they were made for the Ranger's with a 157 tooth bellhousing. 164 tooth bells, they need to be tweaked to clear the bell. On an intake, look at the Performer RPM, Weiand Stealth, Ford A321 or the old Shelby Cobra. The old Edelbrock twisted Torker was also a good one. These all work from idle to 6500 rpm, despite what's advertised

Do you think these would work or are shorty headers better? I was reading and someone with an 88 had these. The description on ebay said c4 with smaller bellhousing these would clear. That does not mean they will clear in a 94 ranger but I do have a 3" body lift.
SS Long Tube Tri-Y Exhaust Header Manifold for 64-70 Ford Mustang 5.0 260-302 V8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SS-Long-Tube-Tri-Y-Exhaust-Header-Manifold-for-64-70-Ford-Mustang-5-0-260-302-V8/332734690077?hash=item4d7888731d:g:jA8AAOSweD5cklpo
 

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Do you think these would work or are shorty headers better? I was reading and someone with an 88 had these. The description on ebay said c4 with smaller bellhousing these would clear. That does not mean they will clear in a 94 ranger but I do have a 3" body lift.
SS Long Tube Tri-Y Exhaust Header Manifold for 64-70 Ford Mustang 5.0 260-302 V8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SS-Long-Tube-Tri-Y-Exhaust-Header-Manifold-for-64-70-Ford-Mustang-5-0-260-302-V8/332734690077?hash=item4d7888731d:g:jA8AAOSweD5cklpo

[/QU
They fit in anf it's not botl 89 without a body lift. The passenger side will fall through the frame i
Do you think these would work or are shorty headers better? I was reading and someone with an 88 had these. The description on ebay said c4 with smaller bellhousing these would clear. That does not mean they will clear in a 94 ranger but I do have a 3" body lift.
SS Long Tube Tri-Y Exhaust Header Manifold for 64-70 Ford Mustang 5.0 260-302 V8
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SS-Long-Tube-Tri-Y-Exhaust-Header-Manifold-for-64-70-Ford-Mustang-5-0-260-302-V8/332734690077?hash=item4d7888731d:g:jA8AAOSweD5cklpo
They fit an 89. The driver's side header will fall through the frame if it's not bolted to the head. Tri-Y's are superior to shortys
 


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