77 302 front pulleys and /or brackets


scrapper

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Does any of the billet v grove pulley kits mount up to the brackets on a 77 maverick 302? I am guessing the engine would fit in a 94 ranger like they are. The old pulleys are rusted a bit and seem kinda thin. They sell v groove pulley sets for about 120. for around 250 they have the ones with the brackets also. Should I wait till I get the engine in? I may have to put different brackets on it? The ps pump is round. Most swaps seem to involve a lot newer engines. I was wondering if anyone had the specs for the engine clearances for rings, pistons, bearings, for a 77 302, or a good place to find them, maybe it only needs a ring job? Thanks for any info
 


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19Walt93

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Most everything that works on a 1st generation Mustang will work on a Maverick. Keep in mind that a 77 302 made 139hp due to the spark advance curve, lean fuel mix and atrocious heads. It also would have come with an aluminum timing gear with nylon teeth bonded to it. You can recurve the distributor pretty easily and decent 4 barrel manifolds are available, the heads should be upgraded to at least the common E7TE Mustang/F150 heads. Also be aware, the factory timing gears were retarded 4 degrees so an aftermarket double roller set up is a wise investment.
 

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Explorer belt drives are a lot cheaper and will fit in your truck a lot better.
 

scrapper

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I understand the low hp on this year. I'm just going to be happy with it and dual plane intake 600 cfm carb and a better cam. Going to call to get it hot tanked and have them check it out. If I have to get pistons I will try to up the compression ratio. We get a lot of different ford v8 trucks vans,explorers. When I get back to work I will snatch a pair. I just want to get it running right now. What is a better cam specs? I know idle to 5-6000 rpm would work. Thanks for some answers. I have been reading and reading so much stuff out there. The dipstick is in the oil pan. I may have one. I don't have everything yet. Been off work because of a stroke. Hopefully only going to be a couple of more weeks, what it is will be fine. If I can just do a re ring job. That will work fine. Connecting rod bearings had no wear, crank bearings did. Pistons had a very small amount of wear. Had carbon build up, hopefully it will be ok? Find out in a few days.
 

scrapper

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Just dropped it off the guy said it looks like it needs bored out they would know more in the next couple of days. Im going to try and find a cam and better pistons.
 

19Walt93

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I had a Ford Motorsport M6250-a302 (204/214@.050 &.448/.472 lift on 112 lobe separation), in my 77 Mustang with a Performer intake, GT40 heads, Holley 600 and Dynomax headers before I built the roller cam engine for it. It ran good from idle to 1500 and above 4500-4800 and really strong from 1500-4800, you won't find a cam that runs strong all the way from idle to 6000, pick one that works best where your engine will spend its time. Drag racing with that engine I ran very low 14's if I shifted at 5000 and slightly slower if I shifted at 5500. Rule of thumb- if you can't decide between 2 cams, buy the smaller one. Summit offers a 204/214 cam with their brand on it for reasonable money. Keep in mind that a flat tappet cam needs zinc or zddp in the oil, especially during break in.
 

scrapper

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Im okay with zinc add in. I dont need to drag race just wanted better hp,daily driver maybe some towing. I am going to try port matching the heads, and the dual plane intake. Thanks for some ideas. I just got the How to book. I am having a heck of a time finding parts local, probably going to have to get most engine parts from ebay. Called 2 junk yards and they didnt have anything 302. LOL ,Hell,wasnt 1977 was just a few years ago??? 19Walt93 I just re read your cam specs. They are almost the same that I was looking at. Lobe separation was a bit different. It says good torque. Did your run ok could it get out of its own way no problem?
 
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19Walt93

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It ran great, very slight lope at idle- about like a 60's mopar police cruiser. A tighter lobe separation angle like 108 or 110 will have a rougher idle and a peakier torque curve, a 112 or 114 will idle smoother and have a broad, flat torque curve that's better for street driving. My engine was actually based on a 74 block, 73-76 302's had a .023" taller deck height which sunk the pistons in the hole to drop compression in a misguided attempt to improve emissions, with what I know now I'd have had the block decked. I built a roller cam engine with a slightly bigger cam (210/218 degrees) that I zero decked and improved the times to 13.8 @ 102 mph. For a low rev torque engine I like the old Holley Contender intake and the stock 83-85 Mustang GT manifold, they're both basically aluminum copies of the 289 4 barrel manifold from the 60's.If you don't mind cast iron those 289 manifolds are worth a look. I'd use a 1 ", 4 hole spacer on whichever one you pick. Carlisle Ford weekend is 3 weeks away.
 

19Walt93

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About the idle- with exhaust manifolds the 204/214 cam sounded pretty stock at idle, with headers and minimal mufflers it was a little lopey but not rough at all.
 

scrapper

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Any idea if shorty headers off of a 68 mustang they sweep to the back instead of straight down would work in a ranger? I would think the headers that point down would hit the steering shaft? It it hard to tell from pictures.
 

scrapper

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Could not edit last post but machine shop said it would be next week before block would be done. Got to bore it. I'm just going to get a kit off ebay with a stage 2 cam. It seems with headers, flat top, pistons dual plane, and a 600cfm carb should be good to go? I was asking someplace else and a guy said a dd may be better off with a stage 1 cam? I'm hoping to find some used stuff to save a few bucks. I think headers,carb,intake should be safe not going with used cam or anything like that.
 

19Walt93

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What is a stage 2 cam? Lift and duration specs, please. If I had to guess you'd be happier with a stage 1 cam because I assume that would be more of a low rev torque cam. Bigger isn't always better.
 

scrapper

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here is one, there are about 3 different ones all really close just a bit different.
  • Stage: 2
  • Duration @ .050": Intake: 218 Exhaust: 218
  • Advertised Duration: Intake:288 Exhaust: 300
  • Valve Lift: Intake: .458 Exhaust: .458
  • Lobe Separation: 113
  • Power Range: 1700-5500
  • Idle: OK
Duration @ .050 Intake 218 Exhaust 218
Advanced Duration Intake 297 Exhaust 297
Valve Lift .458 Exhaust .457
Lobe Sep. Intake 106 Exhaust 120
Power range 1700-5200
Idle Fair

Duration @ .050 Intake 190 Exhaust 202
Advanced Duration Intake 258 Exhaust 271
Valve Lift .413 Exhaust .437
Lobe Sep. Intake 106 Exhaust 114
Power range 1000-4000
Idle Smooth
Comment: Good low end torque. Good for towing.

there are more
 

19Walt93

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The second one is a little smaller than my old cam but it's bigger than a 289 4 barrel cam. If the intake center is 106 and exhaust is 114 that means it has a 110 degree separation angle so it will have a narrower torque curve but make good peak torque. The one with 218 duration would make better power at high rpm but might be a little doggy off idle. What brand are these cams?
 


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