64" leaf / shackle flip questions

[basshead]

im looking into doing the 64" leafs WITH the shackle flip . i have tried searching but no where really gives you an in detail step by step detailed how-to for this. I am confused because there is the direct swap with no shackle flip as well (not what im looking to do).. do i have to move the front mount forward 6" for the shackle flip swap? then just basically rotate the rear mounts 180 degrees?

also, i have the beltech shackles right now which gave me 2" lift and the stock 2.5" block in the rear. i am looking to stay at this same height mabie 0.5" lower. I am only interested in getting travel. no hieght. any thoughts on the best way ?

 

[basshead]

oh comeone..noone?

 

[brinker88]

Do you need to go back to middle school to learn how to do math?

1.) Find out how much lift a set of 64's will net you (2" or so)
2.) Find out how much a shackle flip will lower your truck.
3.) Your OE block should be 2" plus the 2" shackle lift.

Now, grab a calculator if you're too incompetent to do the math in your head and crunch some numbers.

Shazam! You've got your answers

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

@ brinker88
Take it easy, everybody looks for reassurance the first time they attempt something new.
@basshead
You will have to move the front mount forward 6" if you plan on using the 64/63" chevy springs. I can't give any numbers for height as I didn't measure when I did mine, I was going for as low as I could go. If you can get through brinkers sarcasm, he has some numbers that seem correct.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[brinker88]

Damn, I thought I was still on Pirate...

 

[Bennybooster]

.......tech library.......

 

[basshead]

.......tech library.......

yeah tech library doesnt say how much lift it gives. all it says, is people have to move it 6" forward.

so move it 6" forward, then turn the rear mount 180 degrees? im looking to keep 2" lift over stock. (basically same height as adding the belteck shackle).
do you think if i play around with the shackle i can adjust to the 1-2" lift? or will it be really high? or really low?

like i said i cant fins a post that actually goes into depth on this

 

[basshead]

@ brinker88
Take it easy, everybody looks for reassurance the first time they attempt something new.
@basshead
You will have to move the front mount forward 6" if you plan on using the 64/63" chevy springs. I can't give any numbers for height as I didn't measure when I did mine, I was going for as low as I could go. If you can get through brinkers sarcasm, he has some numbers that seem correct.
Good luck,

Richard

yeah im looking for feedback and just gathering info..i dont want to do this, then have something looking retarded with the ass end all the way in the air.

@ brinker88..chill out man just because im unsure of how this actually gains/ decreses lift doesnt mean i cant do math, and therfore you should call me out and be an ass. but putting being an ass aside, thanks for your thoughts on numbers

 

[Pony]

for 63" chevy i believe you move the hole from the bottom one to the next whole next to it but i guess it depends not sure though sorry

 

[PlumCrazy]

With stock 64" leaves, stock 2.5" block, and 2" lift shackles I had about 5" of lift.

If you remove the stock block, flip the hanger, and use a longer shackles then you will be stock height or lower.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

No matter what the front hanger needs to move forward 6". The hole in the frame that was used for the front lower rivet in the hanger will now be reused for the rear lower hole in the hanger.

-PlumCrazy

 

[PlumCrazy]

BTW if your a super cab, them your relocated hanger will get into the cab mount.

Here is a post from my build a few years back.

I started on the 64" spring swap today.

Its floating

I didn't feel like fighting with all the rusty spring bolts, so I just took it all off together

Old spring and Chevy spring side by side.

New rear hanger and Chevy drop shackle

Before I started

I held the new bracket up where I wanted it and shot some blue paint over it to mark out where I will need cut the cab mount. Disregard the sharpie outline.

I tried to make my cut look clean so I took off a little more than I needed to.

I welded a peice of metal between the frame and the back side of the bed mount to make up for all the metal I removed from the side of the mount

the top front hole of the new hanger will be to high to bolt to the frame so I chopped it off and welded a 1/2 strip to the side and drilled a hole a little lower.

here is what it will look like when it gets bolted up.

holes are drilled and the hanger is done.

I didn't flip the shackles, but the front hanger still has to move if you do.

You will most likely need higher arch 64" leaves.

I am now running 5.5" 64" lift leaves with a 3/4" block, and 2" lift shackles. And netting the 5" lift still.


-PlumCrazy

 

[basshead]

thanks for the post with pics!

 

[Toofarnorth]

Hey, I noticed that in the tech library it mentions that having the springs re-arched. But it doesn't mention why, how much and/or how to tell when they have the corrected arch.

Any comments on that?

 

[PlumCrazy]

Re arched springs make up for the lost height from the shackle flip,and allow for more uptravel as the spring flattens out.

The re arch and flip is more of a long travel high speed type application IMO.

Just 64" leaves and a extended shackles have worked out awesome for my slow speed trail riding style.

-PlumCrazy