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302 swap


Cornexav

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So been thinking about swapping to a 302 and keeping it manual. I have a 302 that I believe came from a 1980 Ford Granada. Everything appears to be there still and the only problem I was told was that it has no spark. Now I haven't done much looking but I am concerned about driveshafts lengths and transfer case options. I'm also looking for feedback on what to do with the front end and diff gears, I do plan on going off roading but nothing extremely crazy as I would like to still drive it on the road.
Any and all advice or direction pointing would be greatly appreciated.
 


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RonD

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In 1980 the 302 should be a carb/distributor setup, is that correct?
If so are you staying with that, or going to EFI/distributorless?

Best fit for manual trans will be an M5OD-R2 from a 1997-2003 F150 4x4 with 4.2l V6
The later model 4.2l V6 has the same transmission bolt pattern as the 302
Rangers used the M5OD-R1, the M5OD-R2 was made for full size trucks, w/V8s, and has shifter coming up thru the floor at the same place as the R1
Also get the transfer case with the 4x4s M5OD-R2, if its electric shift it will work fine with Rangers electric shift

You can use older truck manual transmissions and transfer cases from a 302, the shifter will come up thru the floor just under the dash on the tunnel, so you will need to custom bend the shifter to clear the dash

Yes, you will need to retro-fit driveshafts but you have to measure once engine/trans/transfer case is IN, there can be differences in ANY drive train swap, so "this fits" is not always correct for all swaps

Your 1993 4.0l Ranger will have 8.8" rear differential which is fine to use with V8 power
Front in 1993 4.0l is most likely a Dana 35, but could be a hybrid Dana 28
3.73:1 ratio was the most common and fine to use unless tire diameter gets above 31"
4.10:1 is better as tires get bigger, even 4.56:1 when they get "real big", lol

You can check what you have here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Book mark this page: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.shtml
Answers to most questions will be there
Look in Conversions section at the bottom
 

rubydist

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Having bought my first new car in 1980, I can tell you that a 1980 302 was a gutless wonder with 134 hp and 232 lb-ft of torque, so my advice would be to rebuild it with some halfway decent heads so it at least has more power and torque than the 6 cylinder you are removing.
 

19Walt93

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I'd use an 80 engine if I had one but would prefer an 82 or later with a one piece rear main seal and much prefer a 85 or later with a roller cam. I agree that the 80 heads were trash, the common E7TE Mustang/ truck heads are plentiful and cheap but a good upgrade. I'd even use late 60's 289 heads because the ports were better and the chambers were smaller for better compression. Avoid using rail rockers even if you have to buy hardened pushrods and guide plates to do it. The E7TE heads have pedestal rockers which work fine. I'd also recommend a double roller timing chain, the 80 probably has a silent chain which is prone to stretching and may have the retarded cam timing that was common in the mid-late 70's. Please don't go through the work and expense of an engine swap without rebuilding the V8.
 

Cornexav

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Please don't go through the work and expense of an engine swap without rebuilding the V8.
I had plans on building the engine to begin with, I had already known with it being an early 80s v8 from a car it wasn't gonna much better than the v6 in my truck right now. I was thinking of making it a 347 stroker but have seen people say it would be better to do a 331 or just deal with squishing a 351w in the truck. I'm still open to multiple things as I do not have a transmission yet and the 302 is still together.
 

19Walt93

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An 80 302 would feel like a lot more torque than a 4.0 but it would be easy to make more with better heads and a mild cam. I put a 351 in my 93 because I had a complete one and wouldn't say it's squished in there. I used exhaust manifolds with 66 Galaxie 289 numbers on them, I think 289 hipo manifolds would work but I got the used manifolds for $40. I also had a Mustang II C4 complete with bellhousing, flex plate, and block plate. After I rebuilt it and stuck it in place I found out that the 351 oil pan is wider and didn't leave room for a starter. A 73 Mustang 157 tooth flex plate and bell housing fixed it. If I'd had enough parts to build a 302 I would have just because it's narrower.
L eng view.JPG
 

Junglejoe

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First figure out a plan. I've wasted so much money over the years on hotrods...

Do you "need" a stroker? Daily driver? I have a 400+ hp (302) stock bottom end in my truck. Was going to build a stoker331, and probably will next engine with a blower. Do I need it? Absolutely not. Let me tell you..400 hp(350hp to the tire) in these little trucks can be very scary if you hit that go peddle at the wrong time!!
 

2drxploder

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This is what keeps us young Joe! I went with a 347 stroker simply becuz my bottom end was junk. I wanted heads, but budget, so.... maybe next year or 2. Personally for a 4wd I think a very close to stock 302 is plenty. I ran one (.60 over, not stroked, 4barrel, and headers) in full-size bronco, w/ 40's and 4.56 gears, broke multiple axle shafts and d.shafts. overpowering a 4wd toy will cost some money to upgrade everything else to handle power.
 

Cornexav

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Best fit for manual trans will be an M5OD-R2 from a 1997-2003 F150 4x4 with 4.2l V6
So I've got a guy willing to sell parts from his 95 f150. What all do I need from it?
 

RonD

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Not really a great 302/5.0l for this swap, it has a tall intake that won't fit under ranger hood
And I think it had a long nose water pump and accessories so longer length, but not sure

Manual trans shift would come up under the dash in a Ranger but you can make a custom shifter arm to clear the dash

You need engine/transmission, engine computer and engine wiring harness, also spark system, should be part of wiring harness but separate module

Up to you really, I don't know that much about the 1995 F-series, just thats is nothing like a 1996-2001 Explorer 302 setup, lol
 

Cornexav

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I've got other intakes that should fit on there, as far as accessories I plan on deleting the ac and seeing how it fits. I believe I can get a shorter water pump no?
 

Shadowrider6661

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"Unsolicited Information" that might be of some use. You should check out 'Advance Adapters' for a lot of the parts you need to do the swap.
 

rubydist

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You basically need an Explorer version of the motor. So if you start with a F150 motor, you will need to change out the front accessories to those from an Explorer. That is mounting brackets for both left and right sides of the front, and the waterpump, alternator, etc. - all the accessories. And, you need an intake no taller than the Explorer one. And the cam from the F150 is really tame too - although its a lot better than the 1980 motor!
 

Bird76Mojo

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I'd use an 80 engine if I had one but would prefer an 82 or later with a one piece rear main seal and much prefer a 85 or later with a roller cam. I agree that the 80 heads were trash, the common E7TE Mustang/ truck heads are plentiful and cheap but a good upgrade. I'd even use late 60's 289 heads because the ports were better and the chambers were smaller for better compression. Avoid using rail rockers even if you have to buy hardened pushrods and guide plates to do it. The E7TE heads have pedestal rockers which work fine. I'd also recommend a double roller timing chain, the 80 probably has a silent chain which is prone to stretching and may have the retarded cam timing that was common in the mid-late 70's. Please don't go through the work and expense of an engine swap without rebuilding the V8.
I'd agree with most of this except the E7 heads part. E7 heads are garbage. Explorer heads and intake are where it's at for making power with cheap factory parts.

If you really want to do a V8 swap and make any power at all, I suggest finding a 302 from an Explorer. There are NUMEROUS benefits to using an Explorer 302.. Better heads, better intake, extremely compact accessory drive components... Otherwise, early 90's Thunderbird front dress components are also "low profile" but not as compact as the Explorer stuff.
 

Cornexav

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I'd agree with most of this except the E7 heads part. E7 heads are garbage. Explorer heads and intake are where it's at for making power with cheap factory parts.

If you really want to do a V8 swap and make any power at all, I suggest finding a 302 from an Explorer. There are NUMEROUS benefits to using an Explorer 302.. Better heads, better intake, extremely compact accessory drive components... Otherwise, early 90's Thunderbird front dress components are also "low profile" but not as compact as the Explorer stuff.
Seems like alot of people are telling me the 80 granada 302 might be a little big. I'll stick with it for now as I just had the motor laying around, I suppose if I do have to buy a different engine I will just go with a 351.
 


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