3.0 won't be slow

[ericbphoto]

I'm going to start this as an engine build thread to document my project. I have a 93 Splash, single cab, 3.0, M50d, 1354e, 8.8" rear, Dane 35 front both 4.56 gears and Aussie lockers. Now it's time to upgrade the power plant.

Last weekend I went to Ohio and picked up a '97 3.0l that @racsan had. The plan is to year it down and rebuild it to make more power and torque at lower rpms. Currently, my wish list is; supercharger, different cam, headers, port & polish heads and lower intake, and replace/ upgrade whatever other items need to be done to support this and maybe switch to an automatic transmission.

You might be thinking " why not do a 4.0 swap or 5.0swap or diesel swap or LS swap ?" or whatever your favorite swap happens to be. Well, I've considered those. In fact, up to two weeks ago, I had a Mercedes om617 turbodiesel sitting in my front yard that I could have used. Most of those swaps have been done over and over again and are well documented. I want to do something less common. Furthermore, I know the 3.0 can be improved. There are parts available for it, some if them in my local junk yard. I know it fits my engine compartment because I have one in there now. Engine mounts are already figured out and installed. Also, I'm not looking for a thousand Hp. I don't want to severely overpower my drivetrain and break all kinds of other things. I just want a bit more horsepower and make that Hp in a more usably rpm range.

Here is my candidate for the build.

And here is what it looks like after today's fun session.

 

[ericbphoto]

This was on borrowed time. Gear is worn pretty good.

Valve train is nice and clean on both sides

Plugs and injectors all looked good. It appears this engine was well cared for. I'll pull the heads after I get an engine stand.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Anything you need that can fit in a box out of the parts bunker, you are welcome to.

3psi off a blower at low rpm does amazing things on a dyno.

Also, I called RPMRon's today and ordered a set of stainless undercut swirl polish valves for my 2.9... He carries TONS of options for the Vulcan.





...get er done, and we drag race next Trail Ride

 

[8thTon]

Any idea how many miles are on it?

 

[ericbphoto]

Any idea how many miles are on it?

Don't recall at the moment I think he said it was just under or maybe barely over 100k. Not too bad. It's in a thread somewhere around here.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

It's in a thread somewhere around here.

...what isn't?

 

[racsan]

that engine had a bit north of 180,000 miles on it, (183k maybe?) I bought the truck it was in for $500, found that 1st gear was out (could start in 2nd and shift to D above 30) Truck had 3.45’s , was a reg cab longbed. I took the bed off and found a few frame issues. Made a flatbed for it and put it up for sale, one day I had it out in a feild and tried to donuts, endend up on its roof. Salvaged what parts I could and made back half into a trailer. before it was shut off for the last time I put stabil in the fuel and seafoamed it, I had changed the oil shortly after I had first got it. I still have the drivers door, hood, Title, VIN tag, grille and front bumper (plus all the parts from it that went into my ‘94 I drive now) Ive never thought the 3.0 was a bad motor, just that 90% of them in the ranger chassis are geared way too high, this engine likes to be above 3,000 rpm but with 3.45’s at 55 in o/d its about 1600, maybe 2,000 if you turn off o/d. My inital plan was 4.10’s and 235/15 tires. I feel I did get $500 out of it in useable parts and was glad to find the engine a new home, If I didnt have to come up with a transmission I might have considered it for my ‘94. I want to build a V8 ranger someday, but I need a better rolling chassis. Looking forward to seeing this build come together.

 

[ericbphoto]

that engine had a bit north of 180,000 miles on it, (183k maybe?) I bought the truck it was in for $500, found that 1st gear was out (could start in 2nd and shift to D above 30) Truck had 3.45’s , was a reg cab longbed. I took the bed off and found a few frame issues. Made a flatbed for it and put it up for sale, one day I had it out in a feild and tried to donuts, endend up on its roof. Salvaged what parts I could and made back half into a trailer. before it was shut off for the last time I put stabil in the fuel and seafoamed it, I had changed the oil shortly after I had first got it. I still have the drivers door, hood, Title, VIN tag, grille and front bumper (plus all the parts from it that went into my ‘94 I drive now) Ive never thought the 3.0 was a bad motor, just that 90% of them in the ranger chassis are geared way too high, this engine likes to be above 3,000 rpm but with 3.45’s at 55 in o/d its about 1600, maybe 2,000 if you turn off o/d. My inital plan was 4.10’s and 235/15 tires. I feel I did get $500 out of it in useable parts and was glad to find the engine a new home, If I didnt have to come up with a transmission I might have considered it for my ‘94. I want to build a V8 ranger someday, but I need a better rolling chassis. Looking forward to seeing this build come together.

Thanks for adding that info to this thread. I know I haven’t seen the cylinders and pistons yet. But so far it doesn’t look like 180k miles to me.

 

[88workcar]

I just ported my heads and lower intake and exhaust manifolds, intake is where it's main issues are. I have a Taurus upper and 65mm TB but have not installed yet. With just the lower, manifolds and heads done I do see and feel a minor improvement. As for now I have a rich condition happening when it gets up to operating temp. When that is fixed I will install the other parts.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Have wondered with all the 3.0 configurations if some manifolds, heads, etc are going to be better than others. I know even with the 2.9, theres a TON of variety to the lower intakes (I have 5 different ones on the shelf), upper intakes (own 3 twin throttle body and 3 ranger ones that are all different), throttle bodies (at least four known different ones), etc.

While pursuing this, you may have to JY a lot of different parts, and slap a DIY manometer together to figure out flow - very easy, shop vac, 2x4, and clear aquarium hose.

Bigger ports doesn't always equate to better flow... Learned my lesson on that one.

 

[Blmpkn]

Bigger ports doesn't always equate to better flow... Learned my lesson on that one.

It's all about that intake air velocity on an n/a

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

like this?

 

[ericbphoto]

I do have another upper intake at home. Don’t remember what year. It’s a late model with removable throttle body.

I read about some of the later models having domed pistons. They might be worth looking for.

 

[Blmpkn]

like this?

Close enough!

 

[88workcar]

Bigger ports doesn't always equate to better flow... Learned my lesson on that one.
It's all about that intake air velocity on an n/a

Correct, correct. I have been porting for years. This is normally learned the hard way.