2008 idle stop screw P2112 orange wrench :( ?s


rschap1

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Been trying to find some help...

My Explorer had been idling pretty rough, put plugs in hoping that would help, but same.
Looking at it today I thought it seemed like idle was just slow.
Saw what looked like a stop screw on the front side of throttle body.
Thought I might be able to adjust and speed up the idle 50-60 rpms and smooth things out.
Well...
I took the screw out and it looked like the thing had been driven way in and there was some of the bottom plastic area that looked like it had came right off.
I checked inside the threaded hole and saw small piece had fallen through.
Took the assembly apart and got the separated piece out of the idle adjusting assembly or whatever I should be calling it.
Took a little to get spring and all of it back but did it.
Replaced the adjustment screw to where I thought it was or close to it.
Went to start the Explorer with hopes of it running smoother but WAY WAY WAY worse.
A couple back fires and REAL rough.
Scanned to see P2104 P2112 and a couple other test not completed codes.
I see all related to idle and throttle.
Tried and tried to clear codes.
Unhooked battery.
Crossed battery cables.
Let sit for a while.
Let idle for a while.
But throttle still non working and little rough running.
I can get one of the check engine lights off but wrench stays lit on dash and no throttle.
Is there any way to fix this?
Almost seems to run good enough, but needs a big major code cleared now....?
Is the screw need to be set with better positioning?
Hoping to figure this out soon.
Can't drive it now.
Freeze frame from scanner below and some pics of what I am talking about.
Appreciate any and all help.
THANKS


Vehicle VIN: 1FM
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: PWF

Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 25.098 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 77 °C
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = -0.781 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = 0 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 4.351 psi
Engine RPM = 719.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 km/h
Timing Advance = 15 °
Intake Air Temperature = 34 °C
Mass Air Flow Rate = 4.44 g/s
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 = 0 %
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 = -0.781 %
Run time since engine start = 83 s
Fuel Rail Pressure (relative to manifold vacuum) = 39.806 psi
EGR Commanded = 0 %
EGR Error = 0 %
Fuel Level (From Engine ECU) = 89.412 %
Distance travelled since codes cleared = 0 km
Evap System Vapour Pressure = -94.25 Pa
Barometric pressure (from vehicle) = 13.489 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
PID: 41 = 0
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.169 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 15.686 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio(lambda) = 1
Relative Throttle Position = 1.961 %
Ambient air temp = 34 °C
Absolute Throttle Position B = 17.647 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 20.392 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 30.196 %
Accelerator PedalPosition F = 19.216 %


End of report.
 

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adsm08

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Ok, so rule #1 2 and 3 of fuel injection, also 4 5 and 6 for electronic throttle control is DON'T TOUCH THE IDLE SCREW. You have damaged the throttle assembly and now it will have to be replaced.
 

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Ok, now that I have a few minutes allow me to give you a more in-depth on how this works and what you did wrong.

You approached this as if it had a carb. Approaching an advanced EFI system like this as if it were a carb will get you about as far as asking a lesbian nun for a blow job.

You can't actually adjust the idle speed on this setup. The computer sets the idle where it want's it, and because it has complete control of the throttle what it wants is what happens. Nobody who matters, in terms of idle speed, cares what you want. Also, increasing the idle speed is not how you fix a rough idle. So that screw doesn't adjust the throttle plate, like it would have on a carb, or even on a fuel injected engine with a cable throttle. The plate is moved and adjusted by a little electric motor. The screw adjusts the throttle position sensor. When you turned it in you likely damaged the sensor. When you took the screw out you definitely damaged the sensor. That is why you don't **** with the screw, you don't take the throttle body off and move the plate by hand, you don't use harsh cleaners on that throttle assembly. All of those things damage the contacts on the position sensor. This is why you now need a new throttle assembly. So congratulations, this was a few hundred dollars worth of mistake that you just made.
 

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I was afraid of something like that
:(

If it weren't for bad luck...

Appreciate the help and advice.
Of course not what I was hoping to hear, but guess I better do some shopping.
 

rschap1

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Is it possible to replace the throttle position sensor now...?
Or does the entire throttle body need to get replaced as a unit?
If you had to guess...
I know that I probably haven't given all the important info but wondering if there is anything that can still be used, what the best, easiest, and cheapest repair is now that I know how bad I screwed up.

Thanks again.
 

adsm08

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I have not seen a service kit for the senor itself for that throttle body, but the ones that I have installed (Ford makes one for the 3.5 Edge) still depend on that screw never having been tampered with.

I would hit up a junk yard.
 

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Big Thanks

Back on the road finally.
Really appreciate the help !!!
Ended up getting a new throttle body.
Was still fearing the worst when I installed it and got ready to turn the key, but...
Instantly better.

Didn't realize and never would have guessed how I f'd myself playing around with that screw so bad.

Looking back I came up with a couple other questions I guess.
Wondering what really happens when I wrecked this thing?
Is it the throttle position sensor getting out of sync with the drive side ?

If one was to manually open the throttle body, like take your fingers and push it open in order to inspect or spray cleaner down the throat, would that damage and wreck the same way I did here?

VERY much appreciate the help
THANKS adsm08

BTW, posted same stuff on a few other Ford forums w/o much response.
Glad you were able to let me know the mistake I made.
 

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rschap1

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I did have one other reply on another site...
Someone said that they were curious what was inside.
So I took a few pics of the old one opened up and a couple of the new one
 

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adsm08

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If it is OK to move the plate by hand depends largely on the throttle.

Most Ford ones you can move them some, but you have to be very careful to stay away from the end of the travel. I have damaged Ford units following Ford's instructions for cleaning, which involved moving the plate by hand.

Almost all of the throttles used by GM and MOPAR will die instantly if you move the plate by hand. My understanding is that it damages the sensor, but I am not 100% sure about exactly what gets broken and how.
 
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fastpakr

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Just curious - is this a drive by wire setup or a traditional throttle cable unit with an attached TPS?
 

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All 4-door Explorers from 2002 up were Electronic Controlled Throttle Body, or "drive by wire". The OP's vehicle is an 08 Explorer, so yes, ECTB.

The pictures he posted were in large part pictures of the throttle control motor and it's gears.
 

rschap1

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Yep, correct.
No throttle cable.
Thanks for the more info on "what not to do" to the throttle bodies.
I know I will remember and never do anything like this again.
 


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