2008 4cyl 5spd wont return to idle

[RShrimp]

I just picked up a 2008 extended cab XLT with a 4cly and 5 spd. Seems to run great and have plenty of power. (I traded a 93 with over 300K) Couldnt pass up the rebates.
Anyway, one issue right now.
When shifting (when you let off the gas and push in the clutch)the engine just continues to rev for several seconds and then slows down very slowly.
To shift without a jerk you have to hold the clutch for 5 -6 seconds.

Is there a way to disable this feature? In the old days of carbs they used to put a little shock absorber (for lack of a better term) on the carb that made the throttle close slowly.

If the engine wont slow down quicker I am going to have trouble enjoying this truck.
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[zilla]

I have an 05 with the same setup too. The only time i've had that problem is when I hit the brake and catch the throttle with my foot.

Seriously though, being an 08 and all, i'd take it and get it checked.

 

[Engine7]

Same issue

I have a 2004 Mazda that does the same thing. Been to the dealership about 6 time, going next week for trip number 7. They say this is normal, I use to work for the dealer and talked to a buddy that works there. He said they all do it, and had no good answer for me??? So I know what you mean, I wish mine was like my old Nissan. Good luck, if you find something post it for the rest of us.

 

[RShrimp]

Thanks, That's exactly what I wanted to know. If they all do it then I wont bother with trying to get a solution from Ford. I guess I may be going to the chip guys and see if they can fix it. I didnt really want to chip this truck (If I wanted more power I would have bought the V-6) but ..........if they can solve this one then it may be worth it.
Thanks again!

 

[fixizin]

Sounds like a SAFETY issue... I'd threaten LEGAL action. Start a class-action right here on TRS... that ought to light a fire under Ford's lazy ass.

It's ridiculous to need an aftermarket chip on a brand new truck.

PS: When you look under the hood and have someone else operate the pedal, are you sure the throttle linkage is not hanging up?

 

[2.3slow]

you know there might be something built in to this engine control that does this for a reason. yes i too like to coast down hill with it in neutral because brakes are cheaper than gas. i work at an acura garage we all drive fords(our owner hates it because he owns a chevy franchise) and the parts counter guy has an 05 mustang 4.0 manual trans. i was road testing it for a state safety inspection and that car did it too. i was going down hill in fifth gear and the rpm was about 1500 put into neutral it went up to 2100 or more depending on how fast i was going. i dont know why it does that.


john

 

[Rammunition360]

yeah ive driven a few cars that do this...but speaking of carbs my 83 ranger does it to haha...of course the carb needs rebuilt but my dodge idles right down when in nuetral...im curious now lol

 

[Blue Danger]

Hey All,

I just bought an 08 Ranger as well with the 2.3L 5-speed setup. My truck does the exact same thing; I joined TRS to ask you all the same question. Sounds like it is somewhat normal, which sucks because I don't want to bake the clutch or slow-shift everywhere. I had a sports car that shifted quick before this so shifting slow is going to be annoying. I have a theory that they installed a lighter flywheel on the truck to improve throttle response and power with the automatic transmissions, neglecting the 5-speed as a result. It really just feels like they used a flywheel that's too light, not so much an ECU issue, though what do I know. It really does hold the revs though and I am going to badger Ford about the issue. It's not terrible, but damn it's annoying. I've driven Kenworth 18-wheelers that shift faster.

 

[Blue Danger]

Okay, so I spoke to one of the largest dealers in the area today. They said that the trucks do have heavy flywheels (I had it backwards earlier) so that newbies don't stall the truck, which in turn makes the truck hold its RPMs longer. He said that this is a common complaint with the 2.3L 5-speed and that the issue has gotten better with newer Rangers like mine. He also said that Ford makes or made a lightweight racing flywheel that you can install that will drop the RPMs much faster after engaging the clutch. Also, other aftermarket parts manufacturers were said to make lighter flywheels for Rangers that will alleviate the issue. Honestly, I am not surprised Ford designed it's manual transmission for newbies. Hardly any Americans know what to do with a stick shift these days, it's sad.

Personally, I am not going to mess with my new truck at all until the warranty expires, then I might ditch the seats and replace the flywheel with a lightweight unit to speed up shifting. In the meantime, I'll be shifting like gramps so as to not excessively wear the tranny or the clutch. All in all, I still absolutely love my new Ford Ranger! And when I hit 60,000 miles, I'm going to love it just that much more. I am definitely a proud Ford owner.

 

[Earl43P]

I'll bet you a donut that if you disconnect the VSS on the rear axle, it'll quit having that high rpm "problem" while rolling. Sure, the ABS light will come on, etc. but it will PROVE that the PCM is propping up the idle during shifts, while rolling, as designed.

Just shift faster.

FWIW, I hardly use the clutch to upshift on either of my trucks. You'll find that sweet rpm spot that lets you pop it smoothly out of gear as you let off the gas, then lightly hold pressure toward the next gear. When the rpms match, it'll snick right into the next gear, gas it and go. I do it all the time. 1st to 2nd can be tricky, but all the rest go like butter.

I think the "dealer" fed you a big line of BS with all that flywheel talk. If he were correct, it would act the same at a dead stop, which I'm certain you can confirm is not the case.

 

[Blue Danger]

Thanks Earl, but I'm confused about what you mean by "just shift faster." When I shift fast it is jerky and heavy on the clutch. Will the computer recognize my shifting style and adjust like some Euro cars do?

I understand clutchless shifts, I've done it with 18 wheelers for some time now. You just shouldn't have to do that on a new pickup. But, I'll give it a try and see what the RPMs do. Like you said, if they don't float up high after disengaging the gear then the dealer would have gotten it wrong and I should be looking into an ECU reprogramming.

 

[One Sick Puppy]

I'm not sure I totally understand this high-rpm issue. I'll be getting my 2008 2.3L manual Ranger in a couple days and hope I don't get annoyed with it.

 

[chevys]

Here is the answer to the hanging rpms.

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229423

Try it and you will like it.

 

[jax4bangin]

hey guys, after reading all the info in this thread i went to my friends shop and made a restricter plate by tracing the solenoid outline and bolt holes with a sharpy on a thin sheet of aluminum .. it covers the holes of the solenoid only letting it breath through much smaller holes i made wit a drill bit(dont remember the size but start amall u can always go bigger) bolted it back on the truck and it worked bitchen first try!!! i was so pumped, its way smoother to shift and u can shift way faster because the rpm drops much quicker.. it also sounds pretty sick jus revving it cause the rpms dont hang all day.. total time it took to take the solenoid off my truck, figure out wat i needed to do, make the plate and drive down the roar with a grin ear to ear was about 30 minutes!!!!!!!!!!!!! u will be stoked its like a whole different truck. let me know if u need any more info i know that was a lil scattered

 

[gordo]

My 2008 XLT 5M doesn't like the restrictor plate!

I tried restrictor plates with holes ranging from 5/32" to 9/32". The 5/32 thru 7/32" holes caused a "check engine light" after driving a few miles. The 1/4" and 9/32" holes didn't cause a "Check Engine Light"... However, the computer was never ready to do the emissions tests. I didn't go to anything larger than 9/32" because it was hanging RPMs again, with that size hole.

To see if your ECU is ready to run emissions tests, turn the key to the "ON" position and wait about 10 seconds. If the "Check Engine Light" flashes (8) times, the the tests aren't being run. Once I took out any of the restrictors and drove around a little, the "Check Engine Light" stayed lit solid when the ignition was turned to the "ON" position... this means the tests can be run.

I have an OBD II reader, and the "Yellow" LED was always lit with a restrictor plate on the IAC valve, even after you hit a reset. The code was P0500 which is "vehicle speed signal not detected".

If anyone else tries this, let me know how you make out. In a lot of States, your vehicle will fail inspection if the emissions checks are not being run - even if the "Check Engine Light" is not lit with the engine running.

I am back to letting off of the gas a second before pushing in the clutch to shift. That seems to give me the smoothest shifts. It sucks !!