2008 4cyl 5spd wont return to idle


jax4bangin

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yea i know where ur comin from. i had a plate in with the holes really small and i loved the way it drove.. it dropped revs really quick but it did trip the engine light.. so i kept makin the holes bigger untill it wudnt set off the light and the one i am currently runnin drops revs much faster than stock. not as fast as i wud like but like 20 times better than pushin the clutch in a few seconds after lettin off the gas.. u can actually shift normal
 


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gordo

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I am trying sumtin new !

Does your ECU do the emissions check? When you just turn the key, "ON" but not start the engine, and the "Check Engine Light" flashes after about 10 seconds, it ain't doing the tests. It should not flash. If it does, you'll flunk inspections.

I made a "blank gasket" using filter material (actually from a shop-vac filter ... that stuff is so tough you can't rip it - you have to cut it) which seems to work much better than any of my restrictor plates. I put it in between the valve and intake.

I have a whole theory about why the restrictor plates aren't working so good!
 

jax4bangin

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o i havnt tried that to see if any codes are thrown.. but my check engine light hasnt been on since a switched up the plates a bit(bout 3 weeks so far) my truck is an 07 maybe the computer system is a lil more strict or 08? but anyways wats ur theory??
 

jax4bangin

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whoa hang on a sec.. are u runnin the filter material with holes such as the restricter plate set up.. or .. no holes in the material, jus the material restricts it enough?? if so thats a great idea!! i gotta try somethin like that. is it trippin ur engine light?

.. its funny cause right after i had sent the message sayin my engine light was stayin off the dam thing goes on!! like it knew i was talkin bout it lol..
but yea im pretty bummed, i dont want an engine light showing. i just reset the battery to turn the light off but who knows how long that will last:annoyed:
 

jax4bangin

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i jus tried wat u were talkin bout like with the shop vac filter.. i didnt have a filter so i actually used a piece of sham wow lol.. it worked good on the test drive.. after a 10 min drive i took it back out to see how it holds up and it looked kinda tore up already so i dont think it will last.. i need to get some of the material ur talkin bout..

untill then im runnin the restricter plates...
o and i turned the key to "run" bu tdidnt start it, the engine light just stayes on solid and i did it for bout 30 seconds.. what does that mean?
 

gordo

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Filter media

What I used was from a Shop-Vac (Wet -Dry vac). Inside there is the sponge-rubber filter sleeve for Wet-Vac. Then, for Dry-Vac you add a big vacuum cleaner bag and a blue/gray filter-cloth that goes over the sponge rubber sleeve.

I used a piece of that blue/gray filter-cloth. It's designed to let air flow through it and it's tough - you can't tear it. I checked mine and it doesn't show any signs of abuse. I'll bet a piece of vacuum cleaner bag would also work OK.

My CE light has never come on with this in place - however the light will flash if I just turn the key on. If I check it after the truck has warmed-up and been driven around a little it won't. The fact that your light doesn't flash means that the computer has run the emissions checks - which is good.

Have you found that once you disconnect your battery, the back-lights in your radio won't work! You need to turn the dashlight dimmer control all the way down and then back up to "re-teach" it.

Beyond these little things, I really like my Ranger !!
 

jax4bangin

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dude thats rad i gotta get some of that stuff.. but idk bout the radio i got a lil alpine aftermarket one that i have to reset everything everytime i pull the ground on the battery.. pain in the ass! lol
 

SK33T3R

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I found this page through the use of google and was posting/registering to find out if anyone has found I definite solution to this hanging RPMs problem.
I own a 2008 Ranger 3.0 2WD Automatic Ranger Sport and I've had this high idle issue since a month after I bought it a year and a half ago. Many of you seem to be having the same issue with your rangers but mines the V-6 automatic and it still idles high. The RPMs are higher than normal whenever! When i put it in neutral (moving or stopped) it goes to 1500-2200 Rpms, when its in park it does the same. When I come to a complete stop it in drive it idles at 1200. I use to be able to hit the gas real quick and it seemed to clear out and the Rpms would drop down to 700 like normal. I've taken it to the dealer about 20 times with no exaggeration to get this problem fixed. I'm really regretting purchasing this truck seeing how I've had so many problems with it. heres to list a few:
2 inertia switches (both went out the first 3 days i had it)
AC Compressor Relay switch (less than 10 days after purchase)
Thermostat (month later)
Oil pan gasket (3 months ago)
Rear main Seal (4 months ago)
Alternator (6 months ago)
Fuel rail (which was damaged by a mechanic at Lake Elsinore Ford)
Inside the cab, both of the seat belt button adjusters have broken
Auxiliary connection on dash broke
ABS in rear was locking up
And it currently leaks oil. (coming from the rear main seal again)

And as of this morning my transmission keeps slipping causing the rpms to jump up 300 revs for only a second then goes back down.

Any ideas?

Its a great looking truck but im so sick of all the problems!

 
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jax4bangin

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i have herd of the 3.0s doin this. its a faulty IAC valve(idle air control) i have herd that the only solution is to replace the valve.. but u shudd check on the v6 threads prolly get more info on ur truck.
 

SK33T3R

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ya like i said i just registered and I am completely unfamiliar with this forum. I found this page here from google so i registered and posted on it before scanning the rest of the forum. I'm gna go post up in the 3.0 part. thx and sorry for the confusion.
 

jax4bangin

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its all good man good luck wit ur truck
 


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