2002 Driver side power window controls

[CorbinsRanger]

Greetings folks. Yesterday I rolled the window down and the &($^ won't roll up again. Nor can you operate the passenger window. The mirror and lock controls work fine. The passenger door controls work fine. I removed the door panel and then removed the window toggles. All wires look good with no corrosion and toggles have an audible click. I have read that the auto down feature is tied into A GEM module and this can be the problem. Is there anyway I can bypass this and get power to the window before it rains? Thanks for any and all help.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

Managed to get the window up...unplugged the pigtail at the window motor then ran pos and neg wires from the battery ino the the pigtail and up she went. So it is not the motor. I removed the boot where the harness goes into the cab....everything looks good. Wiggled and pulled them...still nothing. So...is it the switch or is the GEM playing silly buggers with me? Oh yeah....my test lite and multi meter are 30 miles away at my buddys place. Such is life.

 

[RonD]

99% of the time its the Master switch if drivers or passenger side fails

Passenger side working means Ground at master is OK, and 12volt fuse and window safety relay are OK

How power windows work is pretty simple
Both Motor wires are GROUNDED when switches are not in use
A switch disconnects 1 motor wire from ground and connects it to 12v, so there is a ground and 12volts, window up, if switch is pressed the other way, reverse polarity so window down

It relies on BOTH motor wires being grounded when not in use
The Master grounds the passenger sides 2 wires, so there are 2 wires from Master to passenger side, and it can control the passenger side the same way it controls drivers side, changes 1 of the ground wires to 12v
Passenger side also has its own 12v wire from window safety switch, so it can also operate that motor

One touch down has a relay and uses the GEM, so 2 failure points, plus wiring
And you can by pass it

Diagram below, looks more complicated that it is, just remember everything is a ground when not in use, lol

There is a tan/light blue striped wire coming out of the Master, pin 4, not 6
There is a red wire on the 2 wire motor connector

Cut the pin 4 tan wire and the Red wire, splice them together, one touch is by-passed

But I would replace the switch first

 

[CorbinsRanger]

Wow...I was hoping you would see this and reply and thanks very much for the detailed help. I was pretty sure those were the 2 wires I needed. It will take a week for the dealer to get one in. Took a day to source one..lol I think I will try the bypass and see how it works. Thanks again Ron

 

[RonD]

By-pass won't work if switch is bad

Cut wires so you can splice them back together in the future

 

[CrabGuy]

My drivers side window switch stopped working for both windows. My problem turned out to be high resistance contact at the switch due to corrosion buildup at the switch. I cleaned it up, sprayed it with contact cleaner and it's been fine for over 2 years now.

 

[CorbinsRanger]

That was my plan. Thanks again. $93 from Rock Auto...Shipping kills us up here. You can get them cheaper on the interwebs but they all ship from China and none of the pictures shows the bottom of the switch. Ford dealer said aboot $100 so that is why I want to eliminate the GEM before shellling out a hundred. and yes I will be very careful so if needed I can re-connect the cut wires. Cheers from Smokey Saskatchewan

 

[CorbinsRanger]

My drivers side window switch stopped working for both windows. My problem turned out to be high resistance contact at the switch due to corrosion buildup at the switch. I cleaned it up, sprayed it with contact cleaner and it's been fine for over 2 years now.

View attachment 92568

Wow....my was squeaky clean but dusty. Sprayed it down and polished it up.