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2.9/4.0


fordmandan87

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I have a 92 ranger with a 2.9, and a fm146. well I got to thinking today and i was wondering if you can use the ignition from the 2.9 with a 4.0. I looked up the firing order and it is the same, and the cam synchro gear is the same as a distributer gear(I beleive). If I use the speed density system on a 2.9 would the 4.0 work in theory?
 
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AllanD

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on a 1992 it would be silly to try doing it that way.

the proper wiring harness exsists to run a 4.0 into your truck.
all you need to do is take your 2.9 harness out and put the 4.0 wiring harness IN.

If you can't find a wiring harness locally make a post in the parts
wanted forum and one of the junkyard vultures will aquire one for you.

The Distributor, it's pickup and the TFI module in specific are all weak links to the 2.9 engine.

the EDIS6 (coil pack) ignition system is virtually immune to water
in the engine compartment.

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fordmandan87

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thanks allan I just wanted a distibuter with my 4.0 and it seemed like a natural extension 2.9 - 4.0. as far as the harnes goes i have it but i want to be different, know what I mean
 

AllanD

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Being "different" is overrated.

It also makes things harder to diagnose when something stops working.

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fordmandan87

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will, can you explain this run of the species
 

AllanD

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you are trading away reliability for being different.

Negative

you are trading away easy to work on for Royal frikkin Pain in
the A$$ to SEE let alone work on (in the very unlikely event
you'll ever need to work on it)

Just to be different...

Negative.

You are going to force yourself to custom wire it rather than use an exsisting wiring harness you can get atleast one of from each junkyard in the country...

Negative.

when I did my 4.0 swap on an '87 I did some things differently than the
easiest way, the difference is I knew EXACTLY what I was doing it and
had rather fixed ideas about WHY I wanted to do things that exact way
and the fact is I likely have a better grasp of not only the theory of operation
of the entire engine management system, but the actual path each of
the wires follows to get where it's going while blindfolded and suffering from
both a toothache AND a Hangover than any three people here even if all of
them were handed the "H" manual, the wiring diagram and an EVTM.

and thus I don't need to ask anyone for help to figuire out a problem
I MAY need tsomeone to cycle a switch while I do my diagnostics....

After literally spending almost a month completely reiring my truck,
literally from bumper to bumper, I reached the poin where I turned on the key
and there was ONE fault in the whole truck.

a ground screw had been left loose next to the PCM, this disabled
the fuel pump relay, it was the only electrical reason why the truck
wouldn't fire on the first attempt

this was after taking a 1987 supercab stripping every inch of wire out of it
swapping a 2.9 out for a 1993 4.0 in, ADDING Cruise control, ADDING A/C,
ADDING a relay isolation system for the rear lights and trailer connector
ADDING Dual tanks (and the required control wiring) and while I was having
a relaxed moment I completely replaced my entertainment system and rewired
the power feed for my THREE communications radios


Doesn't that sound like fun?

Ok now you do it....

Joking aside when I offer advice on HOW something Should be done
I am offering advise on what I believe is the simplest, shortest most
direct path to the stated goal of the person asking the question.

I really am trying to make it easy on you, the EDIS is by FAR the easiest
way to make a 4.0 run and run RIGHT and STAY running "right"

In nearly two years running a 4.0 the biggest problems I've had
were a plugged radiator and the minute exhaust leak I'm chasing now...

Not to be rude, insulting or patronizing, just trying to convey a simple fact
that if you had the knowledge to get "Fancy" with your engine swap you
wouldn't have asked the question you did in the first place.

The EASY way is to find a 1990-92 4.0 Ranger start at the passenger side kick panel, unbolt the computer disconnect the cable, disconnect the heater power connector
and the fuel inertia swtch, shove the connectors throught he firewall and work your way around the engine bay from right rear cornet to the round firewall plug
and take every inch of wire under the hood,

swap the 4,0 into your engine bay and "roll" that harness into your truck
as you "peel" the old one out.

IT's just so easy to do it that way you'll be amazed....

No fuss, no muss, no hastle...

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fordmandan87

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well alan i have not yet swapped an engine on my own before but as of now it was just an idea that might have worked. I can understand your position as it would seem to you that i am just some dumb shit that reads crap on the internet and figures that oh it will work. this is not the case. I am at the end of my ford asset training and i am one of the types that will think of the wierdest stuff imaginable (which i suppose is obvious now) This thread was meant to see if in theory it was possible(I probably said it before but i want to repeat my self on this). I have limited experience with the 2.9's pros and cons but I do have experience with the 4.0's. Quite frankly I like distributers better than edis systems. I would love to to the 5.0 swap but I dont have any engines lying around right now. I have a spare 4.0 that I could experiment with and I also realize if it did work changing the cap and rotor on it will probably be as bitchy as doing one on a blazer(mid size) with a 4.3. furthermore my idea was to use the 2.9 computer and harness on the 4.0. (the idea being that on board diagnostics will be the same as the 2.9 but have 4.0 power.) I was going to use the oem wiring diagrams to make it work as well as easy to diagnose as the original 2.9.
Alan there is no hard feelings on this side of the key board and I can agree whole heartedly with your signature(but that is probably another conversation for another thread)
 

Hahnsb2

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You don't have much experience with 2.9s yet you want to use their inferior technology on an engine that vastly improved on it? OBDI is OBDI, pulling codes with a 4.0 is the same as a 2.9. You're creating nothing but problems and going backwards at the same time.All you need for a 4.0 swap is the engine harness, it just plugs in and you're good to go, you have it easy and you're trying to make it harder on yourself.
 

fordmandan87

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what makes it so inferior? can any body tell me why by explaining it and not just saying its bad, hell i can do that. what goes bad in em and what is the main cause(s) of the failures or failure?
 
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rickcdewitt

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wow,this truck won't be going any time soon.
 

canyoncritter

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wont work, for one reason, you can not get a dist. to clear the 4.oL upper intake.
besides your beter off with the crank trigger/coil pack set up.

if your hell bent on this, talk to tom morana, he has a carb intake set up for the 4.0L, intake alone is 500 and it may allow a dist to clear.
 

CopyKat

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Now if you want to be different get the 4.0L coil pack working on a 2.9L. instead of the distributor.
 

AllanD

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It is my belief that the system with the LEAST parts is best
And with EDIS the parts you lose are the distributor cap and rotor

Not to metion the grotesquely failure prone TFI module.

If you THINK you are tech savvy and you want to SWITCH to a TFI
based ignition system, I frankly think you are at best nuts.
At worse? I don't even want to speculate...

Hey, I've working on a way to put an EDIS4 a coil pack ignition system
onto a 2.3turbo, no not with a dual plug head.

I believe the dual plug head is inferor for turbocharged engines
because they were built for better swirl and swirl speeds combustion
which on a turbocharged engine is the absolute last thing you want...

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AllanD

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The manufacturers didn't switch to coil pack systems because they were cheaper or less reliable

The TFI module on earlier engines were so unreliable they were the subject of a class action lawsuit

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