you are trading away reliability for being different.
Negative
you are trading away easy to work on for Royal frikkin Pain in
the A$$ to SEE let alone work on (in the very unlikely event
you'll ever need to work on it)
Just to be different...
Negative.
You are going to force yourself to custom wire it rather than use an exsisting wiring harness you can get atleast one of from each junkyard in the country...
Negative.
when I did my 4.0 swap on an '87 I did some things differently than the
easiest way, the difference is I knew EXACTLY what I was doing it and
had rather fixed ideas about WHY I wanted to do things that exact way
and the fact is I likely have a better grasp of not only the theory of operation
of the entire engine management system, but the actual path each of
the wires follows to get where it's going while blindfolded and suffering from
both a toothache AND a Hangover than any three people here even if all of
them were handed the "H" manual, the wiring diagram and an EVTM.
and thus I don't need to ask anyone for help to figuire out a problem
I MAY need tsomeone to cycle a switch while I do my diagnostics....
After literally spending almost a month completely reiring my truck,
literally from bumper to bumper, I reached the poin where I turned on the key
and there was ONE fault in the whole truck.
a ground screw had been left loose next to the PCM, this disabled
the fuel pump relay, it was the only electrical reason why the truck
wouldn't fire on the first attempt
this was after taking a 1987 supercab stripping every inch of wire out of it
swapping a 2.9 out for a 1993 4.0 in, ADDING Cruise control, ADDING A/C,
ADDING a relay isolation system for the rear lights and trailer connector
ADDING Dual tanks (and the required control wiring) and while I was having
a relaxed moment I completely replaced my entertainment system and rewired
the power feed for my THREE communications radios
Doesn't that sound like fun?
Ok now you do it....
Joking aside when I offer advice on HOW something Should be done
I am offering advise on what I believe is the simplest, shortest most
direct path to the stated goal of the person asking the question.
I really am trying to make it easy on you, the EDIS is by FAR the easiest
way to make a 4.0 run and run RIGHT and STAY running "right"
In nearly two years running a 4.0 the biggest problems I've had
were a plugged radiator and the minute exhaust leak I'm chasing now...
Not to be rude, insulting or patronizing, just trying to convey a simple fact
that if you had the knowledge to get "Fancy" with your engine swap you
wouldn't have asked the question you did in the first place.
The EASY way is to find a 1990-92 4.0 Ranger start at the passenger side kick panel, unbolt the computer disconnect the cable, disconnect the heater power connector
and the fuel inertia swtch, shove the connectors throught he firewall and work your way around the engine bay from right rear cornet to the round firewall plug
and take every inch of wire under the hood,
swap the 4,0 into your engine bay and "roll" that harness into your truck
as you "peel" the old one out.
IT's just so easy to do it that way you'll be amazed....
No fuss, no muss, no hastle...
AD