2.8L V6 wont stay running. When running it hesitates. It hesitated when I tried to drive it.

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I tested it on the battery. I tested the posts to see if they were even getting power.
When I was doing my tests. I did it with my multimeter picks on the battery.

You didn't watch the video, did you?

 

[MadMax_636]

You didn't watch the video, did you?

I did. I My truck had a fender-mounted solenoid. My truck wouldn't even crank.

When I turned the key to RUN. All of the lights in the dash would go off or dim.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

When it clicks like that it is a sign of a bad connection or wire 95% of the time. A voltage drop test doesn't need the starter to turn over to work. You hold the leads on each side of a connection while current is flowing. If the meter reads less than 0.01V then the connection is good. So you would start at the battery neg post and check the connection there, post to clamp. Then from clamp to wire. Then from one end of the wire to the other end of the wire. Then from than end of the wire to the clamp or whatever has been crimped on the end. Then from that end to the block or wherever the wire is grounded to. Same thing is done on the positive side of the circuit. Watch the video again or Google " ranger voltage drop test" and find a vid that has the truck type you are working on.
Good luck.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: @alwaysFlOoReD was right. Bad connection. I pull the positive clamp and it was nasty. So I cleaned it off with a bit of brake parts cleaner and a brush. I clamped it on and bumped the starter.

I also her firing off. I had her starting and ran for like 3 seconds so I gave her some gas and she backfired from the carb. I did have to move the dizzy as far clockwise as I could. So IDK if that makes her backfire or I had to if I need to move it one tooth over.

EDIT: I was talking to a friend and he said that I'm way too advanced. So I gonna back it off and retard it a little at a time. Then fire the motor off. I might also get a starter trigger since every time I go to harbor freight. I tend to forget about getting it. I might as well buy new spark plugs.

 

[MadMax_636]

UPDATE: Ive got her running! Ive got to get the timing just right and then fix some carb tuning. The starter moved away and I verified that it moved based off some marks I made on the bell housing plate.

I do need some help on the timing. As the timing marks are hard to see and I need to know where to make a nice visible mark to put her at. Since someone posted a picture of the timing marks which helped but mine are REALLY hard to see. Mainly for the fact that its worn down and hard to see. Id be great to know where yall test yalls timing to I have a ballpark timing set.

 

[franklin2]

You need to figure out the best place to see the marks. Sometimes I will turn them so they are facing down, and then lay on my back and look up to see them. You can then take some very fine sandpaper and run over the marks to bring them out. Once you get the marks so you can see them, it should be self explanatory. You should have a TDC mark, and then a series of marks with a BTDC stamped in on that side. That is the side you want. Most of the computer controlled engines were set a 10 BTDC, and most of them I have seen have a deep groove in that position. I would then get some whiteout, and make a mark at the 10 BTDC groove. I then usually make another mark but only half-way across at the 12 degree mark. This lets me know where I am at and if I want to experiment later, which way to go to advance or retard the timing. 10 BTDC will be good for now though.

I never had quite understood what is wrong with your starter. You said the holes in the plate between the engine and trans were too large. But the plate doesn't position the starter, the holes in the transmission position the starter.

 

[MadMax_636]

You need to figure out the best place to see the marks. Sometimes I will turn them so they are facing down, and then lay on my back and look up to see them. You can then take some very fine sandpaper and run over the marks to bring them out. Once you get the marks so you can see them, it should be self explanatory. You should have a TDC mark, and then a series of marks with a BTDC stamped in on that side. That is the side you want. Most of the computer controlled engines were set a 10 BTDC, and most of them I have seen have a deep groove in that position. I would then get some whiteout, and make a mark at the 10 BTDC groove. I then usually make another mark but only half-way across at the 12 degree mark. This lets me know where I am at and if I want to experiment later, which way to go to advance or retard the timing. 10 BTDC will be good for now though.

I never had quite understood what is wrong with your starter. You said the holes in the plate between the engine and trans were too large. But the plate doesn't position the starter, the holes in the transmission position the starter.

Thanks for the explanation. Ill do that tomorrow. Ill try and find some sandpaper and whiteout around the house.

For the starter. The mounting plate (If you get under your truck or SUV since if you've got a bronco. Youll see a metal plate that the starter is pushed up against. Which acts as a ground and the mating surface for holding the starter in the right place.

Mine is worn out. As if the places for the ears is really pushed in from years of year and tear from the starter and probably over its years of having the starter removed and replaced. So, since the mating surface metal is worn down. The torque from the starter moves the starter away from the flywheel ring gear. Heres a thread on a 2.9 that's going on with my 2.8 https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/starter-engagement-issues.164501/

He ended up replacing that plate I mentioned. I cant find a replacement plate for a 2.8.

 

[RobbieD]

Whiteout works good to make the timing marks visible, after a good cleaning.

The separator plate actually does position the starter, but Max is dealing with a worn plate and stripped starter bolts.

 

[MadMax_636]

Whiteout works good to make the timing marks visible, after a good cleaning.

The separator plate actually does position the starter, but Max is dealing with a worn plate and stripped starter bolts.

I had stripping bolts but its got through bolts. Since one of the last owners already did the bottom and I did the top since It stripped out.

Do they even make or sell separator plates?

 

[RobbieD]

I had stripping bolts but its got through bolts. Since one of the last owners already did the bottom and I did the top since It stripped out.

Do they even make or sell separator plates?

I had to replace a busted separator plate on my '90 2.9L B2. I finally found one in a junkyard. I'm not sure if the 2.8 and 2.9 plates will interchange. I do know the 4.0 plate is different.

 

[AndyB.]

I wonder if you’d be able to helicoil the bell housing to mount the starter without through bolts. It might eliminate some of the play

 

[MadMax_636]

I wonder if you’d be able to helicoil the bell housing to mount the starter without through bolts. It might eliminate some of the play

whenever the threads were good. I still had to push the starter. The play is within the separator plate. the hold is bigger and worn down from over the years. Ill see if Ive got a photo of it.

 

[MadMax_636]

Older photo but a photo none the less.

You can see how the plate is worn.
Whenever I take the starter off. Ill take a better photo of where the ears are seated. Youll be able to see they are a bit pushed in more than they should be. Thats why I (In a other post) I thought of using the thinnest shims I have to try and take up some of the play.

 

[MadMax_636]

When doing the timing, Do I need to have the RPM up or at the set idle speed? Ive heard mixed things. Like someone saying you need to bring the motor up on the RPM and some say let it idle. Either on the choke idle or off choke.

When I was setting the basic timing. I set it off the choke. I did have to turn the idle mixture screws to richen the idle.

 

[franklin2]

When doing the timing, Do I need to have the RPM up or at the set idle speed? Ive heard mixed things. Like someone saying you need to bring the motor up on the RPM and some say let it idle. Either on the choke idle or off choke.

When I was setting the basic timing. I set it off the choke. I did have to turn the idle mixture screws to richen the idle.

Warmed up so the choke is off and at idle. And unplug the vacuum line to the distributor if you have it hooked up. Let it idle, hook the light to #1 plug and see where you are at. A little bit makes a big difference. So you should still have the distributor so you can just turn it, but it stays put when you let go. Once you get it set, turn the engine off, tighten the distributor bolt down fully, and then re-check with the light again.