1994(and others?) camshaft synchronizer install


jaymegriffiths

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Original poster: Jaymegriffiths

Difficulty:
7-9 out of 10 (depending on circumstances)

Time to install:
With engine out: 10-20 minutes
Engine in vehicle: unknown(estimated 45min)

Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

This method is for installing a camshaft synchronizer into the back of the engine.

Tools needed:
-razor blade
-ruler
-set of metric wrenches
-set of sockets (3/8)
-ratchet
1/2" breaker bar
-unknown size socket (for turning over engine)
If in vehicle:
3/8 extensions

Parts needed:
Camshaft synchronizer
masking tape
valve cover gasket (passenger side)

Step 1. Remove belts if still on engine.
Step 2. If not already un-installed, loosen and remove hold down clamp before removing Old plug or broken/malfunctioning cam-synchro.




Step 3. Remove valve cover
Step 4. Using 1/2" breaker bar, turn engine clockwise using the big crankshaft pulley bolt. bring engine cylinder #1 to TDC compression stroke (when both valves are closed). The #1 cylinder is the one closest to the front passenger side.
[/IMG]
Step 5. Using the ruler, cut a piece of masking tape 34mm long, exactly.
[/IMG]
step 6.
stick tape on the left side of the line on the crankshaft pulley and turn engine clockwise until the timing needle points at the end of the tape:






Step 7. Insert cam synchronizer into its socket in the back of the engine, at a 90 degee angle to the back of the blcok, with the c shaped piece pointed open end towards the driver side and on the far left mark.

since the gear is hylical, it will rotate as it goes into the engine and hopfully slips right into the oil pump. drive gear. If it does not, try wiggling it around it should drop in. replace hold down clamp, and make sure c shape lines up with the far right line on the sight glass now, perfectly, then tighten hold down. plug in and your done.
if anyone finds error in this please let me know immediately.
 


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ForOffRoadDriving

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i believe its a 22mm used on the crank pulley to rotate the engine if you want to add that to your write up. looks pretty thorough and detailed, nice job!
 
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jaymegriffiths

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i believe its a 22mm used on the crank pulley to rotate the engine if you want to add that to your write up. looks pretty thorough and detailed, nice job!
im pretty sure its 32mm. other wise ours is WAY off. 32mm should equal 26*.
thanks it took a ton of homework and im fairly sure there is no other writeups on the internet about this process. i have the ford mechanics instructions
 

hottpotato65

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great post!
 

brandonwfo

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hey man i followed your instructions on installing a cam synchronizer. i have a 95 ranger splash 4.0 i think i did something wrong. when i start my truck it shoots up to 3500 rpm and shuts off any help would really be apprecited iam lost.
 

PlumCrazy

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Bringing this thread back from the dead I know.

In the write up it says 34mm, but in his next post he says 32mm is 26*.

How many degrees (or mm) advanced does the crank pulley need to be when the cam sensor is lined up on the longer right hand mark?

Does anybody know if this is a legit way to set the cam synchronizer in the first place?
 

rlnation

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Hi, Just replaced my ranger camshaft synchronizer on my 1999 ranger without an aligning tool. I marked the position of the camshaft synchronizer and put everything back as close as I could. I then had Autozone clear the code and so far the check engine light has stayed off. If it stays off for good does that mean that the camshaft synchronizer is adjusted correctly? Thanks for any help you can give me.
 

rlnation

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I forgot to mention the truck is running fine.
 

reaper94

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Does anyone have a good recommendation for breaking loose the hold down bolt for the synchronizer? The engine is still installed so room for getting any serious tools on the head of the bolt are next to none. It seems only an open end or boxed end end wrench are my choices.
 

chrisser

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Does anyone have a good recommendation for breaking loose the hold down bolt for the synchronizer? The engine is still installed so room for getting any serious tools on the head of the bolt are next to none. It seems only an open end or boxed end end wrench are my choices.
I pulled a few recently at the junkyard. The bolts can be a little on the tight side.

IIRC, the hold down bolt is 10mm.

I broke it loose with a 10mm six-point box wrench to minimize the chance of stripping the head, and then used a stubby racheting wrench to loosen it the rest of the way.

Like one of these:



When it gets really loose, you can get a finger or thumb on the head of the fastener to keep it from turning when you want it to rachet.

I was on top of the engine with my knees on the radiator support to get back there.

BTW, if you're ever looking to scavenge one from the junkyard, some Aerostars have a 4.0. Pull the engine cover under the dash and it's right there, nice and clean and accessible. It's probalby the only thing (besides the starter) that's easier to get to on the aerostar than on the ranger/explorer
 

reaper94

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Thanks brother! I'll be heading out to get a stubby wrench early tomorrow! Funny yousaid you were on top of the engine, my wife came out into our garage and said what on earth are you doing up there?! LOL thanks for theinfo and the help! seriuosly this thing is killing me!
 

stecam78

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Ok, so the question here is do they make a tool for installing the cam synchro in a 94 4.0 exploder? I have tried several different ways that ford "technicians" have told me, and the thing still wont run right. I have gotten sick of pulling the upper off to get tot he damn thing. Right now I am currently ressurecting the thing for my son. I rebuilt the motor in 05, and could never get it straightened out, so it got put away and i moved on to bigger and better things. Now i am trying to figure this out, and it is driving me nuts. And as far as getting the hold down nut loose, i bent a 10mm box wrench to 90 degrees, and with the open end you can put anything in it for leverage. Works great! So i guess in a nutshell what i am asking is, does this work for a 94 4.0 and does the marking on the "window" on top of the sensor have anything to do with anything, or did ford just put that there to screw up morons like me who decide to work on these things myself?
 

stecam78

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OK. so I am holding the sensor in my hand with the connector straight up there are two marks one to the far right is a small mark one almost centered but more to the right a longer mark and then to the left of that there is an arrow pointing in a clockwise rotation which mark exactly are we talking about when it says line up with the far right mark after installing are you supposed to rotate the sensor to the left once it inside to make it line up with the far right hash mark or are you depending on the rotation of the sensor going into the helical gear on the cam to make up for this I don't understand exactly.please help.
 

Dippingspoon

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1994 4.0 camshaft postion synchronizer

This appears to be what I am looking for. However, can anyone lead me to a thread with a way to double check my work. I believe there is a way to double check using a volt meter. This method and, from what I understand, the volt meter method make the most sense. I putting a new long block into my 1994 4.0 and I want to put the camshaft position synchronizer in just right prior to installation. I have thought about having a mechanic come to my garage and do the work for me; however, I prefer to do things myself. It has also been my experience that most times I do a better job and it confuses others as much or more than myself.

Thanks :dunno:
 

gorgan.

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Just did this on my 95 this weekend. Great guide and my truck runs like a scalded dog!
 


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