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1986 ranger 4 cyl 2.0L

songboat

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Having been ill for an ongoing length of time my truck fell into disrepair. A well intended friend offered to rebuild the carb for me and it was running seriously rich. The snow where my exhaust exited was black within minutes when it sat and idled for no more that 2 minutes. Well he said he rebuilt the carb but it was still pouring out fuel and was no different than before he rebuilt it. He instead put a different carb on it. The truck was couching, spitting, backfiring and running richer and blowing soot out as it was with the original carb. I was 2 blocks from my house when a distinct knock started from the engine and I immediately returned to the house and it has been sitting here for several months.
I got the original carb back and it is repaired, I need to know where the vacuum lines connect, since I did not remove it the hoses and were not tagged as I would have done. I removed and cleaned the EGR valve and ports, they were completely clogged, unrecognizable was the port with the valve.
I am replacing the PCV valve and the locations described in the manual are not where I think I found mine. I think mine is behind the alternator, between the distributor and intake manifold. It fell to pieces when I removed it. The pic description includes more details. Can anyone confirm this is where the PVC valve is located?
The vacuum hoses are color coded and the emissions sticker was not on the truck when I bought it. Can anyone direct me as to what color attaches to what port as described in details of photo? I need to get this truck back on the road. Thanks
 

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Mark_88

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Howdy and welcome to TRS...

do you happen to have a shot showing the entire engine on the driver side?

I can tell you essentially the pcv connects to a hose that comes up from the block near the back of the engine (just below #3 intake connection) and runs either in front of or through the intake manifold near the distributor. Pretty sure it is in front of it but I haven't had mine together for a while...

Not sure if the vac lines on an 86 are anything like the 87/88...but I'd hope for your sake they are not...Ford was playing around with emission reduction and managed to add a spaghetti dinner of vac hoses that connected mostly to the lower intake, evap cannister, and air pump on the passenger side...

I also hope those are not power steering and A/C pumps...my 2.0 had enough problems just moving down the road, never mind trying to run those pumps...
 

songboat

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Well I took several pics I will get one if I don't already have one. Your description of the pcv route sounds like what I have pointed out that I thought was where the pcv goes. So the piece of metal that is still lodged in that hose should be removed? I believe it to be the bottom of the existing one. As I mentioned the top flew somewhere, I have a pointed valve (poppet?) and the outer spring that was slipped over it. I assume the bottom is what is still lodged int the hose now.
My truck is bare bones, no a/c, no power steering, or any extras. It may have come with power steering but it hasn't had any when I bought it many years ago. There are all kinds of elec. connections that are not connected to anything, haven't needed any of them so I'm not concerned as to what they may have once connected to. lol As far as all the vacuum hoses for the emissions you spoke of they for the most part were capped when I bought it too. My main concern is the color coded lines in the top pic, what is the name of the part I indicated? I believe (not sure) all 3 of colored those hoses (or lines) in the top pic came off the carb ports. I had the carb on and then took it back off because I forgot to connect the throttle linkage. With that removed I decided to remove the alternator so I could better view the pcv and I am glad I did because I wouldn't have known the bottom of the old one is still in the hose.
I am going to reassemble 2morrow, any advice on what connects to the carb ports would be of much assistance.
Also, Thank you so much for replying to my post. I really need to get this truck back on the road. If needed I will load some more photos of what I simply have no clue went where. In fact I just took another look at my carb and I will be loading some pics of my ports. My guy friends are wanting me to suffer a little before they assist, I have always repaired everything I own and nothing would please me more that to ride by their houses tomorrow night honk and wave at them. On of my sons friends in particular, hes a ford man and hes been advising me he would by it for scrap price for about 5 years now, this truck has sat in the barn yard for months at a time, and on more than one occasion. Every time I have needed it again I have walk out and turned the key and it has never failed to crank right up. Really is amazing and it burns ford mans butt. lol
 
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Mark_88

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Yes, it is always nice to prove them wrong...and my 2.0 that I bought from a guy at work seemed to sit in the parking lot more than he drove it...

Mine was butchered too and, try as I might, I could not reconnect all the vac lines. The ones on the carb (there were three on the front and one at the back, were all capped. I went from junkyard to junkyard searching for parts or even just something assembled so I could see where they went. This was all before I owned a camera, but I never did find one complete.

I had Ford download and print dozens of images of the 2.0 emission lines to no avail. A ford tech spent about an hour diagnosing things and finally concluded that the carb was OK...but it wasn't set up right (original Asian model carb) so I searched and finally found a carb (two barrel) and intake from a 78 Mustang II and installed that...had a total of three vac lines and ran like a champ after a little tweaking.

Most people follow this route and I probably should have done that right from the start...but I'm kinda like you and want things to work the way they should. It did run OK with the original carb but I was on the side of the road more often than I care to think about and when the price of gas started to rise I figured I should get something more efficient since I was putting over 600 km a week just going to work and back.

I also read so many posts about how the 2.0 is a fairly decent engine and can have more HP than stock with a few tweaks...so I foolishly followed that route and did attain some decent power...but the cost outweighed the gain considerably.

As for that part with the vac lines...I really can't remember, but pretty sure it had something to do with just opening a valve for the gas in the purge canister at start up...it just draws in the vapours and burns them to reduce emissions...which is done differently on the various carbs that can be used on this truck.

I would strongly recommend considering a different carb and intake, although there is much to consider...the 2.0 has round ports on the intake and mating that with an intake that can take a different carb requires some planning and searching...there are many posts on here about this very thing as many have tried and succeeded...in various ways...

Searching the site for carb swaps could give you hours of reading fun...and quite a bit of frustration...and there are some very knowledgeable people on here that can guide you through the rough spots...but trying to find specific information on the correct vac routing will take a great deal of luck...
 

tomw

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First pic looks like a vacuum control valve. Electrically operated, sometimes used to delay vacuum to the vacuum advance on a distributor, to control the evaporative system, or control vacuum to carburetor controls.
Second pic shows lower PCV hose leading to vapor separator on side of block. Yes part of the valve is still stuck in the hose. OEM Motorcraft replacement will come with a plastic elbow in the blister pack so it can be used on other vehicles, but you won't need that. The PCV is just shoved into the upper and lower PCV hose sections.
Pic #3 seems to be of a different truck, with PS and A/C. Not a 2.0. ??

I went to the library to access their subscription repair info site, EBSCO, and found a pile of vacuum diagrams. None were large enough to be legible. Your dealer should have the actual illustrations in their pile of old doc, if they kept the shop manuals. If not, you may be able to buy a replacement vacuum diagram decal from Ford. Maybe.
To know which illustration applies, you apparently need the "Calibration Code"

Here is a sample URL:

http://arrc.ebscohost.com/statics/p5/images/sm/isbn_graphics_complete/8967/chiltonimages/8555/85554054l.gif

tom
 

songboat

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The 3rd photo is the same truck before I removed the alternator. I tried to degrease it a little that is why it is wet. I also use the library connection it is quite resourceful. Mating up the carb with the intake is why I asked my friend for the original back. The carb I am putting on is the original. Thanks for the info and replies guys. You have been very helpful and I will have some more questions soon for sure. I couldn't help but notice that the 3 of us are all Libras. Good to know
 
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songboat

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Update: Instead of trying to find the right port for the spaghetti like vacuum hoses I took all but 3 off and capped the ports. It cranked right up. Tomorrow I will put the alternator back on and go for a ride! The "vacuum control valve" was the first to get capped off. Hope it cruises down the highway as smooth as it cranked up.
 

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back to the drawing board, please advise

My quick fix was not successful. I am starting over with more photos. The alternator has been removed for access to trouble areas.
the results of removing the lines was not successful. There is oil on everything now.
I have and need no more that the bare bones vacuum lines needed for the engine to run down the road. I know the distributor vacuum advance is a must have. Other than that I am not sure.
New photos indicate what, where and why in regards to connections.
 

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tomw

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First pic looks like the PCV hose with the valve taken out. The PCV valve sits in between two largish hoses, one to the oil separator on the side of the block below the intake manifold, the other hose leading to the intake manifold.
Second pic ???
Third pic farthest right is a 'choke pulldown', which opens the choke using manifold vacuum once the engine starts. The port on the base of the carburetor would work, I think.
Next to the left, the rubber elbow, looks like the vacuum source for the EGR diaphragm, right below it in the pic.
Last unknown port is unknown to me.
Fourth pic is the controls to the vapor control canister. It is a controlled vacuum source that opens the valve to let collected vapor from the tank get fed to the intake via the semi-stiff plastic tube. The left most end of the tube should connect to a port into the intake manifold. The circular dealey with two ports is the valve. Vacuum on one side to open.. maybe vacuum on the other to close, but you won't have vacuum with the engine off, so nix that. Vacuum may be controlled by solenoids. Could be the valve noted several posts back that was hanging in front of the intake, more or less at the backside of the alternator (green, I think)... After looking, it is enclosed with a red box in pic #2. I'd think one port had vacuum, one went to the vapor valve, and one port went to heaven. I don't know.
tom
 

songboat

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thanks for the advice, its raining today so will keep studying and wait for the rain to stop. You are right about everything so far! Not clear if I understand what you mean about the top (larger) hose in the pic but you are right, the pcv valve was seated in the bottom larger hose. I am going to take the carb back off so I can see the larger hoses and where the connect better. The PCV valve doesn't seem to me like it fits tight enough, think that hose needs to be replaced.
 

songboat

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PHP:
tomw
I took a few more pics, with the new pcv valve in place. Are you saying that the other larger hose connects to one of the ports on the pvc valve? If so it would be connected to the lower, larger port. That said, the hose is larger than the open port so I reduce the hose to connect to the port? right?
 

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tomw

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All of the PCV valves I have seen on limas do not have the double-tube fitting shown in the picture. The fitting comes in the box with the PCV valve but is not used in the Ranger. One end of the valve fits into the bottom hose, the other end into the upper hose. The fitting is not used, and may be re-purposed. The valve becomes almost invisible when installed properly.
tom
I do not get emailed when posts are made.
 

songboat

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update

Well I took your advice I have the pcv in proper place. I have vac lines in proper place, have it back together except forgot to connect the throttle linkage, so will do that in a little bit. I can't wait to crank it up. I can't imagine who put the plug wire in the wrong firing order, but even with that she ran, bad, but she did run. I bet with the correct firing order she will breath a new life, thank you so very, very much for very very good instructional advice.:yahoo::clapping:
 

songboat

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"tomw" and "Mark__88" and anyone else with knowledge about my 1986 4 cylinder, 2.0l Ranger. I have decided to buy a new carb. Want to be sure before I order it that this is the correct replacement for the one in the photo above. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1137462,parttype,5904
Or any suggestions on other similarly priced companies. I have heard good reviews about Rock Auto. will order is as soon as my selection is the correct replacement, verified from you fellas
thanks so much
songboat
 

Mark_88

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that carb looks like the replacement for the original and should be a bolt-on deal...just be sure to compare it with the original as some companies will not accept them returned if they've been installed...not sure about rock auto...they may be different so check with them when ordering.

I've seen these and installed one once on my truck...it ran good but I could not get the thing to idle properly...that was just before I found the Motorcraft 5200 and intake...personally, I'd suggest a 2 bbl...but only because I know they perk up the truck a bit better...not necessarily better on gas so if economy is a factor and you don;t have time to find an intake...your plan to buy the replacement is probably best.
 

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