1984 Conversion 2.8 L

[Sea'n]

Points Distributor w/vacuum and New Carb. The computer is gone. Right now, the problem is wiring. I never touched the solenoid. Was having a Short that prevented me from hooking up the Battery. I removed the 2nd wire from the Starter wire post on the solenoid and was then able to hook up the cables to the battery. Now the solenoid doesn't click when I turn the key to start. And the starter doesn't activate. I'm lost here. Not a wire kind of guy. Can't figure it out on my own. Advice please

 

[RonD]

Its actually a starter relay, but most still call it a starter solenoid

It has 2 larger posts, and one or 2 smaller posts, AND a metal frame that must have a good ground to inner fender, which must have a good ground to battery negative

The 2 larger posts are not specific there is no "reversing them" issue, BUT...............
They are wire "group" specific
One larger post will have the Battery Positive cable connected to it and a few other wires/fusible links with it, this is the MAIN 12volt distribution point for the whole vehicle

The other larger post can ONLY HAVE ONE CABLE, it runs to starter motor
As said, it doesn't matter which side is which, but it must be "group" wired this way


Smaller posts ARE labelled, "S" for START, and "I" for IGNITION

Only the "S" post is used after 1975 or so

"S" post will have just 1 wire, red/blue, it runs into the cab to ignition switch under steering column
When key is turned to START that red/blue wire gets 12volts and that activates the starter relay which activates the starter motor

This red/blue wire can have a Neutral Switch on it, so starter motor can not be activated unless clutch pedal is down OR Automatic is in PARK


You are not clear on what wire you had to remove, "starter wire" can mean smaller "S" post which should only have 1 wire, red/blue

Or the larger post starter motor wire, which also should only have the 1 cable to starter motor

The larger post with Battery Positive cable will also have Alternator wire, Engine bay fuse box wire, and Cab ignition switch wire, may have 1 or 2 more depending on Options

 

[franklin2]

This 2nd wire you took off so you could hook the battery up is a big clue. That must be one of the important small wires that feed the whole electrical system. Everything was good till you pulled the computer correct? So it must be something you did with that. I remember when I pulled mine there were some hot wires and a relay right beside where the computer mounted. What did you do with these wires? There were also some hot wires, one of them fed the solenoid in a vacuum line that went from the old carb to the charcoal canister. Is that wire still on the vacuum solenoid or if not, it's not touching anything it's not supposed to?

All loose wires, did you carefully tape them?

 

[Sea'n]

This 2nd wire you took off so you could hook the battery up is a big clue. That must be one of the important small wires that feed the whole electrical system. Everything was good till you pulled the computer correct? So it must be something you did with that. I remember when I pulled mine there were some hot wires and a relay right beside where the computer was mounted. What did you do with these wires? There were also some hot wires, one of them fed the solenoid in a vacuum line that went from the old carb to the charcoal canister. Is that wire still on the vacuum solenoid or if not, it's not touching anything it's not supposed to?

All loose wires, did you carefully tape them?

Yes...everything was fine before removing the computer. At first, I removed the wire from the starter. I was able to hook up the battery. When I turned the key I could hear the solenoid clicking. (Now)the Starter wire is connected and I removed the Orange wire from the positive side of the solenoid and the battery is hooked up... But the solenoid will not click. I am getting shorted if I hook that orange wire back up. I'm afraid my determination to rid myself of the computer resulted in cutting off the plug so I could pull the wires through the firewall. I don't have any loose wires shorting me out. The relay is out. I don't recall a wire in a vacuum line.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Can you take a pic of the solenoid and post it here?

 

[Sea'n]

Can you take a pic of the solenoid and post it here?

I'm trying. Got to figure it out. I'll be back!

 

[Blmpkn]

Once you take the picture... hit the highlighted button and you can upload from there.

 

[Sea'n]

I'm trying. Got to figure it out. I'll be back!

Can you take a pic of the solenoid and post it here?

 

[franklin2]

There should be a smaller wire with a large ring terminal on it that hooks to the large terminal on the solenoid that goes to the battery +. That smaller wire feeds all the electrical to the whole vehicle except the starter. Is that it in the picture to the right of the soleniod?

Go over again what happens when you hook that smaller wire back up.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^^

The orange wire is a Fusible link, it most likely runs to ignition switch in the cab, so if its disconnected there would be no 12volts to activate starter relay with key in START

That orange fusible link wire is only 6-8 inches long, it should be connected to a Yellow wire(or 2) in side the harness

There should be at least 2 wires on the Battery Positive post(besides the battery cable) on the starter relay
Orange wire for ignition switch
And another Orange wire to Alternator
Both are fusible links

They look like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kT0AAOSwN7Rj7Q3X/s-l400.png

A Fusible link is a "slow blow" fuse, it will "blow" but not start a fire, if there is a short
No "smoke show", lol, like what happens if a regular wire is shorted out without fuse protection

 

[Sea'n]

I'm trying. Got to figure it out. I'll be back!

up-dated photos here. Fusible link wires returned to duty. All the wires going to the ignition relay are just as they were when the truck was new. You alls ent me more info that I need to apply. Just wanted you to see where I'm at right now. With these wires hooked back up I am unable to hook up the battery. Dead Short

 

[Sea'n]

These wires are on the drivers side and go into the harness.

 

[RonD]

Unhook the alternator's wires and see if short goes away
1984 Ranger also used an AMP Gauge on the dash, these 2 wires come from engine bay and are hooked to the Alternator's B+ wire, one of the Orange Fusible links
The 2 wires are hooked to a Shunt, inside the harness going to alternator

Also what do you mean by "a short"?
There will be a "spark" when you hook up battery cable every time, that's the capacitors charging up in electrical devices

A short should blow a fuse or fusible link fairly fast


Vehicle(and home) electrical systems are wired with a fuse or fusible link at the closest point to the 12volt source

Battery---fuse----------------------------------------------------device-----ground

A 15amp fuse will use 20amp wire, so in case of a short the fuse blows before the wire melts

If a wire melts then its fuse was by-passed or short occurred on a wire between battery and fuse, so an unprotected wire, which should never happen, thats why fuses are put as close to battery 12v as possible, so no unprotected wires

 

[Sea'n]

There should be a smaller wire with a large ring terminal on it that hooks to the large terminal on the solenoid that goes to the battery +. That smaller wire feeds all the electrical to the whole vehicle except the starter. Is that it in the picture to the right of the solenoid?

Go over again what happens when you hook that smaller wire back up.

All these wires were hooked up. I installed the starter and went to hook up the cables. I could not hook up the battery. There was a short. I experimented and disconnected the orange wire from the Hot side of the ignition relay and found out I could hook up the battery. But the relay would not even click when I turned the key. Obviously, the orange wire has to be hooked up so I put it back. I have a short somewhere as I sit here. I posted some more photos a little while ago.

Unhook the alternator's wires and see if short goes away
1984 Ranger also used an AMP Gauge on the dash, these 2 wires come from engine bay and are hooked to the Alternator's B+ wire, one of the Orange Fusible links
The 2 wires are hooked to a Shunt, inside the harness going to alternator

Also what do you mean by "a short"?
There will be a "spark" when you hook up battery cable every time, that's the capacitors charging up in electrical devices

A short should blow a fuse or fusible link fairly fast


Vehicle(and home) electrical systems are wired with a fuse or fusible link at the closest point to the 12volt source

Battery---fuse----------------------------------------------------device-----ground

A 15amp fuse will use 20amp wire, so in case of a short the fuse blows before the wire melts

If a wire melts then its fuse was by-passed or short occurred on a wire between battery and fuse, so an unprotected wire, which should never happen, thats why fuses are put as close to battery 12v as possible, so no unprotected wires

I'm headng out to disconnect the wires from the alternator. (That battery post would get hot if I connected the wire to it.) Let me go see what happens.

 

[Sea'n]

I disconnected the wires to the alternator andd hooked up the neg. cable to the battery and I had a smoke show. That orange wire to the ignition relay is Hot.