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Faulty Fuel Injector causing mis at startup?


eightynine4x4

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Making progress but I think I’ve got to remove the master cylinder to get more access with tools.
When i unbolt the bracket that holds cylinder to booster, I see in the shop manual that there is some kind of push rod that goes from booster into cylinder. There isn’t much explanation about separating the cylinder from booster though…
What should I expect? Will a rod stay in tact mounted in the booster and just stick out? And then i can mount the cylinder onto rod when re installing?
Or will the rod come out with cylinder?
Reason I ask is becuse in shop manual they do mention that some adjustment of rod accessories inside booster may be necessary if the rod is disconnected for any reason. Not sure I want that can of worms right now ..
 


eightynine4x4

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Status:
Sawzall is still the way. Getting closer. Intimidated by what remains though. Those chunks do not want to budge.

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eightynine4x4

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I wonder how difficult it is to remove that section of the steering column for better access…
 

eightynine4x4

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I’m going to remove the intermediate shaft of the steering column to gain access for drilling out bolts. Shaft has a rag joint at bottom which seems to be held on by one bolt that clamps around a gear, and another bolt up top that seems to hold the u joint to the main column. Am I correct in thinking j can just undo both bolts (circled in yellow) and pop this intermediary shaft assembly totally out? And put it back in later without much fuss? Or will I be unleashing some sort of steering alignment demons…? Or worse… I wonder if I’ll give or take some pressure on one direction or the other, a desire for the column to be longer or shorter due to body situations, and maybe not be able to get it back on easily?

Also, I pulled the master cylinder off the booster and gently push it aside. Here’s a pic of the gunk behind it. Haven’t poked around much, but does this appear to just be crud to clean out and bobs your uncle and put it back together? Or should I be replacing something here? The fluid is probably just Deep Creep. Wasn’t easy to separate the two units.

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ABC700A8-3FF9-4107-82DF-FC42338AB938.jpeg
 

eightynine4x4

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Having a tough time completing the drivers manifold and whole Y pipe replacement and could use an opinion here..

Just spent a couple absolutely miserable several long days on it but got the replacements bolted up and there are (i think) no more spotty exhaust leak sounds (pff pff pff pff pff pff) after a bunch of re-bolting, but I've still got LOTS of smoke coming directly up from the new exhaust and a little smoke coming up the other manifold Y pipe connection (the new-ish passenger manifold which has been there working great for two years now).

I'm basically having trouble figuring out if it's Deep Creep and Super Clean burning off, or if it's actual exhaust spewing out from imperfect seals. You'd think that once you bolted something up to the point where there are no more exhaust Pff Pff sounds, that there'd also be no more exhaust smoke coming out.

Also... you'd think that if it IS just the Deep Creep and Super Clean burning off, the smoking would only occur when the engine is hot enough, and also the smoking would keep burning after shutting down the engine and last until the engine cooled down enough. Both of those symptoms are true in my case... No smoke at cold startup, smoking starts once engine is hot, then after shutdown it keeps smoking until engine cools enough, maybe like 5 minutes.

But here's the question... could that still be just plain exhaust? Does the truck not create as much exhaust during startup, and create more once warm? Or does it maybe take time to accumulate inside the exhaust pipes? And after the engine is shut down, would there be enough exhaust smoke sitting inside Y pipe to keep spewing out for say 5 minutes without engine running and eventually it's all seeped out? If not, then i suppose it's just substances burning off still.

I'd love to lean towards this being Deep Creep and Super Clean burning off, but holy hell it does not seem to stop. I mean it was a long project and I've used Deep Creep a ton when doing both the valve covers and the drivers manifold, but how long will it take it all to burn off? It's misleading my whole diagnosis of whether it's exhaust I'm seeing or it's just substance burn off i'm seeing, so i can't really determine if the exhaust is sealed fully. Driving me nuts.

I've started up the engine like 5 times and let the fumes continue for around 5 minutes each time, and it has not slowed down one bit. Just smoking and smoking.

So i guess my only real option is to just take it for a long drive and see if it's stopped eventually. But that really sucks, potentially driving with a major amount of smoke spewing up from engine bay on the road. It's not as much as an overheated engine, but it looks similar to it and I don't want to deal with police. It's also just scary, the thought that it could be something real bad that I'm not realizing. I'm weary of letting it idle forever too. Is it in some way possible that Deep Creep residue could ignite? I still have no fan, that's the next install. Truck seems to stay in mid temp pretty well though, new thermostat is doing its job. It's not hot enough weather for idle overheats, really.

After doing this manifold, I think i should have just pulled the whole top end and done the head gasket job for the sake of it and re-drilled the bolt holes on heads while off the engine, and done the top end rebuild including lifters. I just wasted so much time removing the manifold and doing holes from the horrible angle. :/ Most of that time could have been done puling the whole top. However, it still would have been a bear of a task removing the manifold, even with head off. I may have ended up buying two new performance heads just to be done with this manifold bolt situation forever, and maybe benefit in some other ways.

Once i have this exhaust completed, I'm doing to just conclude that my original reason for posting this thread, the wild lumpy startups, is not solvable by anything other than pulling the engine and doing a full rebuild. I've tried just about everything peripheral, except for replacing the oil pump. Startups are identical still, although engine seems to keep getting quieter every step of the way. Referring to AFTER crazy startups/warmups. I suppose I could do one last big project before pulling engine and try propping it for the oil pump. Anything sounds easier than this manifold business.

@alwaysFlOoReD
@rusty ol ranger
@RobbieD
@RonD
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Imo it's still burning off residuals.
 

RobbieD

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I also think it will be burning off residuals for a while. Drive it some.

Related questions-

Did you use new exhaust manifold gaskets when you reassembled it?

Have you done a glove test on the radiator fill at any point?
 

eightynine4x4

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I also think it will be burning off residuals for a while. Drive it some.

Related questions-

Did you use new exhaust manifold gaskets when you reassembled it?

Have you done a glove test on the radiator fill at any point?
Yes new gaskets. There is a chance that the lower part of manifold isn’t as tightly sealed as top part. Its a super convoluted story involving hole re-drilling, but that’s the short of it, and why I’m still trying to diagnose smoke. But manifold seal appears fine, and sounds good, but I can do one more thing to reinforce the lower part of manifold, it just requires ordering a certain bit and also screw, both of which can’t be found locally. But that’s all just theory, and if the smoke I’m seeing is only residue, then I suppose the manifold is on fine. I might still reinforce it though.

What’s the radiator glove test?
 

eightynine4x4

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Gotcha, well I'll consider it once I've got this exhaust stuff leveled out.
I have no other symptoms of head/gasket issues though, to my observation and referring to lists of symptoms and diagrams of what specific parts of head/gasket might be blown or cracked, and never found any symptoms.
It's a difficult truck! Once I'm done with exhaust, if the truck proves risky to drive I will have to just shut it down for a total rebuild and take my dear sweet time with it. I can't really handle doing just the top end, or just the oil pump, both major projects, and having it NOT solve the problems. Forget the heads cracking, I will be the one cracking haha.
 

eightynine4x4

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Thanks for the opinions everyone.

Idled it for a super long time and eventually the smoke started reducing a good bit. Took maybe 45 minutes, so temp was getting a little high. Then I took it for a drive so as to keep the burn off going but bring some wind into radiator. Drove for 45 minutes, got back and inspected for sounds of exhaust leaks and signs of smoke, and there weren’t any of either.
The manifold is still “weakly” connected in one section which I’m going to correct in a few days when I get the bit I need to finish the job, but I suppose the rest of the bolts are strapping it in hard enough that it’s all sealed.

It’s also nice to know that I have a whole new exhaust, and that the juncture between y pipe and cats is finally solved.

The ticking sound of the engine is quite different than it was some weeks ago before ripping apart all these projects. It’s less severe sounding. So that’s good.
 

eightynine4x4

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Am tidying up the engine bay a bit after all this work...
Anybody think it's a good/bad idea to install a basic NPT fitting Y-splitter of some kind, at the oil pressure sender location? I'd like to keep my oil pressure monitor installed in cab, but also not leave the sender wire dangling and have my dash OEM oil "gauge" always look dead.
I don't know how these sender switches work but I can't think of any reason why this wouldn't be ok, right? I mean i guess i could also install a little valve haha, and turn off the sender switch and see if it impacts the real oil pressure gauge. Lol.
 

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Commonly done. I just used a "T" fitting in my B2 to add a mechanical gauge line and keep the stock gage sending unit.
 

RonD

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+1 ^^^^

Commonly done to have 2 oil pressure senders
These one wire senders/switches use the engine as the GROUND to complete the circuit, so make sure to leave bare metal threads on all the connections for the pipes, i.e. don't get carried away with sealant/tape, lol, leave a few lower threads bare metal
 

eightynine4x4

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1989
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4WD
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2.5" Suspension
Tire Size
31 x 10.5 x 15
Commonly done. I just used a "T" fitting in my B2 to add a mechanical gauge line and keep the stock gage sending unit.
Perfect. That’s great news! Happen to know the thread size or splitter product #/info? Maybe I’ll just bring my sender switch to the hardware store..
 

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