- Joined
- Feb 28, 2001
- Messages
- 8,030
- Reaction score
- 4,367
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Dayton Oregon
- Vehicle Year
- 1990, 1997
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Type
- 2.3 (4 Cylinder)
- Engine Size
- 2.3 Turbo
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 4WD
- Total Lift
- 6
- Tire Size
- 35"
If you are going to work on a carb, those are the ones to play with, one moving part and like 2 fuel passages all big enough to clean with tie wire most likely, as long as the float floats and you get a new needle or seat (whichever is supposed to be rubber, one side should be supple, some carbs it's the tip of the needle, others it's the seat, sometimes both...). At least there's no diaphragms or fuel pumps or anything... if not familiar with carbs, do NOT start on a modern emission rated push mower, there's like 4 ball bearings blocking ports where they change machining angles that you can't get out and are definitely where goo gets stuck with no adjustment needles to open up to get any flow and you can't really do much of anything unless it's just some minor corrosion in the float bowl or someone dumb that left the cap off their gas can in the rain and got water in the carb...
For the sediment bowl, there's likely rust in the fuel tank, you could have gotten a chunk in the valve, might be able to blow air backward with the valve open and dislodge it, might not hurt to put one of those silly red shutoff valves for riding mowers on in the fuel hose worst case, they're like $2 on amazon...
For the sediment bowl, there's likely rust in the fuel tank, you could have gotten a chunk in the valve, might be able to blow air backward with the valve open and dislodge it, might not hurt to put one of those silly red shutoff valves for riding mowers on in the fuel hose worst case, they're like $2 on amazon...