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Farm and Garden

scotts90ranger

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Just picked up a 4' tiller for the tractor today at auction for $302.50 with buyers fee, it's a heavier duty unit, little rough but not too bad, I haven't seen a 3 point smaller tiller on craigslist for under $500 in a LONG time so as is it's worth at least that... there's a few tines that could use replaced but for what I want it'll work perfect... It's even adjustable offset so it will cover the tractor width... will be good for when I work up the yard over the next few years...
 


scotts90ranger

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Here's a few pics of before, during and after I pulled it from the F350... after it was sitting on the floor on the pallet I got it on I pulled the rear flap and beat it fairly strategically with an 8lb sledge and my rail road track anvil and a 2x4, it's slightly better than it was... Yes I was naughthy and didn't tie it down in the back of the truck for the drive home, but it was just 20ish miles, there's not jack for tiedowns in that thing...

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Josh B

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That's gonna be your rotor tiller?
You have quite a shop there Scott !
 

scotts90ranger

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Yeah, will fit behind my tractor, should help with some dirt projects. I have a walk behind that I got in the fall but I need to do some work on the engine as it won't run currently, just needs a carb rebuild and maybe conversion from point to electronic ignition but it's a beast of a walk behind, fancier than the troy builts...

Thanks, the shop is quite the work in progress, that stack of OSB is going to sheet the walls, I have one corner done, need to paint next, maybe start that tonight... the shop has taken up most of my time and money over the last couple years...
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Trying to see about a replacement carb for my Ferguson and it’s a real mess… the carb that was on it, if I’m understanding things correctly, is a Marvel Schebler TSX-33. Stud spacing where it attaches to the intake appears to be 2-1/4”

There’s 4 carbs listed on Yesterday’s Tractors essentially. Two of the Marvel design and two of the Zenith design. Stud spacing is 2-5/16” or 2-3/8”. None of them cross to the TSX-33 (unless I interpreted something wrong). The Zenith is supposed to be an upgrade but at $450, is a bit out of budget. Even the knock-offs I’ve found are $150. Not sure how else to go about trying to get a deal on one of those.

Not sure what to do about the carb I took off, I wouldn’t mind trying to rebuild it but I’m a little confused at this point.

Went down and checked the tractor and someone wallered out the holes at some point, appears to me that any stud spacing from 2-3/16” - 2-3/8” should fit. A new intake isn’t in the budget either (and this one has been welded back together at some point). I just want this thing to run for awhile and at some point I can dump real money into it…
 

scotts90ranger

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
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Tire Size
35"
Those up draft carbs aren't that complicated, should just need a needle seat and a bowl gasket (I literally made one out of a cereal box at one point) and cleaning the 1-2 fuel passages into the venturi and the one needle... but I think we were dealing with a Zenith, not sure on what you have...

Here's a couple pics, first is the walk behind I got last fall, it's an odd thing, has actual clutches for the drive and tiller not just belt clutch... and came with an 8hp Briggs. Second is the first pass I made with this tiller, the chain makes quite the racket with no load, I tightened it some (it was loose) but didn't help much, the output seal to the shaft does leak and I didn't check the oil level yet so I didn't go too crazy with the tilling... I was in first low at 1800rpm on the tractor which is roughly 1mph and at full depth (limited by the 3 point drop, maybe 3" deep or so not by what the tiller could do) it was all the tractor could do in some spots, it's a bit wet still. I can get more horsepower out of the tractor by revving it up and shifting the pto into a different gear (4 speed, one of my favorite features of this dumb thing) but then the wheel speed is faster so might negate any gains... If I get serious about tilling with this thing I need to either take smaller bites or disc first I guess... Conveniently as you can see in the pic the inside tire track is almost a foot offset from one side of the tiller, it does stick way out past the other side so it might be better if I moved things over some.

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lil_Blue_Ford

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Those up draft carbs aren't that complicated, should just need a needle seat and a bowl gasket (I literally made one out of a cereal box at one point) and cleaning the 1-2 fuel passages into the venturi and the one needle... but I think we were dealing with a Zenith, not sure on what you have...
Yeah, this one didn’t seem very complicated (Marvel), I split it open, cleaned it out some, but didn’t try pulling any valves other than the float valve (which apparently doesn’t seal right since it leaks). Made a new gasket and put it back together and it starts but won’t stay running. Stumbled on an 8N carb and it looks identical and has the 2-1/4” spacing so I’m guessing someone stuck an 8N carb on, which in a way makes sense, they are pretty similar. It’s going to need a way better cleaning and maybe some parts to use it apparently. I can get a knock-off of what’s supposed to be on there for $30, so I’m thinking if that at least gets it going until I can do something else, then it’s worth it.

The Zenith is supposed to be a much better carb for these and only my budget is opposed to it, lol.
 

scotts90ranger

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
If it were me I would just gamble on the knock off chineseum, it's the cost of a decent rebuild kit for most carbs and the easiest route, if it runs decent which it should just park it with the fuel valve turned off at worst, normally these up draft carbs have a sintered brass drain on the bottom in case the float leaks but gas isn't free anymore :)
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Here's a few pics of before, during and after I pulled it from the F350... after it was sitting on the floor on the pallet I got it on I pulled the rear flap and beat it fairly strategically with an 8lb sledge and my rail road track anvil and a 2x4, it's slightly better than it was... Yes I was naughthy and didn't tie it down in the back of the truck for the drive home, but it was just 20ish miles, there's not jack for tiedowns in that thing...

View attachment 88311View attachment 88312View attachment 88313
Don't forget to loosen the slip clutch and readjust it correctly. The clutches swell with age/moisture which reduces is ability to slip.

The PTO in your tractor will thank you if you hit something...

Trying to see about a replacement carb for my Ferguson and it’s a real mess… the carb that was on it, if I’m understanding things correctly, is a Marvel Schebler TSX-33. Stud spacing where it attaches to the intake appears to be 2-1/4”

There’s 4 carbs listed on Yesterday’s Tractors essentially. Two of the Marvel design and two of the Zenith design. Stud spacing is 2-5/16” or 2-3/8”. None of them cross to the TSX-33 (unless I interpreted something wrong). The Zenith is supposed to be an upgrade but at $450, is a bit out of budget. Even the knock-offs I’ve found are $150. Not sure how else to go about trying to get a deal on one of those.

Not sure what to do about the carb I took off, I wouldn’t mind trying to rebuild it but I’m a little confused at this point.

Went down and checked the tractor and someone wallered out the holes at some point, appears to me that any stud spacing from 2-3/16” - 2-3/8” should fit. A new intake isn’t in the budget either (and this one has been welded back together at some point). I just want this thing to run for awhile and at some point I can dump real money into it…
Rebuild what you have x1000

I sold ag parts from 2009 to 2021. I only ever sold one knockoff carb (for a gas JD 3020) Customer insisted he wanted to do the "upgrade" to the cast iron carb.

We had to go into the thing a couple times to get it to run right, it was a mess and took weird non oem parts.

Blow it all the way apart, be careful when you do it. Soak it out, run a wire thru all the passages and make sure everything is clear. Reassemble with a kit and make sure you have a fuel filter on it until you trust the fuel tank isn't fulll of debris.
 

scotts90ranger

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Engine Size
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Yeah, there was some bad sounds going on (and that was with the 3M work tunes on, it is a 2 cylinder barely muffled diesel...), although I'm very used to the PTO stalling the tractor (reed canary grass is the devil... roughly like foosball...), my tractor shenanigan's should really be done with at least 10 more HP... :). getting the PTO slip clutch working is on the short list and part of why I didn't keep going earlier... If I could find a Ford 3000 for a reasonable price I'd have one but I've either been broke or too late... other similar size tractors go for too much money, I'm not afraid of a diesel 3 cylinder Ford... as long as it's not a select o speed unless it actually works...
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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If it were me I would just gamble on the knock off chineseum, it's the cost of a decent rebuild kit for most carbs and the easiest route, if it runs decent which it should just park it with the fuel valve turned off at worst, normally these up draft carbs have a sintered brass drain on the bottom in case the float leaks but gas isn't free anymore :)
I replaced the sediment bowl/fuel valve recently and it won’t fully shut off. Of course, I didn’t get to it until after the return period. It brings it to a drip, so in theory the float valve should be enough to shut that off, but the carb I have won’t shut it off. May have been my fault, the valve was sticking and I tried cleaning things and may have inadvertently messed up the seat. Either way, it’s technically the wrong carb.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Don't forget to loosen the slip clutch and readjust it correctly. The clutches swell with age/moisture which reduces is ability to slip.

The PTO in your tractor will thank you if you hit something...



Rebuild what you have x1000

I sold ag parts from 2009 to 2021. I only ever sold one knockoff carb (for a gas JD 3020) Customer insisted he wanted to do the "upgrade" to the cast iron carb.

We had to go into the thing a couple times to get it to run right, it was a mess and took weird non oem parts.

Blow it all the way apart, be careful when you do it. Soak it out, run a wire thru all the passages and make sure everything is clear. Reassemble with a kit and make sure you have a fuel filter on it until you trust the fuel tank isn't fulll of debris.
Yeah, I’ll probably rebuild it at some point, was given another carb in pieces and rather rusty, might see if I can clean that up. Just don’t have the time right now to give this proper attention and I’m tired of it sitting, so I’m thinking of giving the knock-off a try to at least get it moving until I can do a more permanent solution. Since it’s about the price of a decent rebuild kit, and if it doesn’t work I’ll send it back, I’m inclined to roll the dice. When I can afford to, the Zenith carb sounds worthy, I just can’t spend that right now.
 

Josh B

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Yeah, I’ll probably rebuild it at some point, was given another carb in pieces and rather rusty, might see if I can clean that up. Just don’t have the time right now to give this proper attention and I’m tired of it sitting, so I’m thinking of giving the knock-off a try to at least get it moving until I can do a more permanent solution. Since it’s about the price of a decent rebuild kit, and if it doesn’t work I’ll send it back, I’m inclined to roll the dice. When I can afford to, the Zenith carb sounds worthy, I just can’t spend that right now.
I have a tub full of old carburetors if you're into rebuilds
 

scotts90ranger

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
I got a sonic cleaner which completely changed the success rate on some of the smaller and more emissions rated carbs, I just use water and dawn in it, the 10L version is a good size... but a sonic cleaner won't fix a dinged needle seat, I haven't changed many so no good advice on that either way...
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I have a tub full of old carburetors if you're into rebuilds
Ehh, I’m more of a “I’ll try rebuilding it if I have to.” Maybe after I have a garage and workshop area and all that might change. Maybe not. I don’t really know a whole lot about carbs but I’ll try just about anything once
 

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