1984 Bronco II rebuild the 2.8 or swap in a 302

[franklin2]

No, the M5ODR2 is for a V8. Kinda, 97-04 4.2 (which is a V6) F-150 fits the best, the shifter is the same place as a Ranger trans (earlier R2's has the shifter farther ahead) The 4.2 has the same bellhousing pattern as a SBF, just needs the holes enlarged slightly. Then it is fullsize t-case and custom driveshafts.

I have an M5ODR2 out of a 2004 4.2 F-150 in my truck.

Not according to this link. If this link below is correct, they had a version that fit behind the cologne v6's.

Ford Ranger Manual Transmissions - The Ranger Station

Model Trans Code P/N Vehicle Speed Ratios Mitsubishi FM132 D 1988-1992 2.9L 2WD 5-Speed Unknown Mitsubishi FM145 D E67A-7003-FA 1985-1987 Ranger 4X4 5-Speed 1st: 3.769 2nd: 2.210 3rd: 1.516 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.812 Reverse: 3.400 Mitsubishi FM146 D 1988-1992 2.9L Ranger 4X4 … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Not according to this link. If this link below is correct, they had a version that fit behind the cologne v6's.

Ford Ranger Manual Transmissions - The Ranger Station

Model Trans Code P/N Vehicle Speed Ratios Mitsubishi FM132 D 1988-1992 2.9L 2WD 5-Speed Unknown Mitsubishi FM145 D E67A-7003-FA 1985-1987 Ranger 4X4 5-Speed 1st: 3.769 2nd: 2.210 3rd: 1.516 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.812 Reverse: 3.400 Mitsubishi FM146 D 1988-1992 2.9L Ranger 4X4 … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

R1 is the V6 version. R2 is a scaled up R1 for fullsize truck 6cyl, V8 and supercharged V6.

R1 will not fit behind a V8 without a custom adapter plate... which would be a silly venture.

 

[franklin2]

This site claims a Mazda M50D-R1 will hold up behind a v8. Couldn't he get one of those transmissions, use an adapter, and then use his original transfer case behind that? Driveshafts probably would need modified correct?

Hopefully there is nothing much wrong with the 2.8.

So it would work. When doing these swaps, you have to decided where to stop the v8 parts and start using the ranger bronco parts. Looks like there are drawbacks to each way of doing it. If you use the driveshafts as the dividing line, then the v8 and all it's driveline parts take a lot of room up underneath. I wonder how short the driveshaft would be on a Bronco II with a all v8 driveline.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

So it would work. When doing these swaps, you have to decided where to stop the v8 parts and start using the ranger bronco parts. Looks like there are drawbacks to each way of doing it. If you use the driveshafts as the dividing line, then the v8 and all it's driveline parts take a lot of room up underneath. I wonder how short the driveshaft would be on a Bronco II with a all v8 driveline.

The R1 will not work for a V8. No way around it.

R2 is close to the same length as an R1/A4LD so it is not a big deal. With the right t-case you will end up with a shorter than original powertrain.

With the R2 and NP205 I had to have the front shaft shortened and the rear one lengthened.

The point where you switch to using BII/Ranger parts is NOT at the transmission.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Obviously a v8 is the way to go

 

[bobbywalter]

had some glue down there.....

 

[bobbywalter]

fawkin thing bounced through the big end too

 

[ranger1911]

No, the M5ODR2 is for a V8. Kinda, 97-04 4.2 (which is a V6) F-150 fits the best, the shifter is the same place as a Ranger trans (earlier R2's has the shifter farther ahead) The 4.2 has the same bellhousing pattern as a SBF, just needs the holes enlarged slightly. Then it is fullsize t-case and custom driveshafts.

I have an M5ODR2 out of a 2004 4.2 F-150 in my truck.

Sounds like that's the route I'd go with too. Wikipedia said that the M5ODR2 has an "integrated" bellhousing... Does that mean it's a one-piece deal? (not removable bellhousing?)

Obviously a v8 is the way to go

Haha! Made me laugh. I'm not looking to pull wheelies. I drive through a small mountain pass to and from work every day and something with a little more oomph than the 2.8 is what I'm going for. And more plentiful parts.

R1 is the V6 version. R2 is a scaled up R1 for fullsize truck 6cyl, V8 and supercharged V6.

R1 will not fit behind a V8 without a custom adapter plate... which would be a silly venture.

Yeah, the adapter plate kit is 300 bucks, and requires a 164 tooth flywheel bellhousing which seems to be 100-200 bucks. I'd rather go to the junkyard and pull a transmission / transfercase with that money and not worry about the M5ODR1 i have blowing apart because it's too weak.


Regarding driveshaft modification, that's probably something I can do at work if it needs shortened. Would have to be balanced somewhere else though. Could probably lengthen too, if I can find the right kind of tubing. We rebuild hydraulic cylinders frequently so there might even be something sitting around, or I could get some at the junkyard to modify if needed. Have a mill / lathe and welders at work. I briefly though about trying to make the adapter plate (we do have a good CNC mill too) but I don't think it's worth the time or hassle to try and use the BII transmission.

 

[bobbywalter]

i make driveshafts when i have too. you can get by.

4.0 is the way to go. i love the worn out pos 4.0 in my b2. its exploded several clutches....9 in rear ends...drive shafts....ass load of dana 44 shafts...and 3 transmissions.


but just one engine.


the 6.2 in my ranger. its pretty slow. but has better mpg.







you should do a cyclone.

 

[ranger1911]

4.0 is the way to go. i love the worn out pos 4.0 in my b2. its exploded several clutches....9 in rear ends...drive shafts....ass load of dana 44 shafts...and 3 transmissions.

This may sound silly... I like old stuff. I don't want to do any fuel injection because I like to tinker and adjust things. I like woodworking too and I try to use only hand (human powered) tools. I like old rifles. Old non computer controlled engine? Hell yeah, sign me up.

My wife and I just got our VW Bug on the road after working on it for a year. Rebuilt the engine, re-wired the whole damn thing because of the last owner's handiwork.

Got an old motorcycle too I'm working on. 1980 KZ650. I had a 2000GSX-R I bought for cheap but it came to me in crates and a rolling chassis with the engine in it. Got it all pieced back together and the electrical system gave me fits. Sold it and bought the old one.

I dunno. I like getting old junk cleaned up and working again. So I got an old junk engine that maybe I can clean up, fix, and get running again to put in my old junk BII

The 2.8 irritates me the more I work with it. I tried to do a compression test but can't because the tester won't screw into the spark plug hole (not enough clearance for the threaded insert's body to get in far enough to thread). Even tried the rubber nipple type but I can't hold it on and turn the engine by myself. I may end up taking the threaded adapter piece into work and turning it's OD down to the sparkplug's diameter.

Stuff like this makes me laugh. I tried threading into 3 different plug holes before I realized what the problem was tester worked fine with 4 different engines but not the 2.8, figures haha

 

[bobbywalter]

The 4.0 ohv eec4 is easier to work on then a carb. Tinkering is quite easy and varied too.


If you don't wheel it in complex terrain...you can put a carb on it.

Low end rivals or exeeds a 302. It makes much less heat...and is lighter. Àç is bolt in.

 

[bobbywalter]

Of course, if you desire 250 plus HP....sbf all day.

The 4.0 allows you to keep the power train in place so no driveshaft math and costs.... where any other choices require full power train replacement.....exceeding 300 HP requires a rear end too.

 

[bobbywalter]

And note.....I like simple. Look at my truck. It has a mechanical diesel and runs on used motor oil mix.


Tinkering is an understatement.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Exploder 5.0 Gt40 intake port and polished 3 bar or 4 bar heads, with a mild cam tfs1 or a Bcam and 24lb injectors will get you 300hp easily.

My first engine was decent the second one has alot more nuts.

M5OD-R2 very easy to put in with the motor at the same time. On a my truck You basically need to unbolt the radius arms and pry down on the suspension to get it out without pulling the engine also or without a body lift.

Not many mods needed to get to a decent daily driver.

Maybe,
My build thread has some useful information in it for you.

I have to update it to recently I put a T5 in so but I have like no time but Saturday to do anything.

1990 5.0 swap thread (project Jenner)

Dump. The. Clutch.

www.therangerstation.com

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Sounds like that's the route I'd go with too. Wikipedia said that the M5ODR2 has an "integrated" bellhousing... Does that mean it's a one-piece deal? (not removable bellhousing?)

Yup, one piece deal. 97-03 (and 04 Heritage) 4.2 F-150 fits the best. You do have to enlarge the metric bellhousing bolt holes to fit the standard bolts in a SBF.

Yeah, the adapter plate kit is 300 bucks, and requires a 164 tooth flywheel bellhousing which seems to be 100-200 bucks. I'd rather go to the junkyard and pull a transmission / transfercase with that money and not worry about the M5ODR1 i have blowing apart because it's too weak.

Mine was $150, if you like to tinker they are a fun trans to take apart.



Pack a lunch because they are a PITA to pull, at least the 4wd variant is because there is suspension stuff behind the t-case you have to remove. Also grabbing the separator plate from a SBF truck with the M5OD is advised (by me)

SBF Engine Seperator Plates

The whole thing came about when I tried to reuse the 4.2 seperator plate I got with my M5ODR2 with a '96 302 starter. The starter hole was just barely too small. The plate from my C5 was identical but didn't have a neat little foam seal around the crank. Faced with the rather terrifying...

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