acreature
Member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2018
- Messages
- 45
- Reaction score
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- Points
- 6
- Location
- Kill Devil Hills
- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hypothetically, just boil the can to get the pressure up?
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To this point it is also extremely important to note that PAG does not mix into R-134a the same way that ester oil mixed into R12. R12 had the ability to mix with the oil and become a lubricant itself, carrying to oil through the system. R-134a does not have that ability and instead it pushes the oil through the system. Not enough refrigerant and the oil collects in the accumulator and can't move back to the compressor. This is why it is so important that R-134a systems be charged properly.The compressor needs OIL circulating or it will burn out, the oil is in the "freon", the pressure switches are there to prevent system from "blowing up" i.e. high pressure from blockage, and from low pressure i.e. low "freon" levels which would burn out compressor from lack of oiling.
That makes sense. Thanks. I'll look into that when I can.The 12v runs from pressure switch to pressure switch then to relay base, then to AC Compressor
First pressure switch is at the accumulator, you said you had 12v there on 1 wire with AC switch ON
If you put that connector back on that pressure switch then next pressure switch should have 12v, not sure where that pressure switch is on your 1996, you have to look for it.
It will be on an AC line and have two wires like the first one, 12v IN and 12v OUT if pressure switch is OK
If the nest pressure switch does NOT have 12v then the first one is OPEN, not passing the 12v
Ha, not literally. My bad.No dont boil! just hot water from the tap is all you need, you can actually warm the small cans with your hands.
First pigtail has 12v. Plug that pressure switch back in and there is no 12v at the second pigtail/pressure switch.The 12v runs from pressure switch to pressure switch then to relay base, then to AC Compressor
First pressure switch is at the accumulator, you said you had 12v there on 1 wire with AC switch ON
If you put that connector back on that pressure switch then next pressure switch should have 12v, not sure where that pressure switch is on your 1996, you have to look for it.
It will be on an AC line and have two wires like the first one, 12v IN and 12v OUT if pressure switch is OK
If the nest pressure switch does NOT have 12v then the first one is OPEN, not passing the 12v
Its a Pressure switch, so should be 0 OHMS if there is GOOD pressure in the system.First pigtail has 12v. Plug that pressure switch back in and there is no 12v at the second pigtail/pressure switch.
Is there a test - resistance# I should check on the first pressure switch or is this just a replace the part scenario?
Its a Pressure switch, so should be 0 OHMS if there is GOOD pressure in the system.
High OHMs or N/C(no connection) if pressure is too low or too high, depending on what switch is reading.
Pressure switches can fail, but you determine that by hooking up pressure gauges to the AC system, reading the actual pressure in the system will tell you if a pressure switch has failed
Point taken.Yes, pressure switches can be changed without draining and recharging the system, but again, you can only tell if a switch is bad after connecting pressure gauges to the system.
So don't remove them until then