Removing oil pan with the engine in the truck

[Redlineracer12]

My 96' 2.3 has been slowly leaking oil for a long time now, but now that I'm driving it (gf's ranger ) I'm looking into fixing the leak. I'm thinking it's leaking where the oil pan meets the block towards the front of the engine. Everything from about the crankshaft pulley down is wet with oil, is there a seal up there that could be leaking? It seems to run down on the bottom of the pan and pretty much spreads all over everything under there.

I've read that the engine needs to be removed in order to remove the oil pan. I would rather just leave it in there if it's possible. If I lift the engine part way out of the mounts and support it temporarily will that give me enough room to get the pan off? Does anyone have any advice on the project?

I will also probably replace the timing belt, temp sending unit, and possibly the waterpump during this project.

TIA

 

[Capt Jay]

It might seem like a huge pain in the butt, but it's just easier to pull the engine and do it out of the truck, especially if you plan on doing the rest. Luckily they are fairly easy to pull.

Before you do though, you might want to just go around the oil pan an snug up the bolts and see if that takes care of the problem. After snugging them, clean the pan and see if it fixes the problem.

Not a bad idea to replace the timing belt, depending on the mileage. No reason the replace the temp sending unit if it's working. If the water pump is also working there is no reason to replace that either. On the other hand if you have the oil pan off, it's not a bad idea to replace the oil pump.

 

[Redlineracer12]

It might seem like a huge pain in the butt, but it's just easier to pull the engine and do it out of the truck, especially if you plan on doing the rest. Luckily they are fairly easy to pull.

Before you do though, you might want to just go around the oil pan an snug up the bolts and see if that takes care of the problem. After snugging them, clean the pan and see if it fixes the problem.

Not a bad idea to replace the timing belt, depending on the mileage. No reason the replace the temp sending unit if it's working. If the water pump is also working there is no reason to replace that either. On the other hand if you have the oil pan off, it's not a bad idea to replace the oil pump.

Thanks for the tip, will it come out with the trans(2wd)? I'll try snugging the bolts and see if anything changes.

The belt probably has 175k on it as its starting to show some age. I'll probably leave the w/p alone for now.

The temp sending unit has to be bad, the gauge in the truck never works right. The t-stat is working and the computer is sensing the correct temperature at ~190 warmed up. The gauge NEVER stays in the "Normal" range while driving, it bounces around all over in the lower area.

 

[Redlineracer12]

On a side note, part of the reason I wanted to remove the pan was to make sure it wasn't all gunked up in there. I get a bit of ticking sometimes when starting it cold almost as if no oil is making it to the lifters. Lasts maybe a minute before it starts to quiet down.

 

[Ranger44]

I wouldn't be a bad idea to take the waterpump off and take a look at it. Make sure the propeller is in good shape. It's only three bolts, and a new gasket is about a dollar. Also if you were to change the oil pan gasket with the engine in the truck, I think you'd have to loosen the engine mounts anyway, you may as well pull it. The timing belt is a good thing to consider replacing.

 

[Capt Jay]

If you do pull it make sure you change the seal around the crank. The are notorious for leaking. If I were to guess, I'd say that was probably your leak.
The temp. sending unit is easy to change and I don't think they are that expensive.
As for the ticking, It's a 2.3 they are supposed to tick a little. It's just telling you it's still running.
If it's running at the right temp. you don't really need to touch the water pump. But if you want to check it as long as it's out might as well. Like Ranger44 said it's a $1.00 casket and a hell of a lot easier on a stand.

 

[Dave R]

Everything from about the crankshaft pulley down is wet with oil, is there a seal up there that could be leaking? It seems to run down on the bottom of the pan and pretty much spreads all over everything under there.

There is a seal in the front where the crankshaft exits the engine. That seal is not that difficult to replace with the engine in the chassis. You'll have to take the front of the motor apart to get the seal "holder", I can't remember the correct name right now, out but you'd have to do that if you removed the engine anyway.

 

[Roger]

Just to fit in, yes, it is easier to remove the motor to pull the pan. There just isn't enough room to do it any other way. FOund this out the hard way a couple years ago. And I was replacing the motor mounts anyway.

 

[Redlineracer12]

I didn't realize more people were responding so I quit checking this thread

There is a seal in the front where the crankshaft exits the engine. That seal is not that difficult to replace with the engine in the chassis. You'll have to take the front of the motor apart to get the seal "holder", I can't remember the correct name right now, out but you'd have to do that if you removed the engine anyway.

That's what I was wondering... I'll give that a shot then before I even look at the oil pan Sounds like that would be easier to check out while doing the timing belt.

 

[Dave R]

Sounds like that would be easier to check out while doing the timing belt.

Especially so as the seal is behind the timing belt's crank sprocket.

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

did it in the truck in my 88..........would rather take a jack hammer to the family jewels than do it again.........pull it...

 

[Redlineracer12]

Especially so as the seal is behind the timing belt's crank sprocket.

Roger that, so is this called the Block front cover seal? That's the best I could come up with off the Ford Service CD...

I'll have to order up some parts from my dealership