Removing oil pan

[scotts90ranger]

That being said, whats the process of removing the valve cover? If i'm reading low pressure, can I just assume that the top of the engine isn't getting any oil, so I can just go right to the oil pump/screen?

if the oil pressure is low, the top end isn't getting any oil

 

[Mark_88]

if the oil pressure is low, the top end isn't getting any oil

That's part of the problem...he doesn't know if the oil is not getting to the valves...his sensor may be wonky...that's why I suggested to remove the valve cover, but, as per usual, I forgot about the TB and other things in the way since I don't have them on mine...

If he loosens the valve cover it could ruin the gasket (if it's the old style cork) but it would let him know if there is oil getting up to the valves...

Mine has the blue rubber gasket...and I know my pump is working because I didn't tighten the valve cover properly when I put the cover on about two years ago and it was drenching the back end of my engine until I cranked it down properly...

 

[FlyingFatass]

so i drove the truck around a little today. I bought a new pressure gauge and the pressure sender. I'm just having trouble finding where the oil pressure sensor is. the haynes manual doesn't mention anything about where it is. I found what looks like a sensor 6" below the oil filter near the top of the oil pan thats got a wire coming out of it. I didn't have enough time to figure out where the wire went or if it was even the pressure sensor.

tl;dr
Does my ranger (1990 2.3l) have a mechanical or electric pressure sensor? And where is it located?

 

[scotts90ranger]

it's just below/behind the #4 intake manifold port, it's electrical but just a switch, you'll need a tee to put another sensor in, it's 1/4" NPT

 

[AlaskanRider]

my compression tester uses the same thread, it was 40$ or so at napa. It threads right into where the sending unit does. My 91's sending unit is near the back of the drivers side of the head. I got at it from below the truck.

There is a schrader valve core threaded into the comp tester that has to be removed for you to get live information, otherwise it will just tell you the highest pressure.

Then you would eliminate any possible electronic issues, and know for sure if you needed to clear the intake screen, and it really makes sense if you already have one like i did.

Doesn't sound too good though, if your valves are starting to act up.

 

[FlyingFatass]

ok well i just got a mechanical oil pressure setup on today and its reading 0psi. the oil comes through the tube very sluggishly. I checked the fittings for any debris and the tube for any kinks, but all looked well. Guess that means im gunna have to pull the engine. >__<. I bought a haynes manual to help with the process.

Ill do it once school gets out, really busy with finals coming up. The trucks been sitting for the most part, but I'm going to have to make the 4 hour drive back home to get to my friends place thats got the engine lift and tools. Hopefully nothing will get damaged. (Would pouring a little oil into the engine every hour or so during the drive help keep the top end libricated?...I was thinking I might do this.)

 

[Mark_88]

Driving a truck with little or no oil pressure even for ten minutes can mean catastrophic damage...topping up the oil every hour wouldn't help much since you'd be on the side of the road within 20 minutes...unless, of course, you use a super lubricant that keeps everything moving even in extreme heat and lack of oil...

I put some Lucas oil additive into mine and managed to drive it home one night in -30 weather...all the oil was being dumped out of the engine due to a wonky piston and excessive blow-by...but the truck made it home and I was able to drive it the next day...but heard the "rattle of death" and the engine would mysteriously conk out...these symptoms are, apparently, the signs of a spun bearing...but I couldn't tell you what damage was done because I didn't take it apart to inspect it...

So, I'd say if you're going to have to pull the engine and you want to drive it 4 hours with no oil...be prepared to tow it about three of those hours and expect to have to replace the short block when you get there (short block means the lower end of the motor in case you've never heard of it)...

If you're a gambler...put in some super lube and go for it...but expect delays of your ETA...

If I could say otherwise I would, but it's unpredictable at this point what will happen...

 

[Rogue_Wulff]

I concur. 0 oil pressure and driving for even 10 minutes can equal severe engine damage.
For that distance, use a trailer, towbar, or wrecker. Only way to insure it gets there without killing the engine.

 

[FlyingFatass]

ok well i did empty a quart of the oil and put in 1q of that marvel mystery oil. Ill see about towing it back.

 

[Rogue_Wulff]

If you have added 1 qt of MMO, and it's just the pickup that is plugged, it *could* disolve some of the sludge just by soaking for a few days.
This is going on the hope of it just being sludge that has the screen plugged. If the screen is plugged from gasket maker, metal shavings, or Fram filter innards*, your only hope is removing the pan to fix it right.



*Many have heard the rumors of a fram oil filter dissolving. I've seen it in real life. Was NOT pretty......
I won't use an "Orange can of Death".