?s about wiring my system

[ForOffRoadDriving]

haha, no the cardboard was just a cheap way to make sure i didnt make the box too big the first time. now that its all bolted in it looks like i could have made it and inch or two deeper to get more air space. ive got more pictures of what i got done today, mostly just mounting the subs in the boxes, but the holes are real close to the basket of the sub that i had to use rivet nuts and 8-32 slot head bolts to secure them in. as for mounting my power distribution, it will go to the right of the amp on the drivers side, i glued an extra piece of wood to the back wall (youll have to look close to see it) and i plan on popping the cables out from behind the rear panel, into the block, and then right back under the panel. the ground cables are running to the studs that i put in the floor with nylon lock nuts securing them. im going to take my multimeter and check for resistance between the ground cable at the amp and the ground post on the battery to see if ive got good enough ground. im happy with how its looking so far and i really havent lost any space (my jack and wheel chocks still fit inside the cubby holes behind the speaker boxes). TTI shipped my parts today, so i should see them by friday. now i need to focus on coming up with a plan for running the speaker wires from the doors to the amps. heres the rest of the pics:

 

[baxtej44]

looks pretty sick, hope you get what you wanted out of them! ever consider carpeting the boxes? i suppose that would add extra thickness that might interfere with closing the seats though... just an idea...

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

i did think about carpeting them (i thought i had some left over from the last box i built a few years back), but then i thought i could also use the spray can bed liner to cover them with and help keep the resonance down to a minimum. ive been looking at these MTX subs as a replacement for my pyramids, but id be spending another 100-150 on this set up and ive already got more than i expected to spend into it. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-eHPL1CF4n6H/p_236T4508/MTX-Thunder4500-T4508-04.html if i do get these ill try to make my box a little deeper to get the minimum required air space for them so i can get the most out of them.

 

[RangerSVT]

Here's a trick for you that's commonly used....the more power you have going to a sub in a sealed enclosure, the smaller the box can be, the lower the power, the larger the box needs to be, and its vice versa with ported boxes, the more the power, the larger the box
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

so it sounds like my boxes will be fine by that logic, i mainly want to get the MTX subs so everything is matched (they look so good!) and so my friends will stop asking me what kind of subs i have (i sometimes dont even answer them, they were $8 a piece 4 years ago). ill see how these pyramids sound first, then obsess over these MTXs if im not happy.

 

[RangerSVT]

I promise you getting those two MTX's in place of those pyramids will make it sound like you have 6 pyramid 8's back there compared to the 2 MTX 8's
SVT

 

[rjppunk]

only complaint is with the pyramid brand, not a fan but other than that looks great!

 

[4x4fun]

looks awesome dude. one of the coolest builds iv seen in a while. bravo Zulu.
i love to see someone push the limits and do it correctly. as far as carpeting the box i would just paint it. and you can add some poli fill if you need it to be "bigger". and this is just me. but if you do replace the speakers. maybe some 8' JL's only cause they have that full screen meshish cover. you could paint the same color as your carpet and it would really blend in. kinda stelth. just an idea.

 

[RangerSVT]

maybe some 8' JL's...

x10000000000000000000000000000000000000...I have about 13 years experience using JL Audio subs and they are one of the most durable subs I have come across (durability to affordability ratio) While in a competition, they are the only sub that took four times their rated power and survived, actually I used those for over 7 months and then sold them still in great shape. No, these was not the top of the line subs, these were actually their entry level subs, the 10w0...The best part that I like about JL subs is if you want more bass, you don't need more subs, just more power. Anyways, enough of me rambling, your project is real thought out and well planned, great job
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

thanks for all the kind words guys, i do plan on upgrading the subs after i get it hooked up the rest of the way, but i think ill wait a couple of weeks after ive got it up and going so i will actually notice a difference in the quality of the sound. as far as the subs go, i want to stay under $150 for the pair (the mtxs are $52 a piece), but i wouldnt be shy about running some JLs, im just limited by the mounting depth (3.5") so my window of possible 8's has gotten smaller because of that. thanks for all of your help guys, you really cleared things up for me and i might not have gotten this far without your guidance. ill be sure to take more pics of the progress once my parts arrive this week.

 

[RangerSVT]

im just limited by the mounting depth (3.5") so my window of possible 8's has gotten smaller because of that...

Take a piece of 3/4 MDF or two pieces of 1/2 MDF if that is what you have, and make you a mounting ring for the sub, and attach it to the outside of the enclosure lid, and it will increase your mounting depth, as well as increase your sub options
SVT

 

[baxtej44]

Take a piece of 3/4 MDF or two pieces of 1/2 MDF if that is what you have, and make you a mounting ring for the sub, and attach it to the outside of the enclosure lid, and it will increase your mounting depth, as well as increase your sub options
SVT

great idea....

on my project, i'm thinking of routering the face of the sub box so that the sub sits a little more inside the box (if the interior space allows for that) so that the sub won't "stick out" so far.

 

[RangerSVT]

great idea....

on my project, i'm thinking of routering the face of the sub box so that the sub sits a little more inside the box (if the interior space allows for that) so that the sub won't "stick out" so far.

In your case, you will want to do the same thing, but mount the ring on the inside of your box, and cut where you would normally mount your sub the outside diameter of your sub, this way it will "flush mount" your sub, but will not sacrifice the thickness of your mounting surface
SVT

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

i had thought about that, but wasnt sure how it would look since i dont think i have enough carpet on the seat to cover the ring? i might be able to get away with using 1/2 mdf and painting the outer rim black if it doesnt fit under the carpet, but i guess ill worry about that when i get new subs.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

Ok guys, another question for you regarding the remote wires. should i wire them in series from amp 1, to amp 2, to amp 3 using the remote wire that is molded into the rcas, or should i run the first rca cables remote wire to a relay to control the other 3 amps? im asking because im not sure what the amperage out put on the HUs remote wire is and i dont want to overload it and cause shorting in the remote circuit.