Any new firearm purchases?

[JoshT]

I haven't seen it for awhile but Lucas gun oil is really good stuff too.

Check the auto parts store. I often see it there when wondering around, usually somewhere up near the registers.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Check the auto parts store. I often see it there when wondering around, usually somewhere up near the registers.

That is where i used to see it lol.

 

[Gunfighter97]

On the note of a gun you use often, as in train with (one you know you'll wear out), use new grease for aplications that demand it, but otherwise run your used motor oil through an old sock and use it. It's going to work just as well as any gun lube and one oil change is a lifetime supply for most people.

 

[JoshT]

one you know you'll wear out

Will never happen.

Even if it could... I would rather use fresh gun oil formulated for the purpose, or even fresh motor oil for that matter, than reuse contaminated motor oil for that purpose. The contaminates in used motor oil are so small that they are going to pass right through a sock. Even if you were to run it through an actual oil filter it would be too dirty for me to consider using it for that purpose. There's a reason the are replacing it in the engine. Sure most firearms are built to much looser tolerances, but still not going to do it.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Will never happen.

Even if it could... I would rather use fresh gun oil formulated for the purpose, or even fresh motor oil for that matter, than reuse contaminated motor oil for that purpose. The contaminates in used motor oil are so small that they are going to pass right through a sock. Even if you were to run it through an actual oil filter it would be too dirty for me to consider using it for that purpose. There's a reason the are replacing it in the engine. Sure most firearms are built to much looser tolerances, but still not going to do it.

It absolutely does happen, just not for shooters who don't use their guns. My current main AR is in its second barrel, third bolt and fifth cam pin. Sock is just to pull any large metal particulate or sludge out. It works just fine and non detergent oils (or formerly detergent oils) like used motor oil and kerosene are used regularly by most gunsmiths for a variety of different things. Firearms arent going to put nearly as much pressure on said oil, or get said oil to nearly as high a temps as inside of an engine. Generally speaking, guns deal with the same carbon contaminants that are already in the oil and generate those contaminants in a lot higher concentration than an engine does in its crank case through normal use. The only practical difference anyone will ever see with used motor oil is that it doesn't have the same rust inhibbiting properties that gun oil does, which for someone who uses their gun like they do a car, doesn't matter because it gets cleaned out and replaced regularly. As far as tolerances go, depends on what part of what design as to how tight or loose they are. For guns worth training with, they're generally produced tolleranced for the carbon build up common to firearms which is way filthier than the inside of any healthy engine.

My first AR barrel went roughly 15k of straight tula btw its all in the maintenance schedule.

 

[JoshT]

It absolutely does happen, just not for shooters who don't ABuse their guns.

FIFY

Most normal shooters, even those that train/practice with them regularly, will never wear out a gun. Those of us that own many and like to rotate through them, even less likely.

That is wear out a gun, not break a gun. Breakage can happen at any time and any round count.

Also note that I said normal shooters. That does not include people who like to mag dump. That does not include people that use their arms professionally. That does not include people that shoot their guns competitively. That probably doesn't include people that shoot the cheapest and dirtiest ammunition possible, which likely contributes greatly to the wear and tear of their firearm (although that could really be considered abuse in itself).

I couldn't give a crap about what can be done, or what you do, regarding gun lubrication. I said I'm not going to do it. Proper gun lubricants are cheap enough that buying it is a non issue, and your stated wear and tear record does not appear to be supporting your claims.

I'm not going to get into openly judging your choices. Just accept that we're different type of shooters and gun owners, but don't assume that it makes me any less of one than you are.

 

[Gunfighter97]

FIFY

Most normal shooters, even those that train/practice with them regularly, will never wear out a gun. Those of us that own many and like to rotate through them, even less likely.

That is wear out a gun, not break a gun. Breakage can happen at any time and any round count.

Also note that I said normal shooters. That does not include people who like to mag dump. That does not include people that use their arms professionally. That does not include people that shoot their guns competitively. That probably doesn't include people that shoot the cheapest and dirtiest ammunition possible, which likely contributes greatly to the wear and tear of their firearm.

I couldn't give a crap about what can be done, or what you do, regarding gun lubrication. I said I'm not going to do it. Proper gun lubricants are cheap enough that buying it is a non issue.

I'm not going to get into openly judging your choices. Just accept that we're different type of shooters and gun owners, but don't assume that it makes me any less of one than you are.

Look, I don't even know when to start with that, but you do you friend. Ive been in the firearms industry long enough to know when people balk and talk over things their obviously cluless about. Just know that if you actually use a particular gun regularly and think it will never wear out, physics disagrees with you. My job wouldn't exist if that weren't true.

By the way, nobody said following my advice was a requirement, and fwiw you weren't the one who asked for it. You responded with a claim that was very obviously uneducated, and all I did was counter it with logic backed by experience. Competition, duty aplications, (such as the case of who did ask for my advice) and using cheaper ammunition with a proper maintenance schedule, etc is not abuse. Overheating, not following an appropriate or edjucated maintenance schedule, storing firearms in poor conditions, storing wood stocked firearms muzzle up, getting them back out and using them with the old dried out lube, etc, is abuse. Most shooters have no idea how to properly clean the bores of their firearms, let alone use a chamber brush or disassemble the action. My advice was not for most shooters, so I'm not sure why you seem upset, don't expect me to tollerate it though, I was asked for my experience.

 

[pax]

I just grabbed a Kimber DS Warrior lately, dipping into the 2011 market a bit.

It's wonderful, only about 250 rounds through it so far and already trigger improvement.

 

[JoshT]

It's official, newest purchase made. Rugged Obsidian45. Got to swing by the dealer tomorrow to do the finger printing via the Silencer Shop kiosk.

If there are no issues with this one processing, I might go for a short light weight multi-cal suppressor to suppliment my larger 5.56 and 308 units. Probably 30 cal and run it on the smaller stuff too. The ones I have tork well, but primarily get used at the range due to size and weight (long and heavy). Would like a small supplimental unit for walking around in the woods that doesn't add a lot of length or weight on the end of the hunting rifles. Something I can thrown on my SBRs and still be as short as or shorter than a a 16" rifle.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I recently got my HR218 carry permit for all 50 states, as I'm retired law enforcement. I guess I'll be itching for a new pistol soon. I currently have a Police Service Six S&W .38 and a 3" S&W Chief .38 off duty. Circa 1985.

Here's a pic of my 1985 S&W .38 Chief - 5 shot Off Duty. I just recently found the wooden grips in the garage with my police stuff. I'm not sure if they make these any longer, but they are very reliable guns. Both of my 38s are in very good condition

View attachment 150357

I have a S&W .38 Special with those same grips that looks just like that, but with the normal barrel length. Mine was a WWII issue and used to be my grandfathers. It was the first gun I carried as a police officer. I recently looked for the original wooden grips but apparently forgot where I put them. I love the thing. I'm way more accurate with it than I am with my semi-autos. Also don't have to worry about it not cycling and feeding a round in a close contact confrontation.

 

[cmcolfax]

The M&P Sport 2 is a solid, ready to run out of the box AR.

The BCG it comes with is the "semi auto" version , your have to replace it with a "full auto / M16 cut" version if you ever wanted to run any sort of FRT.

All your other standard AR pieces and parts are interchangeable tho!

@superj if you can use rifles at your indoor 25-yard range (I can at the two near me) I've got a scanned image of a target with "scaled" target outlines on it that "simulate" 100, 200, 300 and 400 yards when set at 25 yards.
The need to be printed on 8.5 x 14 paper (I'm going to try to make another one to print at 11 x 17 too) but they work well.
I'll send it to you if you want.

 

[cmcolfax]

It's official, newest purchase made. Rugged Obsidian45. Got to swing by the dealer tomorrow to do the finger printing via the Silencer Shop kiosk.

If there are no issues with this one processing, I might go for a short light weight multi-cal suppressor to suppliment my larger 5.56 and 308 units. Probably 30 cal and run it on the smaller stuff too. The ones I have tork well, but primarily get used at the range due to size and weight (long and heavy). Would like a small supplimental unit for walking around in the woods that doesn't add a lot of length or weight on the end of the hunting rifles. Something I can thrown on my SBRs and still be as short as or shorter than a a 16" rifle.

The Obsidian is supposed to be a GREAT can.
What are you putting it on? Post a pic and video when you shoot it!

I'm not a big fan of "multi-cal" cans. I think there are more and more reasonably priced option to be able to have one for at least each caliber.

I've got an LPM Anthem K2 on my 8.5" 300 Blackout and it's shorter than my 11.5" 5.56 rifle.
I've got a B&T Print XH Hybrid SC on the 11.5" and it's shorter than a 16" with just a regular muzzle device on it.

(Pics in my previous post.)

I'm probably gonna order a Griffin Armament HRT 5K AM for my other 11.5 and eventually a Catawba Valley Armory Coyote for my 14.5 since the Coyote is only like 4.5" long and light AF. They are both <$600 too with LE/MIL/PS discount.

Probably leaving my 16" alone... I've got a can that is +/- 6.00" long direct threaded on my 16" 22LR AR and she's a loooooong gurl.

(Pics in my other other post! )

 

[cmcolfax]

Another build that got put thru its paces this weekend.

Roughly 400 rounds thru it at a Project Appleseed 25-Meter Rifle Clinic.



16" .22LR AR

Started with a complete OneHorse lower.

Swapped out the FCG for a leftover Aero Enhanced one from another build and the plastic A2 grip for a Hogue Overmolded. I like the way those feel.

Catch22 extended bolt catch with reduced power spring.

BoreBuddy buffer tube plug.

unBrandedAR upper.

RTB 16" 1:16 twist dedicated 22LR barrel.

CMMG bolt/bolt carrier group.

BoreBuddy bolt weight, hardened extractor, extra power extractor and firing pin springs and bolt buffer.

Radian Raptor clone CH from PeaceGeek with BoreBuddy insert
t filled with JBWeld.

15" slim/lightweight M-Lok handguard.

Mag-Pul angled foregrip.

Vortex Triumph 3-9x40.

FTN-5 style carbon fiber 3D printed suppressor from C4 Armory , a small local shop.

Ran like a champ!

If you know .22LR AR's you know they can be a little finicky; it took three range trips and another 200 rounds or so to get it dialed in.
Put another 300 thru it getting ready for the weekend.
And just for funsies, 40-grain subsonics are laughable. A handclap is louder.

Gonna swap out the safety selector for an ambi version Cerakoted blue. I found the instructors having to really stop and look to verify the rifle was on Safe. And I've discovered that I like ambi safeties.

These are 36-grain supers.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wy0xkez_3x1IhmydEDqzRdouC9jd3hUU/view?usp=drivesdk

Just for funsies, 40-grain subsonics are laughable. A handclap is louder.

 

[cmcolfax]

220-grain Subsonic.

It didn't cycle tho, you can see me

I guess you can call these "purchases"

Two of the four I've built over the past six months or so.

Left:
8.5" 300 Blackout
Started as a "complete" PSA upper.
Added a Radian Raptor clone CH from PeaceGeek and a Toolcraft C158 BCG.
Swapped the 7" PSA Handguard for an 8" SubZRO from ZRODelta.
Swapped the basic A2 Birdcage for a Wolfpack Armory Nighthowler.
Superlative Arms AGB.
Liberty Precision Machine Anthem K2 suppressor on a Breek Arms LP HUB adapter.
SBA-3 "brace" , MagPul MOE+ grip, AT3 Tactical handstop.
Monstrum ARES red dot.
unBrandedAR lower, AT3 Tactical tungsten cerakote hardware, Dirty Bird Industries NiTeflon single stage trigger with DBI stainless threaded anti-walk pins.
H2 buffer, standard carbine length spring.

Right:
11.5" 5.56
Aero Precision M4E1 Upper, Aero Pro Series Barrel and Black Nitride BCG, Aero Breach Large Ambi CH, Aero R-One handguard.
KAK Industries A7 flashhider, B&T Print XH Hybrid RBS SC Ti suppressor on a Breek Arms LP HUB adapter.
Bushnell TRS-25 red dot and Bushnell 3x transition magnifier.
Spike's Tactical "Calico Jack" lower with Spike's LPK and BKF NiTeflon single stage trigger.
MagPul AFG, MOE Stock, MOE+ grip, H2 buffer, standard carbine length spring.

220-grain Subsonic.

VID20261012171303.mp4

drive.google.com

It didn't cycle tho, you can see me look at it kinda funny.

I don't have the gas adjusted right YET.

 

[JoshT]

The Obsidian is supposed to be a GREAT can.
What are you putting it on? Post a pic and video when you shoot it!

I'm not a big fan of "multi-cal" cans. I think there are more and more reasonably priced option to be able to have one for at least each caliber.

I've got an LPM Anthem K2 on my 8.5" 300 Blackout and it's shorter than my 11.5" 5.56 rifle.
I've got a B&T Print XH Hybrid SC on the 11.5" and it's shorter than a 16" with just a regular muzzle device on it.

(Pics in my previous post.)

I'm probably gonna order a Griffin Armament HRT 5K AM for my other 11.5 and eventually a Catawba Valley Armory Coyote for my 14.5 since the Coyote is only like 4.5" long and light AF. They are both <$600 too with LE/MIL/PS discount.

Probably leaving my 16" alone... I've got a can that is +/- 6.00" long direct threaded on my 16" 22LR AR and she's a loooooong gurl.

(Pics in my other other post! )

I'm not going to get into the dedicated can debate. Get tired of that argument elsewhere. Simply put it isn't for me.

Even the Obsidian is going to be multi-cal use. As for what it'll be used on. 1911 45 ACP, Canik TP9SFX (9mm) with barrel swap, the 9mm SBR that I posted earlier in the thread, and my 450 Bushmaster AR. I want to add a 45 abr to the collection, leaning towards a MechTech CCU for a 1911 frame and chambered in 460 Rowland. I'd like to have a threaded 44 mag lever action, I inherited a Ruger 96/44, but no threading. It'll also work for subsonic 30-30, and would like to get mine threaded when I eventually refinish it, but the 30 can will cover that too. If I ever get my hands on a 357 revolver, there will be a matching lever gun and it'll be threaded too.

Aside from what's listed up there I don't own rifles larger than 308 (well a 50 cal muzzle loaders, but...), just not needed for where and what I hunt. I have "caliber specific" for 22lr, 5.56, and 308. I guess technically two of each, though I'm not too sure about the ones dad had. Not appropriate for discussion here. Aside from the 22s, they are all 8"+ in length and heavy. Sitting at a bench, even in the deer stand, they ain't bad. I want a single shorter, lighter weight can that I can use on everything 308 or smaller.