Adding 1st Gen PW PL

[85_Ranger4x4]

Anyone tried this? What all is needed to make them work? Can existing doors be used or do different ones need sourced?

 

[Jim Oaks]

I built a Bronco II once and converted it, but I started with a pair of Ranger doors that already had power windows and locks and then just ran wires to the doors to power them. I would imagine that you could remove the components from doors that already have it and add it to your doors.

You can also find conversion kits online. I just looked and Amazon has them.

 

[SenorNoob]

I've eyed those conversion kits for the wife's car. Since the windows like to roll themselves down when you hit a pothole, it'd be nice to be able to put them back up without stopping the car to reach the back handle.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I've thought about the aftermarket stuff but I don't know how great it is. If anyone has any reviews on that I am all ears as well.

Granted 40yo Ford junk isn't super confidence inspiring but in 10 years I know what motor I need to find...

And no matter what I want to use Ford switches.

 

[RobbieD]

I've thought about the aftermarket stuff but I don't know how great it is. If anyone has any reviews on that I am all ears as well.

Granted 40yo Ford junk isn't super confidence inspiring but in 10 years I know what motor I need to find...

And no matter what I want to use Ford switches.

Based on my experience in that business, from many years ago.

I prefer higher-quality aftermarket lock actuators. The best aftermarkets were originally Swiss-made, and then the exact same design became commonly Asian-manufactured. In the years since, when I've tried retro-fitting used OEM actuators, the fitment is fiddly and they don't seem to hold up as well as the older aftermarket ones. I've found that aftermarket is easier to install and more reliable in operation.

I've never seen an aftermarket "universal" power window kit that was worth a crap. I'd definitely source some good-condition OEM regulator and motor drive assemblies to transplant into the non-power doors. OEM units perform better here, and you have very, very good point on replacing the motor, when it becomes needed. I *think* that these OEM-style assemblies are available new, but new parts quality has gone to hell in a hand basket recently. I'd trust a good original assembly over a newly-manufactured one.

On an upgrade from manual to power installation, I'd also use OEM switches, and just make up a new harness, routing it around the front of the engine bay like it was done originally on the first and second generation trucks. OEM switches work good, are common enough (new and used), and they simply look the best.

Another consideration is, when doing this upgrade, it's also a lot easier to add remote keyless entry at the same time (which also expands your options on how the door lock switches can be wired). It would also be very easy to add a later automatic down module to the driver's window, if you're so inclined.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Based on my experience in that business, from many years ago.

I prefer higher-quality aftermarket lock actuators. The best aftermarkets were originally Swiss-made, and then the exact same design became commonly Asian-manufactured. In the years since, when I've tried retro-fitting used OEM actuators, the fitment is fiddly and they don't seem to hold up as well as the older aftermarket ones. I've found that aftermarket is easier to install and more reliable in operation.

I've never seen an aftermarket "universal" power window kit that was worth a crap. I'd definitely source some good-condition OEM regulator and motor drive assemblies to transplant into the non-power doors. OEM units perform better here, and you have very, very good point on replacing the motor, when it becomes needed. I *think* that these OEM-style assemblies are available new, but new parts quality has gone to hell in a hand basket recently. I'd trust a good original assembly over a newly-manufactured one.

On an upgrade from manual to power installation, I'd also use OEM switches, and just make up a new harness, routing it around the front of the engine bay like it was done originally on the first and second generation trucks. OEM switches work good, are common enough (new and used), and they simply look the best.

Another consideration is, when doing this upgrade, it's also a lot easier to add remote keyless entry at the same time (which also expands your options on how the door lock switches can be wired). It would also be very easy to add a later automatic down module to the driver's window, if you're so inclined.

Have you ever done this? Is getting the motors/regulators to fit a big deal?

Really kind of a wimpy gripe... with a car seat or booster seat in the passenger seat nobody can reach the passenger side window crank from inside the truck.

Kid #1 (7yo) is in a booster now and the window crank is right beside his foot now. Kid #2 is still reverse facing so we have a long while of this yet...

Power locks isn't a huge deal... but I figured with power windows I have added like every other 1980's luxury possible why leave that one out?

I hadn't even thought about keyless entry...

 

[dvdswan]

Depending on what model your truck was, you might be lucky enough to have some connections inside the cab already. Grant it you 85 wasn't loaded (if it was stock) like stock trucks are these days. But manufacturers did somewhat cut corners back then as far as making only one main cab harness with all the options and just didn't install wiring in the doors, add cc modules and parts, and etc. but the plugs could be there. Just a thought.

 

[SenorNoob]

Once you have power locks, keyless entry should be very easy. Though I question the security of those cheap modules. I'd be surprised if every "key" of that brand wouldn't unlock any vehicle it come into contact with.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Depending on what model your truck was, you might be lucky enough to have some connections inside the cab already. Grant it you 85 wasn't loaded (if it was stock) like stock trucks are these days. But manufacturers did somewhat cut corners back then as far as making only one main cab harness with all the options and just didn't install wiring in the doors, add cc modules and parts, and etc. but the plugs could be there. Just a thought.

XL/Custom

Different time, a lot of the add on stuff (like cruise and A/C) is basically standalone.

They make the harness for a basic truck. "oh, you want cruise, just plug into power here on the back of the fuse panel and add the rest of the system" etc.

 

[RobbieD]

Have you ever done this? Is getting the motors/regulators to fit a big deal?

I haven't done an OEM window manual regulator to OEM power regulator/motor assembly swap. Looks to me, that the hardest part would be dealing with removing the riveted-in manual regulator, and then I'd just use bolts and nuts for the replacement power assembly.

In the eighties and ninety's, I did hundreds (if not more) installations of aftermarket power lock and window kits. My first three Rangers ('85, '86, '88) were stripped "S" models, and the next three Rangers ('89, '90 and '94) had manual locks and windows, too, I tried several aftermarket power window kits in these earlier trucks (which reused the manual regulators). None worked as good as OEM power windows.

Three of my current trucks are XLT's with OEM power ('90 B2, 2 '94 Exploders). The two Explorers are still completely OEM; the B2 has aftermarket lock actuators in place of the OEMs. I have serviced these systems as needed over the years, mainly just cleaning the moving parts and re-lubricating them. I have had to replace window motors, but I got tired of trying to get aged OEM lock actuators to work right. I started changing those to good aftermarket actuators, and glad that I did.

Really kind of a wimpy gripe... with a car seat or booster seat in the passenger seat nobody can reach the passenger side window crank from inside the truck.

It's definitely NOT being a wimp- it is a HUGE pain in the ass reaching the passenger door controls, even without having to reach around a kid's car seat. Funny, but I have kept my '84 Ranger as manual locks and windows. I like it for it's primitive "old school" charm, but then again, I ride alone.

Power locks isn't a huge deal... but I figured with power windows I have added like every other 1980's luxury possible why leave that one out?

I hadn't thought about keyless entry...

The locks are actually the easier of the two, in my opinion. The point being, if you're going to dive into an upgrade project to do one, it's not that much extra effort to do both at the same time. Same is true, with adding RKE.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Looks like it would be best to just strip everything out of the doors of a donor and just add wiring to each door, there is quite a bit going on in there and no doubt it is routed so the window won't screw it all up.



The actual circuitry is pretty straightforward though.

 

[RobbieD]

What year EVTM did you post the schematics from?

Most first-generation power doorlocks were wired as what's known as "5 wire" systems; there were no lock and unlock relays.

There was one year or two, I'm thinking later first-gen years, like '87 and/or '88 which used the wiring that you show. This power locking system that you picture was of those, which was wired as what's called a "3 wire" system.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What year EVTM did you post the schematics from?

Most first-generation power doorlocks were wired as what's known as "5 wire" systems; there were no lock and unlock relays.

There was one year or two, I'm thinking later first-gen years, like '87 and/or '88 which used the wiring that you show. This power locking system that you picture was of those, which was wired as what's called a "3 wire" system.

That was out of a '88. I have switches from a '87.

My '85 EVTM also shows relays.

 

[JoshT]

Keep us posted, wanting to do the same on mine when the time comes. Not sure if I'll be able to get away with factory switches, but would prefer to at least use factory style regulators.

 

[RobbieD]

That was out of a '88. I have switches from a '87.

My '85 EVTM also shows relays.

Well . . . . it's like Forrest said: "Ford wiring is like a box of chocolates; you never know what you're going to get."

I remember 5-wire wiring as being more common on early Ranger locks, but memory, at my age, sure as hell ain't what it was.

Regardless, the good news is that, it's very most likely that whatever individual components that you end up with, the wiring of it will actually be the easiest part.

This is the 5-wire version, out of the '90 EVTM:

See the difference, in the switches? That's were the terms "3 wire" and "5 wire" came from.