Extended upper control arms

[North Idaho 5.oh]

I am currently shopping for some extended upper control arms for my 2011 ranger. It’s on a small lift that’s mostly body, but also a torsion twist.
That being said, the driver side upper control arm is at max adjustment and still has 1-1.5° of negative camber.
I just threw (last year) some $1000 tires on there and don’t want them to get all chewed up.
So my question to you folks…. Are there any decent extended upper control arms or is there a remedy for the issue I am having.?
Which do you prefer and why?

 

[JoshT]

BTF fab makes some extended upper arms for this gen Ranger, but they ain't cheap at almost $900. If that money now safew you from a few sets of tires later, then the might be worth it. From their site:

"They are slightly longer than stock arms to fix negative camber issues associated with lift kits. "

No idea if they are right length for your scenario since you've got a TT instead of a lift kit. Between those and the adjusters, it might fix your camber.

Not sure if any other companies are still offering something similar.

 

[cmcolfax]

Bumping an old thread instead of starting a new one.

Looking for the same thing.

Extended or "high offset" upper control arms for a 2011 4WD.

Aftermarket keys, and a little crank in them to even everything out and at static load the UCA is almost contacting the frame and the upper ball joint is at an unhappy angle.

I know there were a number of companies that made them for the GMT 400 / 800 series torsion bar suspension front ends ...

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Rick’s Rangers makes extended lowering arms. Might just be a matter of him tweaking how the upper joint sits to make them work for a lift, so that may be a possibility. He’s a really great guy and I feel bad I haven’t tested the lowering arms yet since I pushed him to make them, lol

 

[JoshT]

He’s a really great guy and I feel bad I haven’t tested the lowering arms yet since I pushed him to make them, lol

Me too. Life happens whether we want it to or not. My plan now is to change directions (lift), but I might still get a set to shelve for a future Ranger or Explorer project. I don't think that those will really help cmcolfax very much from what he described.

Ricks are essentially a copy of stock arms, but a little longer with the joint angle improved for lowering. I have wondered if you could flip the stud and use for lifting, but I don't think that comes close to what he needs. They might help (or hurt) camber and angle due to the increased length, but the he really needs is more room between the frame and arm. Only way to.really achieve that would be a taller knuckle (like the suspension lift kits use) or a complete redesign of the upper arm with a hefty bend to clear the frame.

Think like the arm sitting upside down and flat on a table, such that the joint stud is sticking straight up. You would need to design the new arm such that it still lays flat on the table but does a heavy turn up on the outboard side to raise the joint a few inches off the table. Hope that makes sense.

Even if you could get an atm that does that (maybe BTF) you still have issues with the lower ball joint angle.

I'm sure he won't loke this answer, but what he really needs is a suspension lift kit (Roung.Cou try or Skyjacker) to fix the suspension angles and regain some down travel. Or put suspension back to stock height and install a body lift to clear the tires he wants to run.