What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Rick W]

Oh wise (electrical stuff) ones……

Keeping in mind that I’m a pretty smart engineer and I’ve worked with all this stuff for the better part of 60 years, I have what is probably a dumb question. And yeah, yeah, I know there are no dumb questions - just dumb people.

30amp fuses. I don’t have a picture of the even smaller more modern fuses like this that I believe also come in 30 amp.

If I’m going to run a wire from here to there in the truck to power whatever, are these two fuses interchangeable because they’re both 30 A? Or does the big one somehow carry more whatever? My thinking is a 30 amp is a 30 amp is a 30 amp, independent of the physical size, when working in the same 12 V circuit.

I’m looking for the correct overall answer. Specifically, at the moment, I’m wiring in some electrical horns and also the little compressor for some air horns.

What am I missing? (I was going to ask if I was crazy, but I knew the flood that would come with that).

And while I have your attention, oh wise electrical ones, different question for my shop. if I take a 110 VAC circuit to a motor, and convert it to a 220 VAC single phase circuit, does that cut the cost of my electricity? I know it cuts the amps in half, but does it cut the electrical charge ($) for that unit in half?

 

[Snoranger]

Oh wise (electrical stuff) ones……

Keeping in mind that I’m a pretty smart engineer and I’ve worked with all this stuff for the better part of 60 years, I have what is probably a dumb question. And yeah, yeah, I know there are no dumb questions - just dumb people.

View attachment 140674

30amp fuses. I don’t have a picture of the even smaller more modern fuses like this that I believe also come in 30 amp.

If I’m going to run a wire from here to there in the truck to power whatever, are these two fuses interchangeable because they’re both 30 A? Or does the big one somehow carry more whatever? My thinking is a 30 amp is a 30 amp is a 30 amp, independent of the physical size, when working in the same 12 V circuit.

I’m looking for the correct overall answer. Specifically, at the moment, I’m wiring in some electrical horns and also the little compressor for some air horns.

What am I missing? (I was going to ask if I was crazy, but I knew the flood that would come with that).

And while I have your attention, oh wise electrical ones, different question for my shop. if I take a 110 VAC circuit to a motor, and convert it to a 220 VAC single phase circuit, does that cut the cost of my electricity? I know it cuts the amps in half, but does it cut the electrical charge ($) for that unit in half?

Yes, they will both carry 30 amps. If you were going to run it on a circuit that was constantly pulling higher amps, I would say go with the maxi fuse instead on the ATC/ATO style on the left. But if it’s just an air horns, you’ll be fine based off duty cycle.
International had an issue on the 40 amp ATC style injector driver module fuse in the DT466s. They would draw right at about 37-39 amps and overtime it would melt the fuse and holder. Turns out, the standard contacts on the fuse holder and ATC fuse couldn’t really handle the constant 35+ amps, even though it was a 40 amp fuse. The tabs would start to warm up and pull away from the fuse, making everything even hotter. Then you’d get a no start road call for a melted fuse and holder. They solved it by switching out the harness to a different alloy on the connector at the fuse. We solved it by replacing the ATC fuses with maxi fuses.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

I am familiar with “R&B“ tires, but what is EOL?

EOL = end of life.

 

[Rick W]

Yes, they will both carry 30 amps. If you were going to run it on a circuit that was constantly pulling higher amps, I would say go with the maxi fuse instead on the ATC/ATO style on the left. But if it’s just an air horns, you’ll be fine based off duty cycle.
International had an issue on the 40 amp ATC style injector driver module fuse in the DT466s. They would draw right at about 37-39 amps and overtime it would melt the fuse and holder. Turns out, the standard contacts on the fuse holder and ATC fuse couldn’t really handle the constant 35+ amps, even though it was a 40 amp fuse. The tabs would start to warm up and pull away from the fuse, making everything even hotter. Then you’d get a no start road call for a melted fuse and holder. They solved it by switching out the harness to a different alloy on the connector at the fuse. We solved it by replacing the ATC fuses with maxi fuses.

Thank you

 

[Things2do]

I just put a 235 under my 87. I think that little tubular frame with the fold down bar is the same as on my 97, so it should be the same on yours. The 235 will fit in that frame with one exception. It’s snug, but it will fit.

If it’s like mine, it has a bolt that faces the rear. When you take the bolt out, there’s a little L-shaped bracket that hooks under the main bar. You have to tilt that back to let the tire down. If you’ve got a receiver hitch under the truck, that little bracket won’t pull back far enough to release the main bar. I used a grinder with a cut off wheel and I cut off about an inch or inch and a half of the tongue on that L bracket. There’s still enough left to catch the bar so you don’t have to hold the tire up while you try to thread the bolt.


Hope it helps

Thanks. That sounds like what I have save for a receiver hitch. I think I have a bolt for the carrier somewhere, but permanently storing it under there would first require finding that bolt. The original owner had it held up with a padlock and a wire rope that I had to cut. The guy I bought it from last spring had owned it since 1999 and didn't know that there was a padlock until I crawled under and then asked if he had the key.
For now I have it under my camper shell, which will be lockable as soon as I get around to cutting the latch bolts down so they don't stop the handle from turning all the way.

And while I have your attention, oh wise electrical ones, different question for my shop. if I take a 110 VAC circuit to a motor, and convert it to a 220 VAC single phase circuit, does that cut the cost of my electricity? I know it cuts the amps in half, but does it cut the electrical charge ($) for that unit in half?

For your last electrical question, my understanding is that watt-hours are watt-hours. Potential efficiency differences aside, if you double the voltage and halve the amperage that should work out to the same wattage and therefore the same cost.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Thanks. That sounds like what I have save for a receiver hitch. I think I have a bolt for the carrier somewhere, but permanently storing it under there would first require finding that bolt. The original owner had it held up with a padlock and a wire rope that I had to cut. The guy I bought it from last spring had owned it since 1999 and didn't know that there was a padlock until I crawled under and then asked if he had the key.
For now I have it under my camper shell, which will be lockable as soon as I get around to cutting the latch bolts down so they don't stop the handle from turning all the way.



For your last electrical question, my understanding is that watt-hours are watt-hours. Potential efficiency differences aside, if you double the voltage and halve the amperage that should work out to the same wattage and therefore the same cost.

If it helps at all I think the bolt is just a 1/2" or 12mm, if it's 12mm it could be tapped to 1/2" easy enough and both will take the stock lug wrench to remove (3/4" hex). As far as the having a receiver hitch that GREATLY depends on which of the 5429 (+/- 6) receiver options are installed, I keep forgetting to look at my '97 but I just have the generic $50 Curt hitch on mine but I think the spare comes out... should check one of these days...

As for what I've done to my Ranger today, it's dumb... my '97's been loosing coolant for a while and I was under the hood looking at something for someone here so I investigated... saw the thermostat gasket wet so thought I found it then found the heater return hose resting on one runner of the exhaust manifold! It was just starting to seep until I touched it... I tried rednecking it with a piece of 3/4" hose slit and held on with 3 hose clamps but that made it worse... then I wandered the garage for anything that might be 5/8" OD tube wise, ended up spotting an empty CO2 cartridge for a pellet gun, checked and it was about 11/16" OD so close enough! Cut both ends off and deburred in and out and grabbed some hose pinchers and cutter and it's now fixed!

 

[Rick W]

Update: it turns out the cam synchronizer did the trick. The Road Ranger is roadworthy again!

When I finally got the sync in the other day, I was out of time that afternoon, so all I could do was rev it. It had the same warble that it had before I ever touched it. @Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto was over here today to help out, and we did a couple things to his truck. He must’ve brought me luck! After he left, I did a test drive in the Road Ranger, and it purred like a kitten under acceleration and under load. I’m sorry for the thoughts of gooey lizards and slimy frogs on all you guys because you put your lives, your wives, your families, your jobs, etc. in front of fixing my truck that you’ve never seen from a thousand miles away. You are all out of the doghouse.

On the other front, I took the new brake light switch on and off and apart and back together another 20 times on the Missing Linc.

View attachment 140580

Two brand new switches, and a new bushing kit, and it was still doing the same thing it was doing before: you could push it lightly, and the brake lights would come on, push it further, and then pull back on it, no lights, and then step on it again and brake HARD, no lights. No lights when you were braking hard. Not good.

Stupid design. The really stiff spring actually holds the switch open as you step on brakes. Eventually, if you step hard enough, it compresses the spring and makes contact. To fix it, I finally replaced the spring (which was NOT designed to be replaced) with a thinner/softer wire spring with a much lower spring rate. I had to do a trial and error about seven or eight times, taking a little bit off the spring each time, but I finally nailed it. I can now take that switch in and out with my eyes closed.

In retrospect, I’m thinking the linkage between the foot pedal and the vacuum booster/master cylinder may need adjustment to remove any slack in the motion in the connection. In any case, the lighter spring ended up doing the trick.


View attachment 140582

That’s how I feel, times 10!!! I’ve been fighting them both for months

Brake lights, air horns & hood star:

Update to the update on the brake light switch and actually a confession and some progress. And I finally put my air horns in in addition to doing a whole bunch of wiring cleanup behind the grill on the Missing Linc.

It turns out the original design of the brake light switch assembly may not have been the problem. The problem is the replacement parts. I know, for sure now, that the reason my brake light started being intermittent, was simply because the contacts had become corroded and carboned up from decades and hundreds of thousands of miles of use. When I put in the new switchs, which are fine, I also put in the new little black top-hat bushing - that bushing is the problem.

I called out to the two local Ford dealers I use, everyone born way after that truck was made, searching for the old fart like me who might know about it. Both of the guys I used to deal with were retired. I asked the manager at the one if he could have that guy call me since he wouldn’t give me his number. And he did call me, great guy, I miss him.

The cylindrical stud that comes off the side of the brake pedal is supposed to be able to wiggle about a 16th of an inch inside that black bushing. The only purpose of that bushing is to avoid a “click” noise when you step on the brakes, from metal to metal contact. It is supposed to float on that stud, and be tight outside in the eye of the push rod that goes to the vacuum booster/master cylinder. I ended up buying three of those bushings, and every single one of them was snug to the stud and was also snug inside the eye - no motion - so the push rod would not move to depress the spring and close the contact.

Someone said it, I apologize. I couldn’t find it right now, but simply removing the bushing solves the problem, and I can’t hear any click with all the other rattles in that 40 year-old truck. Very frustrating, but it’s all working properly now.

Now for something REALY important, the air horns and Lincoln Star hood ornament. When I got the truck, the guys before me had it stripped down and they were charging through the woods with it. Can you imagine anybody doing that? It had been banged up a little bit with a bronco hood, fender and door. The wiring behind the grill was a little suspect to say the least.

When I put the engine in and had the brainstorm to put in the Lincoln grille and quad lights, I always like to improve things, so I put in a whole lot more suspect wiring behind that grill. When I put the hood star on top of the grill originally, it didn’t clear the hood. So you would have to tilt it forward a little bit to close the hood. I’d forget that about every 10th time, and it finally snapped off the spring below it. That meant I had to take the grill off to fix it.

I basically redid 90% of the wiring behind the grill. I installed the airhorns facing down in front of the radiator, and I tossed the activated carbon vapor canister (which probably hadn’t been hooked up in decades), and I put the air compressor in it’s place.

If you look at the first picture closely, you can notice two chrome marine horns on either side of that opening, and an old fashioned deep toned Cadillac trumpet from the 60s or 70s below my red horns (both from SOM). The truck still has the two horns behind the headlights that came with it. I’ve done this before. They’re wired through a relay that also runs the compressor, but I left the original horns on the original circuit, which I tapped into to trip the relay. That way, if the fuse blows on all the extra ones, the two original horns will still honk.

EDIT: I also wired the quad headlights the way they’re supposed to be. When I originally wired them, I accidentally reversed a ground and a hot lead, so on low beams, the interior lights would glow a little bit, and on high beams, the interior lights would be bright and the exterior lights would glow. It’s a pretty cool effect, but I think it was burning up my multifunction switch, so since I was in there anyway…

My Lincoln grill and hood star were not the prettiest in the world, I’ve always been dissatisfied with the way the top of the grill sat under the hood, and the fact that the hood star was in front of the hood instead of being on top of it. It looked like some old fart did it laying on his back when he was sick. Oh, wait, I was. So while I was doing all this, to eliminate the problem of clipping it with the hood, I moved it up on top of that central rib. I had to fabricate a new spring system, so it would spring back instead of break off. It’s some of the best wire coat hanger work I’ve done in quite a while.

If you look close, shows better in daylight, you can see the red horns behind the grill. I ran out of time, but my next step is going to find an appropriate piece of stainless trim that I can cut and fabricate along the top of that Lincoln grill so it looks more finished.

I’m not sure if I have something in the shed of miracles (it hurts me to say that). Project for another day…

Triple

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yesterday I also pulled the rear driveline out of the '90 Ranger, the rear U joint was bad and likely the cause of my squeak, the other two move fine... so far tonight I have that joint out and going to put the replacement in shortly.

 

[scotts90ranger]

U joint installed, added a little marine grease to all caps like I always do... not sure why that joint was all dry and rusty, I don't play in water that much and I'm pretty sure it's only like 2 maybe 3 years old... whatever, it's got a Spicer premium joint in there now instead of the cheapie... that I probably paid as much for as the spicer...

Also checked the T case fluid, it needs to be changed but it's full... going to the dunes next weekend so will probably do that after this trip, next one is in like 3 weeks...

Oh and the set of D ring shackles I bought on Amazon the other day showed up today, in orange (I think that makes them faster? I didn't see blue but it is apparently an options says the box) so I put those on, they have isolator washers and those rubber things on the inside of the D so not bad, for $20/pair it isn't bad...

 

[Things2do]

The cylindrical stud that comes off the side of the brake pedal is supposed to be able to wiggle about a 16th of an inch inside that black bushing. The only purpose of that bushing is to avoid a “click” noise when you step on the brakes, from metal to metal contact. It is supposed to float on that stud, and be tight outside in the eye of the push rod that goes to the vacuum booster/master cylinder. I ended up buying three of those bushings, and every single one of them was snug to the stud and was also snug inside the eye - no motion - so the push rod would not move to depress the spring and close the contact.

Someone said it, I apologize. I couldn’t find it right now, but simply removing the bushing solves the problem, and I can’t hear any click with all the other rattles in that 40 year-old truck. Very frustrating, but it’s all working properly now.

The truck still has the two horns behind the headlights that came with it. I’ve done this before. They’re wired through a relay that also runs the compressor, but I left the original horns on the original circuit, which I tapped into to trip the relay. That way, if the fuse blows on all the extra ones, the two original horns will still honk.

How do the air and factory horns sound together?
I pulled a 2 trumpet air horn and a compressor out of an '87 Ranger in the junkyard, similar in size to your two red ones on the left in your photographs. The compressor was wired in as a replacement for the factory horns on that one. My factory horns still work though so I didn't want to go that route. While debating on how I wanted to switch them permanently I've just been tripping my relay by shoving a wire that I ran into the cab down inside the cigarette lighter to touch the middle contact, but that isn't too convenient.

Come to think of it, my cousin gave me another air horn that's longer than any of the spaces I could mount it in under the hood. I hadn't thought about trying to mount it behind the grille like that.


And was this the post you were looking for? It was buried under 4 pages of other activity.

You might try removing the little plastic bushing that goes on the shaft that the switch rides on on the pedal, the little plastic cylinder that takes up the gap between that rod and the switch. When I first got my Ranger it didn't have brake lights at all unless I really stepped on them, like yours is doing when you ease off and then press harder, but removing that little plastic cylinder made them work like they should starting from barely touching the pedal. I don't know why and it probably isn't a permanent fix, but at least they work.

 

[Rick W]

How do the air and factory horns sound together?
I pulled a 2 trumpet air horn and a compressor out of an '87 Ranger in the junkyard, similar in size to your two red ones on the left in your photographs. The compressor was wired in as a replacement for the factory horns on that one. My factory horns still work though so I didn't want to go that route. While debating on how I wanted to switch them permanently I've just been tripping my relay by shoving a wire that I ran into the cab down inside the cigarette lighter to touch the middle contact, but that isn't too convenient.

Come to think of it, my cousin gave me another air horn that's longer than any of the spaces I could mount it in under the hood. I hadn't thought about trying to mount it behind the grille like that.


And was this the post you were looking for? It was buried under 4 pages of other activity.

Altogether, it’s loud, but it sounds a little like an off-key Symphony. I’ve had those airhorns for a long time, and I wanted to put louder horns on that little truck, and I’m cheap, so I used them. The truck is red and black, and the original plan was to put them up by the lights on the rack, but I’d have to move stuff around to do that and I didn’t feel like doing that.

Wiring them all together was just to get them in and get them working. I’ll keep the electronic horns on the steering wheel, but I’m going to put the air horns on a pull chain hanging from my overhead CB/switch panel like I did on the Road Ranger (97), I put in one of the deep tone, 17-inch trumpets and two chrome trumpets about the same size as the two larger ones in this red set. I had to mount the two air compressors in parallel and put in a larger hose for them to work right They sound awesome.

If you look close, the little one is to the right of the one on the bottom. That was my original thought, but again they won’t fit this one unless I move stuff around, and that isn’t worth it to me.

When I get the switch installed overhead, I’ll be able to hear how the airhorn sound independent of the steering wheel horns. Then I’ll make a final decision on another chrome trumpet up top.

& BTW, the cigarette lighter trick is a hoot. I’ve done all kinds of crazy stuff, but I never did that!

EDIT, another picture. The chain hanging on the left of the CB is the airhorn. I used one of those chains that holds the pens in the bank that’s stuck to the counter. It doesn’t show in this picture, but I put the little sticky pad on the windshield so it hangs on a loop.

 

[Things2do]

Altogether, it’s loud, but it sounds a little like an off-key Symphony. I’ve had those airhorns for a long time, and I wanted to put louder horns on that little truck, and I’m cheap, so I use them. The truck is red and black, and the original plan was to put them up by the lights on the rack, but I’d have to move stuff around to do that and I didn’t feel like doing that.

Wiring them all together was just to get them in and get them working. I’ll keep the electronic horns on the steering wheel, but I’m going to put the air horns on a pull chain hanging from my overhead CB/switch panel like I did on the Road Ranger (97), I put in one of the deep tone, 17-inch trumpets and two chrome trumpets about the same size as the two larger ones in this red set. I had to mount the two air compressors in parallel and put in a larger hose for them to work right They sound awesome.

View attachment 140740


View attachment 140741

If you look close, the little one is to the right of the one on the bottom. That was my original thought, but again they won’t fit this one unless I move stuff around, and that isn’t worth it to me.

View attachment 140741

When I get the switch installed overhead, I’ll be able to hear how the airhorn sound independent of the steering wheel horns. Then I’ll make a final decision on another chrome trumpet up top.


& BTW, the cigarette lighter trick is a hoot. I’ve done all kinds of crazy stuff, but I never did that!

EDIT, another picture. The chain hanging on the left of the CB is the airhorn. I used one of those chains that holds the pens in the bank that’s stuck to the counter. It doesn’t show in this picture, but I put the little sticky pad on the windshield so it hangs on a loop.

View attachment 140750

I was thinking that they would probably be loud but sound a bit off.

That chrome horn on eBay looks identical to the long one my cousin gave me, except mine is black. I've only ever honked it with a bicycle tire pump in the bedroom of my apartment...
My stereo can be cranked up enough to easily feel the floor vibrating in the apartment above me, but that horn is the closest I've gotten to getting a complaint from them. When it's quiet my stereo at full blast is even audible from inside the apartment above them with all the windows closed. I paid $5 at a thrift store for the amplifier and pulled the two speaker towers out of a dumpster.
It's not that I'm a nuisance to random people, just my friends. It's a small apartment building, we all know each other pretty well, and for most of the building it isn't unusual to just walk into another apartment uninvited and flop down on the couch and stay a while. We're all students at the same engineering school and most of us are in the same Bible study.

I had thought about rigging up a pull cord but I never got past finding a momentary pull switch online. If you don't have a switch in mind for it, someone said that the air horns on his fire truck were actuated with a Cole Hersee 9109. Those switches are $15 or $20 though.

And thanks for the last picture. I've been debating on whether to mount my CB to the roof, in place of the ash tray (mine is small enough to fit in there), or under the dash, but I'm trying to get an idea of what it would look like before I commit to anything. I've also been thinking about putting a switch panel somewhere, and that positioning would take care of both. Then I would just have to decide where to mount my off road lights. My body is too nice for me to be comfortable drilling holes in it willy-nilly and I haven't come up with any bolt on bracket ideas that I like.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Changed the oil on the '97, good to go for another 5k...

 

[Rick W]

For the pull down cord, I just used a very cheap micro switch. Normally open momentary contact. eBay

When I made the housing to hold my switches, which is pretty much just a folded over piece of sheet metal, I took a 4-5 inch long little piece of aluminum angle, maybe 3/8 of an inch by 3/8 of an inch by 1/8 thick, but you can use anything. I mounted the switch pointing up, put the angle on top of it with a pivot in the center of the bracket, and left it sticking out about an inch on the driver side, and put a chain on that. The little switch is strong enough to hold it open, you pull that chain to honk, you let it go and it pops back up. I just used beaded chain.

This might help too:

The trucks have a double roof. There’s the roof you see on the outside, and then there’s a second skin about a half inch or an inch inside of that which is actually what you touch from the inside above the headliner. I just used some super short, self drilling, self tapping screws to put a little angle on the front side and a little angle on the backside to hang my switch panel. Note a trick: I always use a little goop/E 6000 when I put in the screws. The screws hold tight, the glue keeps them from vibrating loose.

I did it so I can slide it in in the front, and then push it up in the back, and put a couple screws in it in front to hold it in place.

I ran a pretty stout wire from the battery, and one from the ignition, both fused 30A. Then I used a terminal strip, and tapped off that for the different lights and horns and whatever. If you look on eBay, the smaller illuminated switches on top are rated at 20A, and the bigger switches on the bottom are rated at 30A. They’re dirt cheap. On some of the heavier things. I also have an individual fuse.

When I made my panel and put in the switches, I put in four or five more than I needed for what I was doing at the moment. I ran the same number of extra wires from the roof down to inside the firewall. One of the problems is getting that many wires through the windshield molding and the molding on the A pillar. If you have a lot, you can run them to both the left side and to the right side to under the dashboard, and then route them wherever. I’ve done it many times before.

It looks like spaghetti, but if you do them one by one, it’s a very simple thing that you just do over and over. Beyond the shadow of a doubt, absolutely, use different color wires, and write down the color codes. I used an Excel spreadsheet to track all the terminals in the switch panel, track the wires where they came to the corner of the firewall, and then where the batteries ran behind my cab into my toolbox where I have my second battery. I printed it out which switch does what in a graphic and laminated it, and I keep that on the top side of my sun visor.

The switch panel has to be mounted pretty firmly to the roof to hang the CB off it. Even a little CB has a lot of momentum and tries to break loose as you go over bumps and go up and down. Note also, I ran the power to the CB from the wires I ran into the switch panel.

Finally, at the urging of some of the guys, I took a little piece of fabric backed vinyl and glued to the switch panel. I folded it over the edges and held them in place with those tiny plastic clamp things you get at Harbor Freight, and some binder clamps. Once it sets, you can cut a hole in the middle of the switch holes, and then just used a round file across the edges of the holes to cut the vinyl off even with the switch hole.

I like the CB and the switches up there, because it’s a quick flick of the eye to see them or see the knobs and meter on the CB, so you don’t have to take your eyes off the road. I hang my microphone off the right side of the CB: you can grab it and put it up and down without even thinking about it. If you install a mic clip, angle it upwards about 10° or the mic keeps popping loose when you hit bumps.

Important point, if you’re going to use a full-size radio like a 29 LTD, you definitely want the one that has the microphone coming out of the front and not out of the side.

Finally, the big radios I use interfered with the sunshades. On the 87, there’s a vinyl edge, sewn around the visor edge. I carefully used a razor blade under that vinyl to cut the threads and pull that edging back. Then I cut the visor shorter, and I glued the edge back with the goop/E 6000 using the little clip clamps. The 97 has the felt sunvisors. I just cut them where I needed them, and then I used a piece of the plastic wire loom to make a finished edge on the inside side. On both of them, that’s so I can fold the driver side down without moving anything. On the passenger side, you have to pull the mic to drop the visor down.

When it was all done, I took a couple pieces of cardboard and covered them with vinyl. I cut them to fit the sides of the bracket and the radio, and just used one of the screws from the radio to hold them in place. On the other one, I did the same thing, but I just put Velcro on the sides of the radio and the switch panel, and stuck the felt on there. That worked really well for some irregular surfaces.

 

[mtnrgr]

Had those bluish/purple pinstripe removed today. Didn't like them. Found a local detail shop, originally quoted a fair cost over the phone..went there in person so he could look at and he said, I will not charge you..had them removed for free..
Super great guy to deal with. The truck is alot cleaner looking. I had a another post about the 3.0..not sure what happened to it. Here are some pictures of as I have been keeping it in clean good condition. Also painted the numbers and letters on the valve covers silver touch match the truck.