Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap

[JokerLS240]

I originally started with an RTR distributor from Blueprint and converted it to bypass the internal ignition module. You can order connectors for mag pickups that plus into the Aces VR plug. I'm pretty sure it's just an MSD part.

Here is how mine is wired:

 

[Curious Hound]

Is there a dufferent distributor you could use? Like the one in my 3.0l, except with 8 contacts

 

[JokerLS240]

Is there a dufferent distributor you could use? Like the one in my 3.0l, except with 8 contacts

Does the 3.0 have a distributor or is it coil packs?

I guess one could use a cam trigger and coil packs with the right signal going into the ECU. That may be too advanced for what Aces offers at the moment.

 

[Curious Hound]

Mine has a distributor to a single coil controlled by an ignition module. That was the early progression away from distributors with points and mechanical advance stuff. Then the cam synchronizer and multiple coil packs came after that.

I bet my 88 F150 had exactly what he needs.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Mine has a distributor to a single coil controlled by an ignition module. That was the early progression away from distributors with points and mechanical advance stuff. Then the cam synchronizer and multiple coil packs came after that.

I bet my 88 F150 had exactly what he needs.

This is different. The distributor is basically a a cam position sensor with a distributor.

The TFI dizzy still does advance stuff I think, the computer just makes things move instead of weights and a vacuum can.

My new EFI Fudges the signal going to the coil to adjust the timing.

 

[SenorNoob]

I know you have your plan, but for knowledges' sake:

The TFI module is entirely electronic. There are no actuators of any kind. Does that mean that the matching distributor has no mechanical advance or does it use flyweights and springs? If it has no mechanical advance at all, it would be effectively identical to the locked duraspark distributor, right?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I know you have your plan, but for knowledges' sake:

The TFI module is entirely electronic. There are no actuators of any kind. Does that mean that the matching distributor has no mechanical advance or does it use flyweights and springs? If it has no mechanical advance at all, it would be effectively identical to the locked duraspark distributor, right?

It kind of looks like it... but it seems much more involved than locking up a DS dizzy and just using it to generate tach signal.

I haven't been around TFI since I Durasparked my Ranger in 2006 so I am by no means an expert on them. I do think I still have the original TFI dizzy off my 302 stashed at my parents house.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Pulled in the garage ready for the fun to begin...



Right in the feels...



Kind of a side project is making my inop check engine light trigger with the second efan wire from the new ECM. You can set the temps where you want them so I can have the efans kick on around 200* like they do now and have the CEL come on around 220* or so for an added alert



My message center is full of these little twist in bulbs that have a plastic base.



I gently crushed the glass out of the base with my bench vice then softly disemboweled the remains of the bulb and the brass contacts with my leatherman before I drilled a hole in the end of it... and basically converted it to a LED bulb that really does not care at all whatever the cluster circit board is doing. It came out very nicely.



One of these bulbs is not like the others...



It kinda has me curious wanting to get the 4wd lights to work, I might go ahead and make a couple more bulbs and at least get them staged in there for later.

Next I dropped the tank out of it



Ripped the fuel pump out of it and tore it apart



I did have to do some grinding and cutting on the pump hanger but I did get the pump to work. I also put power to it and it did move fuel and seemed to run pretty quiet.

Also Kudos to @Uncle Gump for helping get the correct quick adapt fuel fittings



And that is as far as I got...

 

[SenorNoob]

What exactly did you have to do with the sending unit? I'm looking at the exact same setup soon.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

What exactly did you have to do with the sending unit? I'm looking at the exact same setup soon.

The pump is taller so I had to trim the tube that mates to it. I also had to grind the stamped contour out of the bottom of the hanger bracket so the pickup screen would fit on.

Different brands of fuel pump hangers will probably vary of course.

Then cut and crimp two wires of course.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I know you have your plan, but for knowledges' sake:

The TFI module is entirely electronic. There are no actuators of any kind. Does that mean that the matching distributor has no mechanical advance or does it use flyweights and springs? If it has no mechanical advance at all, it would be effectively identical to the locked duraspark distributor, right?

I have looked into it now for various reasons. Like I said I am pretty sure I have one with no future.

Scheme #1: Assuming the distributor height is the same just rip the solid shaft out and swap into a DS everything else. Would keep the vacuum can for decoration and the rest of it is simple to generate a simple tach signal. Solid shaft is solid so no chance of ever having any kind of slop.

Foiled by: the top of the shaft is wrong, the reluctor cup thing is designed to make a square wave "PIP signal" and all the little fingers are not the same distance. The reluctor cup seems to be bolted to a hut that is splined into the shaft so I can't simply swap the DS reluctor wheel onto it (which is keyed with a roll pin)

Scheme 2: Just use the TFI dizzy.

Foiled by : It sounds like they need a brain to decipher the square wave tach signal they make. There is no simple "Tach out" from the distributor.

https://view.officeapps.live.com/op/view.aspx?src=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ford-trucks.com%2Fforums%2Fattachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D180059

It sounds like a mess to try to get that figured out lol.

Also for down the road maintenance: The Duraspark pickup isn't too hard to replace with the distributor in the engine with a couple of screwdrivers, the PIP sensor requires the distributor to be removed from the vehicle and completely stripped (which requires a press) to replace. A large reason why internal pics are hard to come by, nobody bothers and just chucks a reman dizzy at it.

Conclusion:
Locking up the DS dizzy is still looking like the easiest/simplest.

However tomorrow I am going to retrieve my TFI distributor and actually look at it for sure.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Old fuel line is out as is my spare onboard Holley fuel pump.



It will be nice to have all new fuel line and get rid of this hodge podge thing.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I have looked into it now for various reasons. Like I said I am pretty sure I have one with no future.

Scheme #1: Assuming the distributor height is the same just rip the solid shaft out and swap into a DS everything else. Would keep the vacuum can for decoration and the rest of it is simple to generate a simple tach signal. Solid shaft is solid so no chance of ever having any kind of slop.

Foiled by: the top of the shaft is wrong, the reluctor cup thing is designed to make a square wave "PIP signal" and all the little fingers are not the same distance. The reluctor cup seems to be bolted to a hut that is splined into the shaft so I can't simply swap the DS reluctor wheel onto it (which is keyed with a roll pin)

Scheme 2: Just use the TFI dizzy.

Foiled by : It sounds like they need a brain to decipher the square wave tach signal they make. There is no simple "Tach out" from the distributor.

https://view.officeapps.live.com/op/view.aspx?src=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ford-trucks.com%2Fforums%2Fattachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D180059

It sounds like a mess to try to get that figured out lol.

Also for down the road maintenance: The Duraspark pickup isn't too hard to replace with the distributor in the engine with a couple of screwdrivers, the PIP sensor requires the distributor to be removed from the vehicle and completely stripped (which requires a press) to replace. A large reason why internal pics are hard to come by, nobody bothers and just chucks a reman dizzy at it.

Conclusion:
Locking up the DS dizzy is still looking like the easiest/simplest.

However tomorrow I am going to retrieve my TFI distributor and actually look at it for sure.

I know the TFI distributor has a lockout already in it, maybe it can be used in your current distributor? If you arent using the actual TFI there is a still a hall effect sensor with three female spade connections inside of the dizzy. You could use an old TFI module gutted and repurposed as a simple plug to the sensor. That's how i make my remote TFI setups. I just gut it, solder two jumper wires to pins of you choice and boom you have a secure sealed connector at the dizzy. I also backfill the TFI with gray RTV as potting. All my pics are on my computer at home currently

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I know the TFI distributor has a lockout already in it, maybe it can be used in your current distributor? If you arent using the actual TFI there is a still a hall effect sensor with three female spade connections inside of the dizzy. You could use an old TFI module gutted and repurposed as a simple plug to the sensor. That's how i make my remote TFI setups. I just gut it, solder two jumper wires to pins of you choice and boom you have a secure sealed connector at the dizzy. I also backfill the TFI with gray RTV as potting. All my pics are on my computer at home currently

The hall effect sensor in the TFI dizzy generates a PIP signal, basically tach signal combined with camshaft position sensor by having one odd space in the reluctor wheel.

I would need to run the TFI ignition to get it to work... maybe. My Aces kit won't work on just the PIP signal. I don't know how standalone the TFI ignition is either.

But my Aces kit will do the TFI type stuff if I just get tach signal to it.

If the reluctor wheel from my DS dizzy would fit the shaft from the TFI dizzy I would go thru the hassle of pressing two distributors apart and kitbashing the two of them into one.

 

[PlumCrazy]

The hall effect sensor in the TFI dizzy generates a PIP signal, basically tach signal combined with camshaft position sensor by having one odd space in the reluctor wheel.

I would need to run the TFI ignition to get it to work... maybe. My Aces kit won't work on just the PIP signal. I don't know how standalone the TFI ignition is either.

But my Aces kit will do the TFI type stuff if I just get tach signal to it.

If the reluctor wheel from my DS dizzy would fit the shaft from the TFI dizzy I would go thru the hassle of pressing two distributors apart and kitbashing the two of them into one.

Ohhh. I know the Megasquirt keeps the TFI, but IDK how much control (if any) the the TFI has on timing. I know the manual specifically said do not remove the SPOUT connector when setting base timing, so I am going to guess the TFI is just along for the ride/used as the tach/cam sensor.