• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Rebuilding a M50D-HD


Seems fine? -16A is supposed to be the 4.0 input shaft for all years '90-'11. I just looked at a random picture of an input shaft I have, and it's got the ridges between the dog teeth.

You have the M5OD-R1HD. M5OD-HD is an abbreviation, same as condensing the old one down to M5R1. They're both in the R1 family.
Did you get synchros? If not, it doesn't matter. If you did, the old synchro kit is -AWS. The HD kit is -BWS.
 
Seems fine? -16A is supposed to be the 4.0 input shaft for all years '90-'11. I just looked at a random picture of an input shaft I have, and it's got the ridges between the dog teeth.

You have the M5OD-R1HD. M5OD-HD is an abbreviation, same as condensing the old one down to M5R1. They're both in the R1 family.
Did you get synchros? If not, it doesn't matter. If you did, the old synchro kit is -AWS. The HD kit is -BWS.
Thanks for the clarification.

I didn't get synchros be cause I was told mine are fine by the business I got my parts from. They were super knowledgeable and awesome.
After some exchage of specs and details. They told me, because of the fiber looking material on inside, I had special heavy duty synchros and they're pretty pricey and only available through Ford. But mine looked perfectly fine so they said I dont need them.
 

Attachments

  • 20250815_082218.jpg
    20250815_082218.jpg
    176.2 KB · Views: 22
I'll be reassembling my trans this week, hopefully.
I'm having a hard time finding what sealant I need for the back of the trans and the Tcase housing.

What would yall recommend for them?
 
I'm having a hard time finding what sealant I need for the back of the trans and the Tcase housing

There should be seals in both the output of the transmission and the input of the transfer case. Ford will sometimes use a gasket to keep dirt out, but if it's a dry extension housing you technically don't need anything there.
 
Yeah, I usually just use the stock gasket or if that isn't available make one or just some ultra black but being a manual it's sealed on both sides so it doesn't really matter just put some grease on the splines before you assemble...
 
I have the input and output shaft seals.
But the housing between the trans and Tcase (housing/case extension?) has sealant between it and the trans. And a paper looking gasket between it and the Tcase.
Should there not be any sealant?
 
Should there not be any sealant?

There technically doesn't *need* to be anything between them, as long as there are seals in both.

Dodge used to have a problem where the transmission output shaft would leak (I've seen manufacturers incorrectly specify a dust seal similar to what you would use on a front hub assy to keep dirt out, seals are chosen by dimensions, but the direction of the lip matters). The extension housing would fill up with ATF over a long period of time, then push into the transfer case overfilling it.

This is why you will often see a groove cut into the bottom of the extension housing to prevent this from happening...
 
I thought it was weird because there aren't any gears in that section.
But my Ranger is the onky real domestic experience I have.

So its not needed but it won't hurt.
I think I have some. If I do, I'll put it on but Im not going to buy any.


Thanks.
 
Ok, I'm kinda stuck.

Going to reassemble it and I found a difference in the bearing on the failed input shaft and the bearing in the kit I got.
1st and 2nd pic is the bearing that came off.
3rd and 4th are what is together in the pack and fit the bearing carrier but the inner race, that presses onto the input shaft, is different than the inner race on the old input shaft.
The last pic is the another new bearing, which matches the old input shaft bearing, but the outer race isn't for the front carrier. I believe its for the rear bearing carrier.

This is the 2nd trans but I dont believe its been rebuilt. I think it was assembled like that at the factory. Is that why it failed so early?
Or is it built correctly and the new bearings were packaged wrong?
Which race is for which shaft?
 

Attachments

  • 20250826_080839.jpg
    20250826_080839.jpg
    149.5 KB · Views: 35
  • 20250826_080852.jpg
    20250826_080852.jpg
    164.8 KB · Views: 35
  • 20250826_080907.jpg
    20250826_080907.jpg
    109.3 KB · Views: 40
  • 20250826_080942.jpg
    20250826_080942.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 33
  • 20250826_080955.jpg
    20250826_080955.jpg
    125.8 KB · Views: 43
What's the issue? A quick Google agrees 30207X is the input shaft and 30207 is output shaft center. If one is Koyo and the other is NTN, the packagers can't have switched the outer races in the kit. I guess it's possible they threw the wrong input bearing outer race in there, but -X4/80EW and -X3EW both resolve to the same dimensions.

How does it not fit?
 
Last edited:
in the 4th pic the inner race has a wider retaining lip that the other two. that lip does not have a primary load on it.

while laying down, are the assembled heights the same?
will the replacement fully press onto the shaft? is the inner radius clearance adequate to clear the seating on the shaft?

on taper bearings the thin side of both races has no side load.

in the 2nd, 4th, and 5th pics the side shown goes into the housing, right? the inner race surface should not touch anything? right???
 
What's the issue? A quick Google agrees 30207X is the input shaft and 30207 is output shaft center. If one is Koyo and the other is NTN, the packagers can't have switched the outer races in the kit. I guess it's possible they threw the wrong input bearing outer race in there, but -X480EW and -X5EW both resolve to the same dimensions.

How does it not fit?
Hopefully the new pics will show this.
1st, old inner race
2nd, new inner race.
3rd , new inner race &bearing for the rear.

The inner races are different. The old inner race has a sharper inner corner while the new has a taper. I wasn't able to find specs on the angle of the rollers themselves so I wasn't sure if there were any other physical differences.

The inner race on the other new bearing (with the larger outer race) has a sharp corner which matches the other inner race.

I also pulled the old output shaft bearing off and its the same as the old input shaft bearing.

So why does the new set have 2 different bearing for the input and output shafts? That's what messed ne up.
 

Attachments

  • 20250827_074325.jpg
    20250827_074325.jpg
    133.1 KB · Views: 12
  • 20250827_074331.jpg
    20250827_074331.jpg
    122 KB · Views: 12
  • 20250827_074412.jpg
    20250827_074412.jpg
    136.1 KB · Views: 12

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top