Rebuilding a M50D-HD

[MADMODDER]

in the 4th pic the inner race has a wider retaining lip that the other two. that lip does not have a primary load on it.

while laying down, are the assembled heights the same?
will the replacement fully press onto the shaft? is the inner radius clearance adequate to clear the seating on the shaft?

on taper bearings the thin side of both races has no side load.

in the 2nd, 4th, and 5th pics the side shown goes into the housing, right? the inner race surface should not touch anything? right???

What do you mean "does not have a primary load"? I get which lip you're taking about but the rest I'm lost on.

Yes, the assembled heights are the same. I have not mic'd it yet (nor have I found the spec measurement they should be) but I have no reason to believe it will not fit.

Correct, they do not touch anything, except the inner races on the shafts.

 

[bobbywalter]

are you sure you are not dealing with superceded numbers or 4.0 vs non 4.0 numbers....or r1 vs r2 shenanigans.


i hate buying shit online. used to go right to the transstar down the street to buy shit..match it on the counter

 

[pjtoledo]

What do you mean "does not have a primary load"? I get which lip you're taking about but the rest I'm lost on.

Yes, the assembled heights are the same. I have not mic'd it yet (nor have I found the spec measurement they should be) but I have no reason to believe it will not fit.

Correct, they do not touch anything, except the inner races on the shafts.

the rolling surfaces take virtually all the load. the end lip is just a guide, the cage keeps the rollers in line and separated.

 

[lowspeedpursuit]

Okay yeah, I'm an idiot, I see it now. IIRC the big outer race on the new 30207X is what I've always seen. I don't know what's going on with the outer race on the original input shaft bearing.
I don't understand how it's possible both those races are supposed to spec the same dimensions when the tapered bearings are exactly the same and the races are so completely different looking.

So is the wider-looking outer race from the last pictures, -X4/80EW, overall larger OD than the skinnier-looking outer race from the first pictures, -X3EW? And the original race is too small for the transmission's front bearing retainer? Or what?

 

[MADMODDER]

are you sure you are not dealing with superceded numbers or 4.0 vs non 4.0 numbers....or r1 vs r2 shenanigans.


i hate buying shit online. used to go right to the transstar down the street to buy shit..match it on the counter

I didn't know this was a concern. I told the store what I have and this is what they're told me I needed.

 

[MADMODDER]

Okay yeah, I'm an idiot, I see it now. IIRC the big outer race on the new 30207X is what I've always seen. I don't know what's going on with the outer race on the original input shaft bearing.
I don't understand how it's possible both those races are supposed to spec the same dimensions when the tapered bearings are exactly the same and the races are so completely different looking.

So is the wider-looking outer race from the last pictures, -X4/80EW, overall larger OD than the skinnier-looking outer race from the first pictures, -X3EW? And the original race is too small for the transmission's front bearing retainer? Or what?

They aren't completely different looking.
Its just, on the old pair, one has a tapered edge on the inner race and the other has a sharp corner. While on the new pair, both inner races have sharp corners.

 

[bobbywalter]

as long as the race installed dimensions are correct and the bearing inner dimension is correct and the race and bearing are matched.

 

[Mechrick]

If you look at the instructions for overhauling the transmission there is a procedure for checking end play. One of the first things you should do when overhauling *any* transmission, whether auto or manual, is put a dial indicator on the output shaft and check it before disassembly.

Having said that, a simple LED caliper like the Horror Fright ones can measure the stack of the old bearing/race to compare to the new.

When selecting shims to set end play for the main and counter shafts one method is to place solder under the bearing race (where the shim is supposed to go) then bolt the trans together, remove and measure the crushed thickness. Some transmissions want positive clearance, some negative (like the ZF-42).

I've had good success inching the bearings on with a small hammer and either a brass or (carefully!) steel punch when I have no access to a press...

 

[MADMODDER]

@Mechrick, as much as I appreciate the input, its a bit late. Lol.

However, I do know to measure end play and thats where I'm at now.

Following this guide (Pic 1)
Line 1 (Dimension B) is 6.54mm (Pic 2)
Line 2 (Dimension A) is 2.94mm (Pic 3)

Line 3 - 3.6mm

Which means I need PN E8TZ-7029-L

First off, why not just make it "L1D1" & "L2D2"?
Why is it "L1D2" and L2D1"? What the hell is even that?